New 2016 F350 (Follow-Up Thread)

lenr wrote:
These comments are based on 4 yr. ownership of an F-350 CCSB SRW 6.7: The B&W patriot hitch is very well liked on this forum. They are also American build by a company that put its workers to work doing civic maintenance during the recession rather than laying them off. Their under bed mounts are built specific to truck model making it pretty easy for the after market to get it right. My son just had one added to his F-350 CCLB SRW and loves it (gooseneck only so far). It only creates ond hole in the bed compared to Reese’s 5 holes. I have the under bed factory Ford (actually Reese) system. Since we have a short bed, the Reese slider hitch was crazy expensive. If doing it again I would go all the way with B&W myself. The only reason that I did not was that they do not make a slider hitch for the Ford mounts.

As a rule I use WD on anything over 300 lb. tongue weight. WD not only takes effective weight off the back axle reducing squat, but puts it back on the front axle returning to its weight to original design. Returning to original design weight reduces the tendency to over steer which could lead to sway. My goal when setting up WD is to return to original weight, not more weight, on the front. My other son has an F-350 crew cab, long bed, dually. Folks will tell you that you never need WD on that heavy of a truck, and he did not use it with his camping trailer. But, he had a pole trailer sway him across 3 lanes of interstate, and then back across the 3 lanes to the side of the road before he could get control. Now he uses WD and sway control on his camping trailer. Sway may be caused by many factors and this is not implying that WD is the most important—it’s just one factor. Undoubtedly there was something wrong with the loading of the pole trailer, but if you sway on time you’ll do everything you can to prevent it.

I strongly suggest using a diesel fuel additive for insurance. I use the Ford additive since there will be no factory argument on that. OptiLube also has a good reputation. Be careful of some of these older, classic, additives—some of them contain alcohol. Alcohol, gasoline, or water are all killers of the new high pressure fuel pumps. The repair is very expensive, and Ford will not cover it under warranty if the can prove alcohol, gasoline, or water. The Ford additive claims to add lubricity (for these sensitive fuel pumps) and cetane as well as a demulsifier. The demulsifier quality helps form water droplets which will then be caught in the first filter keeping them out of the fuel pump. So, you also will want to drain the water trap once per month.

Follow your owner’s manual, but I believe that it will say vary your speed for 500 miles and don’t tow for 1000 miles. This helps all the gears set in. You may also notice that the only oil approved for heavy service, bio-diesel, and less than zero degrees is the 5W40 full synthetic. Your trailer is not really in the category of heavy service, but I like to use the best possible oil for my baby. I would leave the factory 10w30 oil in for 5,000 miles since no one really seems to know for sure if they add break in additives. There was suspicion a few years ago that switching out the factory oil too early caused some valve clatter—no proof either way.

Thanks, lenr. Very informative post, and from a fellow Hoosier, no less :)

Bedlam wrote:
I don't remember the model, but you can see them mounted here. The Ford flaps were too short and skinny. The Rock Tamers have plenty of adjustment even if your load or truck changes.

Wow! Those seem...well, a bit excessive for my purposes. I'm less concerned about my trailer and more concerned with the muck and ice buildup I'm getting on my side steps and truck body. I can see why serious towers would go that route though.