Spring has sprung and I put a new battery on our TT. Hooked the battery up and I have no power in the camper when on battery power. Shore power, everything works fine. Only thing that works on battery is the power tongue jack, but it is direct connect to the battery.I checked all the fuses in the converter/ fuse panel, they are all good. Is there more fuses located anywhere else? I've crawled all over the camper looking for anything that may be the issue. I've also searched the forums, but put in "battery" and you get a lot of results.Not sure if I am missing something simple or not.Thanks for your help in advance!

OH, forgot to put camper info. 2015 North Trail 28BHS. Battery died because my trickle charger died on me over the winter and screwed the battery up. My fault for not checking on it, but it was a crazy year of kid's hockey.

You know I had this happen to me tore into many things checking, but only worked on shore. Frustrated I went onto something else, when I opened the front storage there it was, I forgot to turn on the main power. Turned it one and wala everything fine. Have you checked the main battery shut off? Sorry to be so simple but it caught me.

No problem with the simple suggestion! The camper does not have a main battery shut off. I installed one myself originally to keep the battery from draining in storage. I actually removed the switch to make sure that wasn't the cause of the problem trying to figure this out, but it wasn't.

If you are sure battery cables are correct (not reversed....tongue jack doesn't work backwards) then follow Battery POS cable from battery to the In-Line Fuse (or DC circuit breaker) on frame. Check for DC voltage on both sides.Fuse/CB could be bad (some CBs have small tab on side to reset them)IF cables hooked up backwards then 'Reverse Polarity' fuses on converter have blown Large 30A or 40A fusesCorrect battery cables (NEG to frame) then replace those fuses.

Maybe it hasn't had enough time to recharge off the converter? You could try turning off the converter and using jumper cables off your TV to see if there are no bad connections in the A-frame area. Electrolyte level okay? You can use a voltmeter to see what the state of charge is and what voltage the converter/charger is putting out. With 120 volts to the converter turned off (at converter panel), use a voltmeter to see what voltage is showing up at the converter from the battery (take front panel off converter) - do this with no-low DC load and then turn on a bunch of DC loads.Last year we had our battery develop a bad cell in under a year. Would not hold a charge. A battery shop diagnosed it. You could take the battery to a battery shop for testing.

New battery, no power? | Good Sam Community

myredracer
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2016
If the OP just wants to do a re & re of the breaker in the same location, they do make a boot/cover that fits over the breakers. The one below is from JEGS. Would be a whole lot better than the silly little piece of tape they typically put on the top of the breakers. Why can't the TT manufacturers at least use these at a minimum?
handye9
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2016
bloomis2925 wrote:
Thanks for the help everyone. It appears to be the circuit breakers attached to the frame. Power to the first one, no power after that. No reset switch on the circuit breaker. I will have to head out to the auto parts store and see if they have any available. Thanks again for the help!

Most auto parts stores do carry them. They come in various amp (20,30,40,etc) ratings. Check the amp rating on the one you have, or, take your old one with you.

Note: Disconnect shore power and battery while working on this.
brockwellw
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2016
Not sure if this will help but on my Dutchman there is a auto circuit breaker 30 amp on the frame by battery box. I have had it go bad. Got a replacement at auto parts store for around 5.00.
westend
Explorer
Apr 21, 2016
myredracer wrote:
westend wrote:
myred,
That factory job is just sinful. Good on 'ya for fixing it up right.

Thanks! It kinda shocked me when the + wire just fell out. Would not be nice for that to happen when you need the brakes the most. Sometimes I just can't believe the substandard workmanship they get away with all the time.

Yeah buddy.

Before there was workmanship there should have also been some design. How hard would it be to make up a few hundred looms for all the essential 12 V wire and have it lead into a waterproof enclosure, for starters. There would be money saved by looming all the wires to specific length and not individually cutting/terminating the wires. Better quality in the end, also.
myredracer
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2016
westend wrote:
myred,
That factory job is just sinful. Good on 'ya for fixing it up right.

Thanks! It kinda shocked me when the + wire just fell out. Would not be nice for that to happen when you need the brakes the most. Sometimes I just can't believe the substandard workmanship they get away with all the time.
westend
Explorer
Apr 21, 2016
myred,
That factory job is just sinful. Good on 'ya for fixing it up right.
myredracer
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2016
I would suggest that you inspect all the connections to the mini-breakers and also inside the 4x4" junction box. The factory can sometimes do a pretty bad job of wiring in the A-frame area.

The first photo shows what our 2 breakers looked like in just 2 years - a corroded mess. If that wasn't bad enough, the #10 positive wire on the downstream of the breaker heading into the junction box just fell out of the ring terminal due to a bad crimp job at the factory - see 2nd photo. The ground lug was badly corroded and one of the #10 wires had less than 1/2 the strands under the screw - 3rd photo. Just yesterday I finished installing a water-tight PVC junction box to replace the original leaky indoor-rated metal box. I installed new standard mini-breakers inside it and relocated all splices & connection inside it - shown in last photo.

The marine rated breakers look a good idea. 100 percent better than how the factory does it.
westend
Explorer
Apr 20, 2016
bloomis2925 wrote:
Thanks for the help everyone. It appears to be the circuit breakers attached to the frame. Power to the first one, no power after that. No reset switch on the circuit breaker. I will have to head out to the auto parts store and see if they have any available. Thanks again for the help!
Yup, might as well get two while you're there or one of these Marine rated breakers that will also operate as a circuit disconnect.
Or since you have a disconnect switch, one of these Self resetting breakers that should never fail.
bloomis2925
Explorer
Apr 20, 2016
Thanks for the help everyone. It appears to be the circuit breakers attached to the frame. Power to the first one, no power after that. No reset switch on the circuit breaker. I will have to head out to the auto parts store and see if they have any available. Thanks again for the help!
westend
Explorer
Apr 20, 2016
Check for a small canister circuit breaker, either in a junction box or attached to the trailer's frame/tongue. Some need to be reset by pushing a small button on the case.

If your trickle charger went South, it may have opened a converter fuse if everything was connected (sans switch).

Do you have a meter?