I just purchased a new Rockwood 2910 TS with the upgraded 15,000 BTU AC unit (standard was 13,500). On my first trip out it wasn't cooling well and the dealer checked it and replaced the unit.On my second trip, I went to the coast and the daytime temps were a high of 87 (high humidity). The first day it never got that cold (probably the fact we arrived at 11:00 AM was a factor).That night it got pretty cool in the trailer. But the next morning by noon, it was getting warm inside. Put a thermometer on the ducts when opened below AC and the air was coming out about 65. When those were closed so its pushing through the ducts, those temps are just several degrees warmer.But the temps in the trailer went up to about 80-82. The outside temps, was in the high 80's or close to 90.I would expect the 29 foot trailer to cool down better that that with the upgraded AC. Can't imagine what will happen in 100 degree summer heat. Has anyone else seen this with the Rockwoods? Should it have 2 units for a 29 foot trailer?It's wired for 30 amp, so a 2nd besides adding some weight to the front would require some rewiring.Am I expecting too much?

With my experiences with a 2011 Thor Fourwinds 25c (sold), It had a 13.5k on it and in 100* heat with the AC blowing it was hard to get it below 80, But I was out in the open on a sunny day, shade plays a big factor. Now with my 5th wheel with just 2 units running (15k&13.5k) in my 40 footer which is also out in the open it can hold the at 78* and still cycle on and off. And if thats not enough I can always start up the 3rd 13.5k that I installed on my bunk house. But a 15k on a 29 footer, sounds like it should get under 80. Does it have a dark colored roof or walls.

Measure the temp of the air going in and coming out of the AC. A 16~21 degree drop is the best they can do. If it's doing that then you need more AC.

I had a single 15k BTU unit on my Weekend warrior, which was 41' total (37' box) with a small slideout. It had no problem keeping the trailer cool even in hot humid summer in Charlotte, NC. The trailer seemed to be well insulated however, with the exception of the slideout and ramp door. I would have to pull the slide in during extreme lows in the winter, but never had to in the summer. Does your unit have the tan exterior? If yes, that is no doubt a factor. Even though isn't very dark, it will still absorb a lot more heat than white. I also noticed that many new trailers have tan roof membrane now.I almost bought a new Outback with the Mocha exterior, tan roof, and black front cap. I'm glad I didn't, even though the color scheme looks really sharp. So far I've been on two trips with my new Creekside, which is all white, and even when its 90F outside it stays cool enough inside I have not needed to run the A/C yet.

Well that Texas heat and humidity can do that to most RVs, I know when we camped San Antonio and South Padre the AC had to run 24/7, arrival day it would finally catch up in the late evening, and as long as we never turned it off it kept our 32' rig comfortable over the rest of the stay. FR states your rig's length at nearly 34', plus all the slide-outs adds to the difficulty your AC encounters trying to cool down a large TT. I use a temp gun to monitor difference of incoming and outgoing air from our AC unit, usually see a 25 degree difference but it still takes some time for it to cool the entire interior of our rig.

We're in TN where summers are hot and humid. We only camp where we can find shady places which are in the COEs and SPs. The A/C in our 28' NT-BRS is adequate for the hottest days. I don't know if we could or should expect to be as comfy in our RVs as we are at home. My TT is white with a white roof.

New Rockwood 2910 TS AC not cooling enough | Good Sam Community

RobertRyan
Explorer
Jul 29, 2014
CavemanCharlie wrote:
This camper seems to have found a roof unit that works for him. I looked it up on the internet. It was designed and made in Australia. It looks intriguing. It's sold over here as the Atwood Air Command. Click on the link below for the post

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27854590.cfm

Well known basic air conditioning unit in Australia
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Jul 28, 2014
This camper seems to have found a roof unit that works for him. I looked it up on the internet. It was designed and made in Australia. It looks intriguing. It's sold over here as the Atwood Air Command. Click on the link below for the post

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27854590.cfm
jaycocreek
Explorer II
Jul 28, 2014
Less than $100 at 4.8 amps/515 watts it works great. Coupled with the 13.5 air it makes a huge difference when temps are knocking on the door of 100 degrees out.

Stand alone without the 13.5 air going it makes about 10 degrees difference on this day when it only got to 89 degrees and run off my Honda 2k.

I only have two windows it fits into, this one and the bedroom escape window which also has a door to escape out of.:B
bradg
Explorer
Jul 28, 2014
Went out for the first time since my last post where I had problems with it cooling down on the beach at 87 degrees with no shade.

This weekend, I went to the lakes where I had pretty good shade (hit and miss as the sun moved), but the temps were at least 10 degrees hotter (97-99). I also put a portable standing AC in the trailer (8000 or 9000 BTU) and vented it through the rear window.

It stayed cold day and night. Even in the hottest part of the day, the inside temp was about 74 or cooler) and at night it was probably below 70). Not sure what made the most difference, the portable AC or the partial shade. But the fact it was at least 10 degrees warmer give me an indication that I can definitely deal with it.

In fact, my biggest problem became condensation that dripped off some of the vents. The humidity was really high too.
jaycocreek
Explorer II
Jul 03, 2014
That air conditioner would hit the ground before you could get out.:B

In our case it's not needed because it's much easier just to open the back door than diving out the adjacent window and easier on old bones.
dadmomh
Explorer
Jul 03, 2014
Not sure I'd be crazy about filling up the "Escape" window with an A/C.....the key word is escape. If you should have a problem, you've just blocked an escape route. Any other window available???
jaycocreek
Explorer II
Jul 03, 2014
:D

Took it out,set it on the floor.. Super light.. Used a PVC pole I use for my Yagi cell antenna to hold up the escape window up so it wouldn't rub/vibrate on the air conditioner.

Less than $100 bucks, draws 4.8 amps and compliments the factory 13.5 air great for the really got days in an RV and runs off a Honda 2k for those muggy days in the boonies.

Before when it was really hot we had to put the factory air on bypass the ducts to strait down dump with a box fan aimed at wherever we were, especially at night.
tbred
Explorer II
Jul 03, 2014
I think part of the problem is all the separated areas your single unit is trying to cool. If you can shut the bunk room and bathroom doors then put your a/c on dump mode into main living area during the day, you may stand a chance. Only use ducted air in pm as things cool down. This is what we do on our similar sized tt, just returned from a hot steamy week in the Ozarks and our 13.5k unit had no problem keeping the trailer a cool 74 on the hottest days. As others have pointed out as well, I always book shady sites in the summer.
bradg
Explorer
Jul 03, 2014
jaycocreek wrote:
I've tried them and was not impressed, your better off to put your air on dump with a box fan below it pushing the cold air where you want it, like at night towards the bedroom.

As I said, the window 5k unit works great put in the escape window drawing less than 5 amps and completely cooling the back area coupled with the 13.5 kept my trailer comfy in the middle to high 90's (hooked up)and the Honda 2k handled it with ease on stand alone without hookups boondocking.

Putting a window unit in the rear escape window... did you remove it each time, or was there any problem of it staying in the window while the trailer was traveling. After all a normal house isn't hitting bumps.
jaycocreek
Explorer II
Jul 03, 2014
I've tried them and was not impressed, your better off to put your air on dump with a box fan below it pushing the cold air where you want it, like at night towards the bedroom.

As I said, the window 5k unit works great put in the escape window drawing less than 5 amps and completely cooling the back area coupled with the 13.5 kept my trailer comfy in the middle to high 90's (hooked up)and the Honda 2k handled it with ease on stand alone without hookups boondocking.