Leveling your TT

AirForceAngler wrote:

GaryWT wrote:
We level based on the floor just at the door so I don't have to go in and out a dozen times. We leave the drives side high as it goes down when the slides go out.

Are you putting your stabilizers down before you put the slides out?

Yes, we level side to side, front to back, put down the corner jacks before opening the slides. The slides are big. Some of it might have to do with the corner jacks sinking into the ground, they are usually on lynx levelers. The other 2 corner jack come off the ground when this happens.

samsontdog wrote:
I start out with a level in the freezer than when the TT is level I stick the stick on level on the each side near the front and one on each side in the front of the TT

Yup, it's very important for the fridge to be level.

I level by two points and I don't really obsess about the details... I'm never in the same spot more than a few nights.

I have a bubble on my tongue jack and I use my door, which is roughly in the center (length wise) of the tt. I adjust the tongue so the door just barely closes by itself, rather than trying to swing open (nose too low) or swing out (side to side is off)

If the site is off level by a lot, I'll back onto leveling blocks. If it's close, I use a bottle jack under the frame near where the axle support is.

Once level is close enough (or I've spent more than a few minutes at it), I crank down the stabilizers and call it good.

GaryWT wrote:
We level based on the floor just at the door so I don't have to go in and out a dozen times. We leave the drives side high as it goes down when the slides go out.

Are you putting your stabilizers down before you put the slides out?

We level based on the floor just at the door so I don't have to go in and out a dozen times. We leave the drives side high as it goes down when the slides go out.

On first camping trip with TT, I took a zillion "readings" from level on floor, counters, tongue, etc. (yes, all were different) - opened/closed cabinets, doors, and fridge door to see how resistant/assisted swing was and got it as level as far as I could.

With it now level, I then installed a side to side level on front of TT - in view from driver's seat while backing in - for side to side and then installed a small level on portion of tongue that runs front to back. Both these levels are now "calibrated" to this "level of levelness."

Now, when setting up, I get it level side to side while backing in with the level attached to the front of the TT -- use beveled 2x8's and/or Lynx Levelers to achieve levelness. Then, after chocking TT wheels and unhitching, I get it level front to back with electric tongue jack using level on tongue is easily viewable from tongue jack.

Q. Does a RV refrigerator have to be level on gas and electric.
A. YES - this is one of the most important aspects of RVing and one that is very misunderstood. An RV refrigerator works by evaporating ammonia and draining it back down coils. Regardless of whether you're using propane or electricity the refer MUST be level to ensure proper draining of the ammonia. An off-level refer can get a blockage that will cause permanent damage

Side to side, I look for objects in the back ground that are straight up and down, like the edge of a building. I then try to eyeball the side of the camper with that straight edge. After a while, You just get a good feel for what's level. A simple carpenters level across the tongue is another alternative.

Level front to back, just open the door. If it swings forward, the front is too low. If it swings back, the back is too low. Once the door no longer swings, it's level.

Forget about attempting to level based on the floor. They are not always flat. My last camper had a slightly bowed arched floor, that drove me crazy. I learned to level by using the door swinging. The outside door frame should always be straight and perpendicular to camper. If you get the door frame straight up and down (front-back) and if you get it straight up (side to side), then that's the best you can do. Forget leveling on the floor.

About those sensors on your tanks. They are a waste of effort. Ignore them and learn by practical experience and just keeping a close watch on your usage.

Level the freezer, that's what counts in leveling. The rest will vary but should be close. If you don't level the frig/freezer then expect a short life out of the refrigerator.

It isn't as bad as it used to be but it is still very important.

Level is a funny thing. I didn't think it mattered much when we started camping, but now I can sense it if it's off too far. I leveled the frig, countertop, bathtub, etc. and nothing was in syc, but all were close, so I chose the frig as the bench mark, leveled to that, then once I got it right on with my digital level, went outside and installed the bubbles on the front corner of the trailer. Now when we pull in to a site, I know instantly how many Lynx blocks I'll need side to side, then crank to the bubble after unhitching for front to back.