My Eagle Cap 1160 filon has let go under the bunk. But here's the interesting part - I haven't camped in the rain in years, no signs of leaks, and it's fully garaged 24x7.Input I'm looking for - Why would it have delam'd?and..What would you do to re-glue it? I'm thinking of drilling a couple small holes, shooting it full of glue, then making a reinforced plywood piece that I'll jack up with a floor jack to pinch the filon while the glue sets. Here's the only pic I could find showing the condition and where I keep it, inside a purpose-built garage---

I don’t know if you intended to post two pictures or not. In any case, are you sure it’s delaminates? I have some areas that are not flat anymore. I don’t have a picture handy, but the best way to describe it is irregular with bumps ... I guess. Host said it’s nothing to concern myself with, and there haven’t been any more changes for years.

jimh425 wrote:I don’t know if you intended to post two pictures or not. In any case, are you sure it’s delaminates? I have some areas that are not flat anymore. I don’t have a picture handy, but the best way to describe it is irregular with bumps ... I guess. Host said it’s nothing to concern myself with, and there haven’t been any more changes for years.Sorry, I should have clarified - the entire filon under the bunk has separated. When you poke it with your finger it's a good inch of space in there.

That would work, assuming you can locate structure?If the whole lid is coming down possibly use something to help it say up.Maybe some non-insert trim across full width, or 2?https://pantherrvproducts.com/ap-products-021-87201-8-flat-trim-molding-white-8-ft

Best guess for delamination is poor adhesion, due to contaminated surface, or bad glue procedure /conditions. Add flex and off it came. A section of one of the carbon fiber hulls delaminated on my trimaran. I talked to a highly skilled fiberglass, independent repair person (boat wright / ship wright) who solved my problem. Ask around your area if they have time to do some creative work. Maybe they could seal it similar to vacuum bagging and see whether it would hold a vacuum. They are very creative. Might need to remove some trim and seal the underlying edges to get the vacuum needed. If so then, pull in low vicosity, slow cure epoxy from one end and out the other. Use mold release (aka wax) to prevent epoxy from sticking on outside visible surfaces. Or creative use of sealing tape.

Very seriously doubt it was ever glued filon usually isnt glued. Its why a lot of people see a wrinkle and think its delam.Age heat and gravity is why it appears to be sagging.they used it there so the overhang can flex and not cause stress cracks

Interesting delam issue - revised 6-24, more pics

38 Replies

AnEv942
Nomad
Aug 14, 2019
ah thanks! AP Products 021-39201. Looked earlier kept getting marine stuff. Must slip over ends of flat rail
wnjj
Explorer II
Aug 14, 2019
AnEv942 wrote:
Boatycall wrote:
.. with endcaps and a couple rolls of Dicor Butyl seal tape. I have the drawings from Eagle cap on the stud/cross brace spacing, so now to locate those and put the aluminum strips in.

Curious where you found end caps and what they look like.

How about these? https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0911-1527-White-Pack/dp/B00T36NMWK/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=27AA8GS19GK06SYRD449

They might be a bit too wide though.
AnEv942
Nomad
Aug 14, 2019
Boatycall wrote:
.. with endcaps and a couple rolls of Dicor Butyl seal tape. I have the drawings from Eagle cap on the stud/cross brace spacing, so now to locate those and put the aluminum strips in.

Curious where you found end caps and what they look like.
egarant
Explorer III
Aug 13, 2019
I posted here a few years back about the very same problem I had with my 2013 Eagle Cap single slide 950.

The camper at the time was still under warranty so it had to go back to the factory in Yakima, WA where they completely removed the front cap and replaced it with another one.

I've had other major out of warranty work done at the factory and they do great work at a reasonable price. I would not trust anyone else to work on it.

PM me if you have any further questions.

Mr. E
JTLance
Explorer
Aug 12, 2019
I have to say, getting rid of that heki vs a smaller Fantastic Vent looks like a wise decision....but one required at the time the camper is being made...

How is the project going?
Boatycall
Explorer
Jun 30, 2019
I have found the actual source of the leak and fixed it. Sorry, no pics yet, I do have a couple, just taking a break from working on the thing all day today.

So one of the three hinges on the vent had cracked off and was no longer attached to the vent frame, but was still attached to the plexiglass. It lifted off and created a nice area through which water could easily get in.

It's my guess it cracked due to several reasons--
* Poor design, thin plastic hinge on the windward/leading edge.
* Likely a strong headwind on the highway over stressed it and busted it, no scratches or signs of a tree branch impact.
* Age - my TC is a 2012, the poor design had a very thin amount of plastic actually holding the whole thing together.

The repair involved taking what was left of the hinge, which still had a fair amount of plastic left, drilling 3 holes in it, and screwing it into the TC roof, then adding epoxy that to the original vent frame. It is now far stronger than the original way they had it. Next, to reinforce the remaining hinges, drilled a couple holes, ran screws into them... then two entire tubes of dicor to re-seal the entire vent and rubber roof to front cap seam, and liberally covering the new screw heads.

I bought 5 of those aluminum strips AnEv942 posted, with endcaps and a couple rolls of Dicor Butyl seal tape. I have the drawings from Eagle cap on the stud/cross brace spacing, so now to locate those and put the aluminum strips in.
d3500ram
Explorer III
Jun 29, 2019
Boatycall wrote:
....

I, Jim (aka Boatycall), now do the TC walk of shame.... I should have caught that sooner. I am no longer worthy of being on this forum... :o

I can hear ya' and appreciate the tongue-in-cheek sarcasm...:o Been there, done that on things we would do differently given a second chance (on campers too!)

Regardless of ineptness or ignorance, (and not saying that you or others are either one) but these RV's take maintenance. One could be the most dedicated, meticulous and focused maintainer and something still happens. I would spend almost a full weekend almost every year inspecting, cleaning, removing-bad & replacing-with-new caulk and sealant. I religiously would sweep the roof after every snowstorm and was regularly on the roof inspecting. Good thing too as I was able to catch a problem early and correct it before it got worse. It got to the point where having a camper was not worth the time to keep it up.

It happens to the best of us, Jim. Hopefully others can live (and prevent) vicariously through your tale.
jimh406
Explorer III
Jun 29, 2019
The first step is admitting you have a problem, right? :D. I say you get a pass because my name is Jim, too. Well, and you never know when I might develop a leak. ;)
Boatycall
Explorer
Jun 29, 2019
billyray50 wrote:
Sounds like your not far from ALP. Did Brad give you an option to bring it to factory and they could look at it and maybe fix it for you?

Yes... I may take him up on it. He said $3-$4k.

But...

Y'all, I have a confession...

I DID have a leak. I found it this evening, and the source - the Heki vent had several spots that showed signs of Dicor delam and water penetration, and the few inches of rubber roofing between it and the top front cap had bubbled. Looks to be recent, and I did camp in a downpour over Memorial weekend.

I, Jim (aka Boatycall), now do the TC walk of shame.... I should have caught that sooner. I am no longer worthy of being on this forum... :o
billyray50
Explorer
Jun 29, 2019
Sounds like your not far from ALP. Did Brad give you an option to bring it to factory and they could look at it and maybe fix it for you?