Forum Discussion
travelnutz
Apr 15, 2015Explorer II
Before you buy any LED replacements etc, you ned to learn or know the important real details, very easy to quick learn, of bulb and actual light output, not rocket science, such as:
Light temperature, meaning the color as seen by the human eye. The measurement is expressed in kelvin or K. 2700K-3000K is warm white or soft white which is more desireable for living rooms/bedrooms/bathrooms/etc where bright stark white light like office "cool white" 4100K flourescent bulb lighting generally used wouldn't be very pleasant. 2700K has more of a yellowish/orangeish light look than 3000K and appears slightly brighter. Which K level is up to the person's wants or desire. K level is K level regardless of 12V DC or 110 AC bulb used.
Next step in going brighter white than 4100K is approx 5000K and is generally espressed as "daylight" or "bright white" light. Too shrill for livingrooms or bedrooms for sure but some like one or two of these type in the kitchen where food is prepared as colors appear much truer. Either the 2700L, 3000K, or 5000K will work for the patio. Your choice! We use one 3000K and one 5000K as we have 2 fixtures, each having their own switches. Give us the best of both bulb attributes as and when wanted. Actually have the same mixture in the kitchen sink/range area also in the dual bulb fixture and it's gives awesome lighting.
Next is the "lumens" of actual light the bulb puts out. 200 lumens vs 400 lumens vs 500 lumens etc for the 12V bulb. Think of it as the difference between what you see when using a 40W vs a 60W vs a 75W 110 AC bulb in the same fixture.
More lumens output means more watts or amps consumed but don't be misled as LED bulbs use only 1/6 to 1/10 of the actual watts or amps that the same light output incandescent bulbs do and they last 15 to 25 times as long before failure. Also do not lower in lumen output or color with aging during use like CFL flourescent (curlyque) bulbs do and some incandescents.
Personally, didn't like the light output from the flat board type LED replacements as the light given was not spread evenly like the incandescent bulb they replace. Therefore went to ALL round cylinder type and they are fabulous with very well dispersed light in all directions.
Best I've found by far and most price effective are from LEDLight.com on the Internet. I'll look up the link and post it and the actual page with the product no. and cost breakdowns per quanity in the next post in a couple minutes as it's all on one of my other puters here at home. I'd posted the info in another thread on this forum about a week ago with lots of details given.
Light temperature, meaning the color as seen by the human eye. The measurement is expressed in kelvin or K. 2700K-3000K is warm white or soft white which is more desireable for living rooms/bedrooms/bathrooms/etc where bright stark white light like office "cool white" 4100K flourescent bulb lighting generally used wouldn't be very pleasant. 2700K has more of a yellowish/orangeish light look than 3000K and appears slightly brighter. Which K level is up to the person's wants or desire. K level is K level regardless of 12V DC or 110 AC bulb used.
Next step in going brighter white than 4100K is approx 5000K and is generally espressed as "daylight" or "bright white" light. Too shrill for livingrooms or bedrooms for sure but some like one or two of these type in the kitchen where food is prepared as colors appear much truer. Either the 2700L, 3000K, or 5000K will work for the patio. Your choice! We use one 3000K and one 5000K as we have 2 fixtures, each having their own switches. Give us the best of both bulb attributes as and when wanted. Actually have the same mixture in the kitchen sink/range area also in the dual bulb fixture and it's gives awesome lighting.
Next is the "lumens" of actual light the bulb puts out. 200 lumens vs 400 lumens vs 500 lumens etc for the 12V bulb. Think of it as the difference between what you see when using a 40W vs a 60W vs a 75W 110 AC bulb in the same fixture.
More lumens output means more watts or amps consumed but don't be misled as LED bulbs use only 1/6 to 1/10 of the actual watts or amps that the same light output incandescent bulbs do and they last 15 to 25 times as long before failure. Also do not lower in lumen output or color with aging during use like CFL flourescent (curlyque) bulbs do and some incandescents.
Personally, didn't like the light output from the flat board type LED replacements as the light given was not spread evenly like the incandescent bulb they replace. Therefore went to ALL round cylinder type and they are fabulous with very well dispersed light in all directions.
Best I've found by far and most price effective are from LEDLight.com on the Internet. I'll look up the link and post it and the actual page with the product no. and cost breakdowns per quanity in the next post in a couple minutes as it's all on one of my other puters here at home. I'd posted the info in another thread on this forum about a week ago with lots of details given.
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