Matching TT to a V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Some things to consider:

1) Be careful with adding "permanent" items such as cooking utensils, pots and pans, bedding, cleaning fluids, outdoor chairs, electronics, decorations, etc. When I traded in my previous TT last summer and cleaned it out, I could not believe how much stuff (and weight) I had added to the towing combination over the years. Since my current TT is larger and heavier, I only transferred less than half of this stuff to the new one, cutting down weight.

2) Sticking to shorter trips in flatter terrain helps with pulling and stopping the TT. I'm not sure if you have that option, depending on where you live in WA.

3) If you go to CGs without utilities, sometimes they have water sources at locations around the property, so you can fill up water when you get there (you may need water container(s) and a funnel.

4) Weight balance in shorter TTs are really influenced by where you add your loadings. Keep close to the axles and monitor your tongue weight closely.

Speedogomer wrote:
Just for comparison... my door sticker shipped weight, was 250 lbs LESS than the brochure listed weight.

Just reinforces that the brochure weights are not always accurate...

And tends to deflate the myth that brochure weights are always set artificially low for marketing purposes.

Ron

Just for comparison... my door sticker shipped weight, was 250 lbs LESS than the brochure listed weight.

Just reinforces that the brochure weights are not always accurate...

I really don't think a couple of feet on the trailer would make much difference. My truck is only about 17' long.

Thank you all very much for the comments. I just came across a 2012 Shadow Cruiser S195WBS that is made by the same company that makes the Fun Finder. The specs are:
Dry weight 3,555
Hitch 480
Length 21'8".

I'm comfortable with the weight, but the length is making me a little nervous. I'm feeling like I should stay 20ft or less......just because of the length of my Jeep (15.8ft).

LthornM wrote:
I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6 with factory installed tow package. It has a 3.6L engine with 8 speed auto transmission. 4X4
Here are all of the numbers I could find on the vehicle stickers and manual.
Tow rated to 6,200lbs
GVWR 6,500
GAWR Front 3200 Back 3700
Max trailer tongue weight 620 lbs
The Jeep website says max payload 1,320
Overall length of vehicle is 190 inches.

I am looking at a Fun Finder F-189FBS Length 18'9", dry weight 3155, hitch weight 290.



Also a Fun Finder S-195WBS Length 21"8", dry 3555, hitch 480.

I will use an equalizer hitch/sway bar.
Do these choices seem reasonable/safe? We will generally have 2 average size adults and an 80lb dog. Thanks!

I think I have a good comparison for you. I have a 2014 RAM 1500 with Pentastar V6 engine, 8 speed, and 3.21 rear end. I do use a Husky WDH and Sway Control. Our 22' Minnie Winnie TT weighs 3800# dry and the yellow sticker says not to add more than 2960# of cargo.
Since we don't haul water and run with empty holding tanks, I doubt that we added more than 600# to it at the outside.

We completed a 900 mile trip about a month ago and it pulled great at 65 mph. I typically limit the transmission to 5th or 6th gear depending on the terrain. Of course, I use tow/haul mode 100% and cruse control most of the time. I do not use cruse on long steep hills but just take it easy.

What about wheelbase? Also stopping power? Just saying.

Campfire Time wrote:
---I agree, most of us don't load the trailer to its GVWR. However if you use GVWR in your calculations and you don't load your trailer to its max, you have some wiggle room.

The governing factor for the OP's choice of trailer is likely to be tongue weight.

Are you saying the OP should base his decision on assuming the loaded tongue weight will be 15% of the trailer's GVWR?

Does the trailer's cargo carrying capacity enter into your recommendation,
or do you assume the trailer will be loaded to its GVWR regardless of CCC?

Ron

The smaller one should be fine.

The bigger one is probably borderline once you are loaded but if you are concerned, play with where you place stuff and you should be able to keep her in line (just make sure you have a decent amount of weight on the tounge).

Ron Gratz wrote:
IMO, you can ignore the trailers GVWR, unless you actually plan to load it to that weight. Most people do not.

I agree -- so why do you start by telling them to begin with the trailer's GVWR and "work backwards"?
You came to a reasonable estimate by starting with the "dry weight" and working forward.

If the trailer's loaded weight is, say, 5000# and the tongue weight percentage is 13%, the loaded TW will be about 650# versus the "Max trailer tongue weight" of 620#.

Ron

As you said, IMO. But why would you push the numbers and start from the fictional dry weight number, or the slightly more accurate shipped weight? I agree, most of us don't load the trailer to its GVWR. However if you use GVWR in your calculations and you don't load your trailer to its max, you have some wiggle room.

And why wouldn't anyone want some room to grow? Because you know for a fact, the majority of people are going to start taking more "stuff" once they have that new trailer and use it a few times. This is especially true with growing families.

By using dry weight in calculations too many people end up buying a bigger trailer than they should because the believe they will "pack light" only to turn around shortly after and have to by a new TV because they pushed the capacities too close.