Hello all. My 2013 Ram 3500 has a 6 speed manual transmission and with the Laramie package, the 4x4 system automatically engages the transfer case and hubs at the turn of a dial on the dash. This system is great for not having to get out of the cab to turn hubs and is good because the front axle and driveshaft are completely disengaged in 2 wheel drive. It is not so good for being able to manually manipulate the transfer case and hubs; at least until now! With the manual transmission, I found backing my 16k fiver into my back yard or tight camp spots to be quite hard on the clutch. As a matter of fact I smelled a faint clutch burning smell a couple of times after these parking scenarios. :E The truck in 2 wheel drive was just too high of a ratio requiring many clutch applications. I couldn't use 4 low because of the tight turns required combined with dry and hard ground conditions which could damage the truck.I found the BD Diesel 2 low kit which allows the transfer case to be engaged without engaging the hubs. It is a very simple installation by inserting their wiring harness with relays in the 4WD module under the glove box and then running the wires for the switch to the location of your choice. The installation was about 1 hour with a good portion of the time spent properly tying up the wiring under the dash.If you want normal 4x4 high or low, you simply turn the dial to the selected position as it has always been. To select 2wd low, flip the switch on the 2 low kit, then switch the transfer case to 4x4 low, and VOILA! 2wd low!I had the opportunity to use the system while backing my trailer into my yard after a camping trip last weekend and it works fantastic! MUCH easier on the clutch.I can see where this kit would work well on an automatic equipped truck as well to keep transmission temps down while in difficult backing situations.I have no affiliation with this company; just thought I would pass on my experience of a great modification product.

Those are so nice. I drove around during one summer camping season without my front drive shaft and it ws sure nice using 2 wheel low to park in some state CG's.Unfortunatley they can't make a kit for my truck and manual hubs just aren't worth the price to me.Enjoy!

Congratulations on one of the best upgrades to a RAM 4X4, manual to boot.I found it to be some of the best money spent on my 2001!!! One of my favorite host locations requires backing up a pretty good grade to the blind side. put in two low and back up at a nice pace.

Wow - I have been waiting for something like this.Have not researched it much - do you know if it will work on a 2006 Dodge with a a manual 6 speed?

I've looked at that a few times for my '07 Ram ... so far I am ok with just going to 4 Lo after getting the truck and trailer mostly straight, and then back up the driveway. But much less clutch stress in 4 Lo! :)

I did the SpinTech hub conversion on my 2006 with automatic transmission. Great for exactly the situation you describe. I wrote an article about it on my web site.Www.rvbprecision.com

Installed BD Diesel 2 Low Kit | Good Sam Community

26 Replies

blofgren
Explorer
Oct 12, 2016
Well, we put our fifth wheel into indoor storage yesterday for the winter. It was an extremely tight fit so there was a lot of slow speed maneuvering, tight turns, and back and forth to get the trailer into it's spot. The 2 Low kit worked great, it reduced the clutch effort dramatically and made the job much easier on the truck and myself. It also makes backing into such a tight space safer because of the much slower speeds encountered when releasing the clutch.

Overall I would rate this as being one of the best modifications I've done to any of my trucks!
blofgren
Explorer
Oct 09, 2016
Thanks for all the replies. There's no doubt that one can do a lot of damage in either 2 or 4 low by being silly with the go pedal. I bought this kit for the simple reason of reducing clutch wear while backing my trailer into difficult spots such as my back yard and some camp spots, especially backing uphill. With my truck, this requires NO throttle in any mode, just gently let the clutch out and go. With the truck in normal 2wd, this would require several clutch depressions and releases because the truck moves too quickly for such tight maneuvering. With this kit, you gently let out the clutch once or twice and SLOWLY back into the spot. It works great.

I'll report back with pics if and when I twist any driveline components. ;)
bpounds
Nomad
Oct 08, 2016
On our TV, the issue is not excessive engine torque. It is the 4WD driveline design.

Your front and rear diffs have, er, differentials. The purpose of those is to allow the L/R wheels to turn at different rates. But our transfer cases (in part time 4WD systems in the big three HD trucks) do not have any differential system. The F/R driveshafts are positively locked together with a heavy chain. But F/R wheels are still rotating at different rates, and at least one tire must slip on the ground. If on hard surfaces like pavement, that cannot easily slip.

Your front driveline is much less robust than the rear. It is not designed to handle that kind of low range torque. So you break front drive shaft, or axle shaft, U-joints. Or you break the front output flange on your transfer case.

Most of the pics you find online will be the result of putting too much torque to the ground, especially off-roading stuff. Not really a 4WD on pavement scenario. Those guys are kind of proud of breaking stuff. But don't kid yourself and assume it can't happen to you. That torque that is backdriving your steering wheel and jerking the wheel out of your hands, is more than harsh enough to break things. Hard turns in low range are the worst.
BenK
Explorer
Oct 08, 2016
Here is my 1996 GMT400 Suburban's torque to the drive axles:

7.4L's torque 410 ft/lbs at 1,800 RPM x 2.48 1st gear x 2.72 transfer case x 4.1 diff

410 x 2.48 = 1,016.8 ft/lbs at the tranny output shaft

1,016 x 2.72 = 2,765.7 ft/lbs at the transfer case output shafts

2,765.7 x 4.1 = 11,339.4 ft/lbs at the diff output shafts (front and rear)

4L80E ratios, 1st to 4th (OD)
2.48 1.48 1.00 0.75 2.07

NP241 transfer case ratio
2.72

Diff ratio (both front and rear)
4.1

Enough to break things in a hurry if I put my foot into the throttle
pedal, but I'll not do so because of my decades off roading...seening
folks break things out there in the boonies...heck even out at Pismo
with loosey-goosey sand...

In 2wd you might not get there without the fronts clawing/pulling along
with the rear...so might give it a bit more throttle...to break
something back there...

With today's much higher torques...MUCH MORE EASILY break things and
even faster than ever before...hoping the vehicle computers know that
it is in 4x4 LOW....

Home now and not using an Ipad...so can post better pic's...and laughable
when folks say they will 'watch it'...this and other stuff happens
in a flash...
rjstractor
Nomad
Oct 08, 2016
blofgren wrote:
I really don't see where it would make a difference; would it not be applying the same amount of torque to the rear end components whether or not the front axle is engaged? The Cummins has torque to spare so the rear end will get plenty of torque any time the truck is in low range.

In 2WD all the torque goes to the rear axle, in 4WD it's split front and rear. I really don't think it's a concern, it's just a warning from the truck manufacturers. I suppose it would be pretty easy to break something by stomping on the go pedal while hooked to a heavy load on dry pavement. But most guys have enough sense to not do that. :)
blofgren
Explorer
Oct 08, 2016
rjstractor wrote:
mowermech wrote:
Has anyone ever heard about somebody twisting a driveshaft or rear axle shaft due to the increased torque of being in 2LOW?
I remember an old Chevy pickup that I once had had a warning about that in the Owners Manual.

Every truck I've owned with manual hubs has cautioned against engaging 4 low without turning in the hubs.(even in my old Mazda which didn't have enough torque to twist a coat hanger) Never heard of someone breaking the rear driveshaft in 2 low but I suppose it's a possibility. I would think that using common sense and a gentle touch on the fuel pedal while in 2 low would prevent a drivetrain disaster. :)

I really don't see where it would make a difference; would it not be applying the same amount of torque to the rear end components whether or not the front axle is engaged? The Cummins has torque to spare so the rear end will get plenty of torque any time the truck is in low range.

I did this for years with my 2003 F-350 diesel and didn't have any issues. And yes, I am and will continue to be very gentle when using this feature; the Cummins doesn't even need any throttle when backing trailers up, just some gentle releases of the clutch.
BenK
Explorer
Oct 08, 2016
Personally have seen/helped buddies and strangers out there with broken/twisted drive shafts and axles

No longer offer to pull them out, offer to give them ride out till they get cell coverage...seen one to many who blamed someone for bending their bumper after they helped them...

One buddy carries two spare axles...yes, he has a full floater

Search "4x4 broken twisted drive shaft axle"

Here Is one from a quick search...

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/muddevils/media/driveshafttwist001.jpg.html
bpounds
Nomad
Oct 08, 2016
Yes, I've definitely heard of people twisting off U-joint yokes using 4WD on pavement. Always with oversized tires, and the off-road crowd.

You probably won't do that, but the fact remains that it is hard on the driveline components every time you do it. Whether you twist off a yoke or not, you are stressing the U-joints.

GM is the weakest of the front wheel drive trucks, but a friend of mine drove his Silverado 2500 home from vacation, about 300 miles, and did not notice he was in 4WD the entire time. If any damage was done he never found it. Highway miles, with few tight turns, is probably the least damaging. Manuevering around backing a trailer might be the worst. So it is not an absolute no-no, but you want to avoid it.
rjstractor
Nomad
Oct 08, 2016
mowermech wrote:
Has anyone ever heard about somebody twisting a driveshaft or rear axle shaft due to the increased torque of being in 2LOW?
I remember an old Chevy pickup that I once had had a warning about that in the Owners Manual.

Every truck I've owned with manual hubs has cautioned against engaging 4 low without turning in the hubs.(even in my old Mazda which didn't have enough torque to twist a coat hanger) Never heard of someone breaking the rear driveshaft in 2 low but I suppose it's a possibility. I would think that using common sense and a gentle touch on the fuel pedal while in 2 low would prevent a drivetrain disaster. :)
Grit_dog
Navigator II
Oct 08, 2016
ScottG wrote:
Flashman wrote:
Wow - I have been waiting for something like this.

Have not researched it much - do you know if it will work on a 2006 Dodge with a a manual 6 speed?

Nope, your in the same boat as me.
The only way you can do it is to replace your hubs with manual locking units which is pricey.

And with 150k trouble free good fuel mileage miles on my 07, I wouldn't even consider the $2k it takes to put lock out hubs on it. Sometimes simpler is better.