"Ken, my friction sway control had the Draw-Tite brand, but I think most bars are made the same.
I always made sure my lower adjusting screw was set so the upper handle could be "bottomed out".
Depending on how much sway resistance I wanted and on the condition of the friction pad and slide surface, it might require more torque or less torque to make the handle bottom out.
If I wanted to adjust the bottom screw for more resistance, I first would loosen the upper handle completely and then tighten the bottom screw a quarter turn.
After tightening the bottom screw, more torque was required to bottom out the upper control.
It is possible not all friction sway controls can be adjusted this way.
You said you are interested in comments and suggestions -- this thread has five pages of them.
Ron"
The reason that I thought your sway control was a Husky brand was the instruction sheet link was for a Husky with the same part number as mine.
None the less I loosened the adjusting bolt to the point where I could bottom out the lever arm bolt. This would not work because as the lever arm came around it would hit the adjusting bolt.
The compromise that I reached was to set the rocker fulcrum pressure plate so that with both bolts a little tight the plate was equally spaced to the two threaded nuts. This now gives complete control of the pressure on the friction pads by operating the lever arm. By loosening off on the lever arm to the point where you can just move the bar by hand you can then turn the lever arm in the same number of turns each time to get the adjustment you want. In my case I think it will be 3 or 4 full turns.
Ken