Forum Discussion
Golden_HVAC
Dec 20, 2015Explorer
You will need at least 2 batteries.
You might also want to upgrade the wires from the car engine to the trailer connection. It comes with #12 wire factory installed, but this should be #8 wire with a relay that comes on when the engine is running only, so it will not deplete the car engine battery when parked.
You could use a 30 amp fog lamp relay, it will work fine. A 30 amp or 40 amp automatic reset circuit breaker will protect the wire. If the wire comes directly off the alternator, where voltage is closer to 14.5 volts, it will give the best charge rate while driving. Then to the circuit breaker, then to the relay, and to the trailer connection at the back of the truck.
Also you mention not towing before? Do you know the trick to tightening the weight distribution bars without very much effort? If you hitch up the ball onto the truck, lock it in place, then raise the front of the trailer about 4" - 6" to take weight off the hitch, and then hooking up the WD bars will be really easy, with very little pressure on the bars in the 'raised' position. Lower the jack, and put it away, then there will be plenty of pressure on the WD bars.
For camping sites, look here. FreeCampgrounds.com They offer many free or less than $15 a night camping areas. Many are BLM land out west that are free and very scenic.
If you will be camping in the cold, my suggestion is to buy a Olympic Catalytic heater. I have a 6,000 Btu for my 27' class C and my 30' Bounder and it keeps it warm at 19F outside without running the furnace much. You might want the smaller BTU model. It works on low pressure propane, and I tied mine into the gas line going to my oven.
I would also recommend installing a pair of solar panels.
SunElec.com had a 140 watt solar panel on sale recently for $229 that has a aluminum frame, and is 12 volt nominal - 21 volt open circuit. So you can use a PWM controller that is cheap, I bought a 20 amp model for only $15.
Have fun traveling and camping!
Fred.
You might also want to upgrade the wires from the car engine to the trailer connection. It comes with #12 wire factory installed, but this should be #8 wire with a relay that comes on when the engine is running only, so it will not deplete the car engine battery when parked.
You could use a 30 amp fog lamp relay, it will work fine. A 30 amp or 40 amp automatic reset circuit breaker will protect the wire. If the wire comes directly off the alternator, where voltage is closer to 14.5 volts, it will give the best charge rate while driving. Then to the circuit breaker, then to the relay, and to the trailer connection at the back of the truck.
Also you mention not towing before? Do you know the trick to tightening the weight distribution bars without very much effort? If you hitch up the ball onto the truck, lock it in place, then raise the front of the trailer about 4" - 6" to take weight off the hitch, and then hooking up the WD bars will be really easy, with very little pressure on the bars in the 'raised' position. Lower the jack, and put it away, then there will be plenty of pressure on the WD bars.
For camping sites, look here. FreeCampgrounds.com They offer many free or less than $15 a night camping areas. Many are BLM land out west that are free and very scenic.
If you will be camping in the cold, my suggestion is to buy a Olympic Catalytic heater. I have a 6,000 Btu for my 27' class C and my 30' Bounder and it keeps it warm at 19F outside without running the furnace much. You might want the smaller BTU model. It works on low pressure propane, and I tied mine into the gas line going to my oven.
I would also recommend installing a pair of solar panels.
SunElec.com had a 140 watt solar panel on sale recently for $229 that has a aluminum frame, and is 12 volt nominal - 21 volt open circuit. So you can use a PWM controller that is cheap, I bought a 20 amp model for only $15.
Have fun traveling and camping!
Fred.
About Travel Trailer Group
44,029 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 28, 2025