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- Reddog1Explorer IIAnother example of hijacking a thread going off topic. If you start a thread, and it goes off topic with multiple post, click the notify button. I will try to get the thread back on topic. If it has gone too far I will close it. It is reasonable to expect a couple of off topic post, but not hijacks as seen here.
This Thread is closed.
Wayne
Moderator - AISURFFISHExplorerthis is going no-where..
No-one is sticking to the subject please close this forum and I will move on to another forum where someone will help with facts not an opinion.. - PowerdudeExplorerYep, I understand about running the fridge on DC while going down the road.
My Dometic works on gas, DC and AC, but on gas the stupid thing does not cool right. It works just fine and dandy on DC and AC.
I put in a new Trojan group 31 battery that has plenty of reserve capacity and pre-cool the fridge. One I get going down the road, the fridge on DC only uses a bit of the battery power, and gets recharged by the truck in a couple of hours. The voltage on the battery is usually pretty close to when I started.
Works really well. - Kayteg1Explorer III still don't get it, why 20 amp fridge would not operate correctly on 30 amp fuse with 50 amp rated wire?
I think the only weak link here is the spade connectors in 7-plug and that is why I clean them very well each season regardless paying attention to not drop the plug in the mud.
Would I really want high-amp connection, that is what I would use for charging
- BradWExplorer II
Powerdude wrote:
I was told by the guy who installed my Lance plug that all they do is get the truck side plug and plug it into the trailer wiring harness, all except for the 10 ga wire that they run directly from the battery to power the frige.
So, all the other wires just wire into the 7 pin standard towing harness.
Me thinks I have heard that before. They use the factory plug wires for everything except the two 8 gage wires they run directly to the battery. I assume they fuse the hot side at the battery.
We plan on getting an 2018 F350, so I will have to figure it out sooner or later. I want to wire this new truck with adequately sized wire for the frig to operate correctly on 12v going down the road. - BradWExplorer II
Freep wrote:
Using the stock plug with a converter results in the fridge running off battery and draining it while driving.
Yep, that is exactly what mine does because I tied into the 7-way rv plug on the back of our F350. - PowerdudeExplorerI was told by the guy who installed my Lance plug that all they do is get the truck side plug and plug it into the trailer wiring harness, all except for the 10 ga wire that they run directly from the battery to power the frige.
So, all the other wires just wire into the 7 pin standard towing harness. - Z-PellerExplorerGood grief Alice!!!....jeez people, give the OP a break..he just asked a straight forward simple question! What is the colour code wiring diagram for his 2017 ford trailer/ camper wiring harness so he can wire it up to his camper plug..I drive a GMC so cannot answer question. Does anyone drive a 2017 ford that knows the truck side wiring harness color code ????
- Kayteg1Explorer II
Freep wrote:
I did rewire my truck to accommodate the higher draw and the custom harness.
Using the stock plug with a converter results in the fridge running off battery and draining it while driving.
Can you post how you did it on 2017 F350?
My fridge takes like 16 amp @12V and 30 amp factory circuit should be adequate, but occasionally I see my camper batteries not fully charged.
Even I suspect my problem of not delivering rated 3o amp is the cord extension, I am considering adding extra cable to the camper.
Already have 100 amp rated cable and breakers, but than the charging concern comes.
When I deplete camper batteries and my dual alternators will cook them with overcharge, I will be even in bigger trouble.
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