Forum Discussion

dvitale300's avatar
dvitale300
Explorer
Mar 23, 2016

Need help - problem with water heater

Hi there,

We're going on a trip on Thursday and I'm experiencing a problem with our water heater. It is an Atwood model, 6 gal gas. We have a 2015 Starcraft 28BHS.

The heater worked fine last week. I noticed that there was some water leakage below the unit - and I realized tonight that I hadn't used plumbers tape when I re-attached the drain plug after de-winterization - which is now fixed.

When I turn the water heater on, I hear the click, click, click, and then the pilot fires and I can see a nice blue flame (like normal). The problem is that the clicking continues and then stops (after about 8 seconds), and the flame goes out. I get the failure warning light on the interior panel. This cycle occurs again about 2 more times, and then stops.

I unplugged the spade connectors (about 4 of them) and they were wet. I've left them unplugged to dry out - but am not sure if this is my issue. Any thoughts? help? I checked the flow of propane into the unit and it is just fine.

thanks - david
  • dvitale300's avatar
    dvitale300
    Explorer
    Mar 30, 2016
    Hi everyone, all is OK. After all of the contacts and board dried out we had 5 day of great working hot water.

    Thanks for everything ya'll had re input.

    david
  • LVJJJ's avatar
    LVJJJ
    Explorer
    Mar 27, 2016
    First, it's an Atwood so not working right is normal. (Their furnaces sound like an F-18 taking off from an aircraft carrier). This from 27 years of TT experience.

    The last trailer I had had a replacement Atwood HWT that kept going out, turns out that the curved burner tube was too short and didn't go into the unit far enough. Real poor quality product. Replace with a Suburban.
  • Mark_and_Linda's avatar
    Mark_and_Linda
    Explorer
    Mar 24, 2016
    Something many forget about is screens on the outside vents to keep out the little bugs that crawl in and build mud homes.

    Any follow up on your problem...does it work on electric?
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Mar 23, 2016
    Use either Caig Deoxit D5 or contact cleaner on the spade connectors and tabs on the circuit board. If you got water all over the circuit board, apply isopropyl alcohol and blow dry. Anytime you introduce water around connections or circuit boards, you are starting the chain of oxidation. Also check for positive connection between flame sensor and circuit board. The operation of this is in millivolts so it doesn't take much to interrupt the signal.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Mar 23, 2016
    ksg5000 wrote:
    In my older Atwood you would just look inside the tube and see if the wires are sitting in the blue flame - you can re-position them by removing the spark assembly (easy as removing one or two screws) and slightly bending them. You might consider cleaning the wires with emery board while you have access to spark assembly.


    THIS ^^^^^^^
    Circuit board has to get signal flame is lit....signal is generated by flame and sent back via spark electrode assembly. Needs to be engulfed in flame for that to happen.




    And the spade connectors being wet???

    Drain plug is below all connections.

    Is your Temp/Press Relief Valve 'weeping' (dripping down on connections)?

    If weeping you have lost your 'air pocket' which is there by design.
    Water swells when heated. IF no air pocket at top of tank pressure increases because water can not be compressed---air can that is why it is there by design in our small closed loop RV water system.

    Open Relief valve with water turned OFF and tank cool
    Let it snap close when water stops running out
    Air pocket will remain when you turn water back on....hot water outlet has a dip tube that is curved down so water flows out below top of tank----air pocket.
  • ksg5000's avatar
    ksg5000
    Explorer
    Mar 23, 2016
    In my older Atwood you would just look inside the tube and see if the wires are sitting in the blue flame - you can re-position them by removing the spark assembly (easy as removing one or two screws) and slightly bending them. You might consider cleaning the wires with emery board while you have access to spark assembly.
  • dvitale300's avatar
    dvitale300
    Explorer
    Mar 23, 2016
    Thanks - update. After about 30 minutes I plugged everything back in and it heated up just fine for about 15 minutes, then stopped. Same problem now. I will unplugged all of the connections and will let them dry out overnight.

    Are there instructions somewhere on how to clean and adjust the ignitor/flame sensor? As well as cleaning the connector for the ignitor on the sensor board (or is that just making sure the splade connections are clean?

    thanks - I'm a History Teacher and not very mechanically inclined ;o)

    david
  • enblethen's avatar
    enblethen
    Nomad
    Mar 23, 2016
    There is no pilot on a DSI water heater.
    The burner is coming on, but the flame sensor does not see it.
    Clean and adjust the ignitor/flame sensor.
    Clean connector for the ignitor on the circuit board.
    Inspect the porcelain around the ignitor for cracks.
    Have circuit board tested. If bad replace with Dinosaur Electronic version.
    Yes, it could be low propane pressure issue.
  • bobndot's avatar
    bobndot
    Explorer II
    Mar 23, 2016
    After they sit for a time, they can sometimes do that. Light the stove for a minute to make sure you are getting gas flow.
    Leaving one burner on, while looking at the flame, try to fire up the WH again .
    The stove burner flame should remain the same. If the flame dies down, I would suspect a low pressure problem at the regulator on the propane tank.


    here is more info for you.

    https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24529271.cfm

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