I not looking to cause a "truck war", but I could really use some honest advice on a new tow vehicle.We have 34' 5th wheel(est weight of 12,300#)I currently have a 2009 F250 Powerstroke that is giving me some problems and I am considering replacing. I had planned to stick with the new 2015 Ford's (always been a FORD guy before), but just not trusting FORD's HPpumps, rear-end sag, mpg, etc.etc. So I am now in "unknown territory" and the 2015 GMC 2500 and 2015 RAM 2500 are at the top of my list. I have tried looking at reviews, but find that each one that picks the GMC, there's another that picks the RAM.Option A is a 2015 RAM 2500 SRW 4x4 Longhorn Megacab (for kids) with the Cummins & the 6speed Auto Trans (not sure if i can get the Aisin Trans package), and without the Mopar hitch.... (I don't know anything on this hitch, other than if I get the 5thwheel pacakge, I have to use Mopar hitch)-Not sure I need the "air suspension" option- I know I need 52" from the cab to the pin box for the 5'ers turning clearance, and I haven't measured the distance on the Ram, but the bed is 6'4".Option B is the 2015 GMC SRW 4x4 Crew Cab, with the Duramax and Allison trans.... GMC does not offer a 5thwheel package, so thats not a concern/option to add. The "standard / short bed" should be fine and no concern on turning clearance as it is the same as the current Ford bed.Pricewise, the 2 are close in cost (but the local GMC dealer will give free oil changes for life).With all of you veterans & experienced 5'ers out there, I am hoping to get some honest, quality feedback as to which truck will give me and my family the best performance (tow capability {up hill and down hill}, mpg, braking, suspension, durability, ride (comfort/noise), longevity and anything else.Thank you!

I like Ram, the next guy will like GM, the next will like Ford. All are more than capable for your requirements, the only thing left to do is take them all out for a spin and see which one you like the best. Basically all there is to worry about is personal preference of feel, looks, comfort and who can give you the best deal.

What ever brand you choose skip 2500 series and go for 3500 series. The 2500's are too limiting when talking fifth wheels.

Drive both and buy the one you like. I am a Chevy guy but I would strongly look at the Dodge if I were buying a new truck. Both are going to pull your trailer really well. I have concerns over the longevity of the coils on the back of the Dodge with regards to fatigue and stability but I have not done any research to verify those concerns. Dodge's (sorry RAM's) build quality seemed to suffer during the mid 2000s with paper thin sheet metal, and poor quality interior finishes. However they seemed to have REALLY stepped up their game recently.I personally don't care for the new Ford diesels. I know way to many people who have had major problems (6.0 anyone?).There is a ton of debate on IFS vs Solid axle on the 4x4s. I have 172k hard miles on my IFS (sand dunes, 4x4 trails, towing motorhomes out of sand and snow, my wife unintentionally catching air at pismo on the Whoops etc.) and I have never had a single issue. In fact I just bought new tires and took it in for an alignment (it had been 60k ish miles of the above use) since the last one and my alignment was still within spec. I have had Dodges and Fords as work trucks and they all needed ball joints, track bars, and tie rod ends much more frequently.Bottom line, to each their own. I have only ever owned Chevys and feel no need to change because they have always exceeded my expectations. However RAM builds a great truck now too. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

I agree with the advice to go directly to a minimum 350 series. Brand really doesn't matter, they're all good.

donn0128 wrote:What ever brand you choose skip 2500 series and go for 3500 series. The 2500's are too limiting when talking fifth wheels.X2 to this for sure, if the 5er will weigh in at 12,300# get the 3500, I am a Ram man, but the DMax is a good rig also.

Looking for Advice on a new Tow Vehicle | Good Sam Community

Targa
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
I like Ram, the next guy will like GM, the next will like Ford. All are more than capable for your requirements, the only thing left to do is take them all out for a spin and see which one you like the best. Basically all there is to worry about is personal preference of feel, looks, comfort and who can give you the best deal.
donn0128
Explorer II
Sep 23, 2014
What ever brand you choose skip 2500 series and go for 3500 series. The 2500's are too limiting when talking fifth wheels.
Brisk
Explorer II
Sep 23, 2014
Drive both and buy the one you like. I am a Chevy guy but I would strongly look at the Dodge if I were buying a new truck. Both are going to pull your trailer really well. I have concerns over the longevity of the coils on the back of the Dodge with regards to fatigue and stability but I have not done any research to verify those concerns. Dodge's (sorry RAM's) build quality seemed to suffer during the mid 2000s with paper thin sheet metal, and poor quality interior finishes. However they seemed to have REALLY stepped up their game recently.

I personally don't care for the new Ford diesels. I know way to many people who have had major problems (6.0 anyone?).

There is a ton of debate on IFS vs Solid axle on the 4x4s. I have 172k hard miles on my IFS (sand dunes, 4x4 trails, towing motorhomes out of sand and snow, my wife unintentionally catching air at pismo on the Whoops etc.) and I have never had a single issue. In fact I just bought new tires and took it in for an alignment (it had been 60k ish miles of the above use) since the last one and my alignment was still within spec. I have had Dodges and Fords as work trucks and they all needed ball joints, track bars, and tie rod ends much more frequently.

Bottom line, to each their own. I have only ever owned Chevys and feel no need to change because they have always exceeded my expectations. However RAM builds a great truck now too. I don't think you can go wrong either way.
fla-gypsy
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
I agree with the advice to go directly to a minimum 350 series. Brand really doesn't matter, they're all good.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Sep 23, 2014
donn0128 wrote:
What ever brand you choose skip 2500 series and go for 3500 series. The 2500's are too limiting when talking fifth wheels.

X2 to this for sure, if the 5er will weigh in at 12,300# get the 3500, I am a Ram man, but the DMax is a good rig also.
intheburbs
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
The Megacab is a feature unique to Dodge. For me, that could be a possible tipping point. If I ever move away from Suburbans, the Megacab is on my short list.
IdaD
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
I tend to think you're better off with a solid front axle on a HD truck if you ever take it off road, but if you're just using it as a tow vehicle and won't ever stray far from pavement you may actually be better off with IFS. If you do plan on driving the truck in rougher terrain there are some things you can do on the GM front ends to beef them up, but you'll still have the inherent limitations that go along with IFS in rough terrain.
ib516
Explorer II
Sep 23, 2014
Do you like Coke or Pepsi? Really they are both great trucks with their own strengths and weaknesses.

Also, don't overlook the 6.4L Hemi option on the Ram. I pull a 12,000# 37' 5er with mine and it does a great job - albeit using more fuel than a diesel would. The 6.4L Hemi is 410hp.

If you go diesel, you have to go a 3500 to get the Aisin trans and the highest output Cummins (385hp/865tq). The 3500 has more payload, higher axle weight ratings, and rear leaf springs. The 2500 has coil springs in the rear, and the 6.7L Cummins in the 2500 is 370hp/800tq.

Just some info for clarification....I highly recommend the factory 5th wheel prep if you go with the RAM. It adds a 7 pin connector in the bed (and there's still one on the bumper), and it does not require you to use a Mopar hitch. You can buy a "Picture frame adapter" and use your old hitch, or any 5th wheel hitch. Here's mine.
lenr
Explorer III
Sep 23, 2014
I sympathize with the OP; I don’t know what I would do if my Ford let me down. At 44,000 mi, our F-350 SRW CCSB 6.7 has been perfect (knock wood) with excellent mileage for a modern emissions truck.

A few additional thoughts:
1) I used the “picture frame” adapter and it put the nose of our trailer 2 ½” too high with no adjustment available. Had to change to the elite hitch.
2) If the OP is concerned about Ford fuel mileage based on his 6.4 diesel, that engine was TERRIBLE on fuel. That is completely fixed with the 6.7 engine which gets as good a mileage as any and weighs more (stronger, more steel) than some.
3) All three brands use a HP fuel pump made by Bosch. All are susceptible to pump problems with anything having low lubricity. Best way to avoid problems is to buy fuel from high volume locations and to use additives that add lubricity. Ford has made the news because they sell the most and seem to be a little prickly at denying warranty if there is any evidence of water (no lubricity). The actual failure rate is 6 in 10,000 and part of those are covered by Ford.
4) As stated by others an F-350 would solve the sagging problem, while coming with heavier axle internals, and auxiliary spring, an 4” spacer block (which can be put on a 250 to solve sagging problems), and a VIN that lets one tow more weight legally.
spud1957
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
lenr wrote:
I sympathize with the OP; I don’t know what I would do if my Ford let me down. At 44,000 mi, our F-350 SRW CCSB 6.7 has been perfect (knock wood) with excellent mileage for a modern emissions truck.

A few additional thoughts:
1) I used the “picture frame” adapter and it put the nose of our trailer 2 ½” too high with no adjustment available. Had to change to the elite hitch.
2) If the OP is concerned about Ford fuel mileage based on his 6.4 diesel, that engine was TERRIBLE on fuel. That is completely fixed with the 6.7 engine which gets as good a mileage as any and weighs more (stronger, more steel) than some.
3) All three brands use a HP fuel pump made by Bosch. All are susceptible to pump problems with anything having low lubricity. Best way to avoid problems is to buy fuel from high volume locations and to use additives that add lubricity. Ford has made the news because they sell the most and seem to be a little prickly at denying warranty if there is any evidence of water (no lubricity). The actual failure rate is 6 in 10,000 and part of those are covered by Ford.
4) As stated by others an F-350 would solve the sagging problem, while coming with heavier axle internals, and auxiliary spring, an 4” spacer block (which can be put on a 250 to solve sagging problems), and a VIN that lets one tow more weight legally.

All great points but to clarify point #4, the F350 and F250 have the same "axle internals". The aux spring is standard on the F350 and 4" blocks are the only physical differences between the two