So about 3 weeks ago I bought a Dutchman Aspen Trail 18rb. 2 problems i have with it. The A/C is only 8,000 btu window unit, the other is the fridge.So here is Texas with the temps running about 95 to 98 this weekend, during the day the A/C will only cool the trailer to 80 degrees until the sun goes down. Cooled it to 65 by in the morning then back up to 80 by noonish. This is also with the bathroom door closed to cut down the area to keep cool. Wish I could return the trailer, but probably too late now that i bought it. So my question is has anyone ever change out theirs 8,000 btu with a 12000 btu and put it where the current A/c is located. What are the other options for my delema?On to the fridge. I park the tt in my driveway, but cant get it level enough there it run the fridge for 3 days before i leave out to get it cold. I have thought of putting a small fridge in that just runs on 120 volts and freon, but how would i keep things cold on a 4 to 6 hour drive? Any other suggestions?David

When my ac went bad I put a 10,000btu ac in a window and it worked great but with temps close to 100 it is hard for most rv's to cool unless in some shade. I also replaced refer when it went bad with a smaller compressor refer. I got more usable space and never had a problem getting too warm after eight hours of driving.

Congratulations on your new rig!Dry air is hard for any size air conditioning to cool.My trailer stock was an 8000 btu above the fridge but received a factory upgrade to a 13.5 rooftop. It's often too powerful for the tiny cabin and that creates issues too.Don't obsess about the fridge being perfectly level, it's not going to be destroyed running a few days in your driveway.If camping in high heat will be the norm, You might want to consider adding a fan inside the vent for the fridge, there's several recent postings on that topic.

GordonThree wrote:Congratulations on your new rig!Dry air is hard for any size air conditioning to cool.My trailer stock was an 8000 btu above the fridge but received a factory upgrade to a 13.5 rooftop. It's often too powerful for the tiny cabin and that creates issues too.Don't obsess about the fridge being perfectly level, it's not going to be destroyed running a few days in your driveway.If camping in high heat will be the norm, You might want to consider adding a fan inside the vent for the fridge, there's several recent postings on that topic.But will the fridge cool with it not level?

GordonThree wrote:Don't obsess about the fridge being perfectly level, it's not going to be destroyed running a few days in your driveway.dudechevy wrote:But will the fridge cool with it not level?Your trailer doesn't have to be "perfectly" level for a gas absorption fridge to operate properly but it does need to be reasonably level so that being the case why take a chance based on the opinion of someone on the internet you don't know and has no vested interest in whether your fridge lives or dies? :R Damage is cumulative and can begin within 15 minutes of being turned on so although the fridge may not fail for some time eventually it will. Question is - why can't you reasonably level your trailer? :@

cant reasonably level because of my driveway being up hill.

new tt, a/c too small, refrigerator question | Good Sam Community

28 Replies

dudechevy
Explorer
Aug 03, 2018
So I emailed the mfg company about the A/C not keeping it cool. They basically told me to have the A/c checked out by the dealer. If the a/c is working with in specs. then there is nothing I can do. if I replace the a/c with another one, it could void my warranty. I will post our conversation below. I am not happy with their reply.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
from me
to: ownerrelations@keystonerv.com

I just bought a 2018 aspen trail 1800rb. It has the 8,000 btu window style a/c unit in it. With temps above 90 here in Texas, it will only cool the trailer to about 80 degrees until the sun goes down. That is with heavy curtains over all the windows, the awning extended and the bathroom door shut. I am very unhappy with this since I was assured by the salesman that the trailer was insulated well enough that the a/c unit would be enough to keep it cool. Will the electrical handle a 12000 btu a/c unit? Can you recommend a 12000 btu unit that would fit in the spot the current a/c is? Are there any other options for this problem?

David
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Misty Martin
to me

Good afternoon Mr. Branch,

Thank you for contacting Keystone RV regarding your Aspen Trail. We apologize; however, we cannot advise on any aftermarket modifications to the unit from a liability standpoint. If you choose to go with the 12,000 BTU and it fits, if there any aftermarket parts, installation and/or damage resulting from your modifications may not be covered by Keystone RV. If you feel that there is an issue with the performance with the A/C in your unit please have an authorized dealer submit the A/C diagnostics to our service department for review. Thank you and have a great day.

Thank you,

Misty Martin

Customer Support Manager

Owner Relations

Keystone, Dutchmen and Crossroads RV

Ph: 1-866-425-4369

Fax: 1-866-273-1451

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Aug 02, 2018
dudechevy wrote:
I leveled my tt using the Lego style blocks like some of you used in your pics. Then put in the little fan I bought on Amazon. Wow it cooled off the freigde in about 12 hours.

I'm glad that you found a way to level the TT.

I think that you could install a lager AC without to much effort. If you are not handy at carpentry do you have a friend that is ?

It does depend on how much physically larger the newer AC would be and how much room there is near where it it located. But, they all are designed to fit into a house window so they are usually close to the same size.

Please don't be upset by some of the members and there arguing. This site is very helpful.
dudechevy
Explorer
Aug 02, 2018
I leveled my tt using the Lego style blocks like some of you used in your pics. Then put in the little fan I bought on Amazon. Wow it cooled off the freigde in about 12 hours.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 30, 2018
Farmerkev wrote:
Why are you putting your tongue jack blocks in the wrong way?
Should be long ways with slope, not short.

SoundGuy wrote:
Nope - we've been through this before. :R Look carefully at how I chock the trailer and you'll see it can't go anywhere as forward pressure exerted by the rear set of tires pushes against the rear set of rubber chocks which in turn pushes against the hardwood spacers which in turn pushes against the front set of chocks which in turn pushes against the two front tires. Those wheels are bolted to the wheel hubs which are part of the axle assembly which is bolted to the equalizers which are bolted to the trailer frame. Regardless of slope there is no lateral pressure of any kind on the tongue jack or the stack below it, therefore I can place the stack any way I want to. How 'bout that. ;)

Farmerkev wrote:
Never totally trust wheel chocks, lateral force WILL be induced if you lose air in a tire.
Lateral force can also be introduced by the board slipping on the driveway the tires rest on.
Therefore you place the blocks correctly.

Nonsense. I did lose air completely last year when one of the curb side tires suddenly deflated while the trailer was sitting on the driveway chocked just like this. The tire was later determined to have split, with a large oval shaped delamination bubble inside the tire. The trailer didn't shift a centimeter and I replaced all four of these original Chinese tires with Goodyear Endurance. Secondly, look carefully and you'll see the 2x wood sitting on 3/4" thick rubber tread, that elevating support isn't going anywhere. I've been chocking and elevating the tongue jack with variations of this same process for 20 yrs now, I have zero concern about the trailer ever shifting. :B
Farmerkev
Explorer
Jul 30, 2018
SoundGuy wrote:
Farmerkev wrote:
Why are you putting your tongue jack blocks in the wrong way?
Should be long ways with slope, not short.

Nope - we've been through this before. :R Look carefully at how I chock the trailer and you'll see it can't go anywhere as forward pressure exerted by the rear set of tires pushes against the rear set of rubber chocks which in turn pushes against the hardwood spacers which in turn pushes against the front set of chocks which in turn pushes against the two front tires. Those wheels are bolted to the wheel hubs which are part of the axle assembly which is bolted to the equalizers which are bolted to the trailer frame. Regardless of slope there is no lateral pressure of any kind on the tongue jack or the stack below it, therefore I can place the stack any way I want to. How 'bout that. ;)

Never totally trust wheel chocks, lateral force WILL be induced if you lose air in a tire.
Lateral force can also be introduced by the board slipping on the driveway the tires rest on.
Therefore you place the blocks correctly.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Jul 30, 2018
Don't see where it makes any difference. The wheels are securely chocked. It ain't moving.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Jul 30, 2018
You could check with the manufacturer to see if your unit has been prepped for a rooftop AC.
Also check to see if a larger window unit was an option.
When setting up, the camper may be level, but the fridge may not. I have my exterior levels set to the fridge.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 30, 2018
Farmerkev wrote:
Why are you putting your tongue jack blocks in the wrong way?
Should be long ways with slope, not short.

Nope - we've been through this before. :R Look carefully at how I chock the trailer and you'll see it can't go anywhere as forward pressure exerted by the rear set of tires pushes against the rear set of rubber chocks which in turn pushes against the hardwood spacers which in turn pushes against the front set of chocks which in turn pushes against the two front tires. Those wheels are bolted to the wheel hubs which are part of the axle assembly which is bolted to the equalizers which are bolted to the trailer frame. Regardless of slope there is no lateral pressure of any kind on the tongue jack or the stack below it, therefore I can place the stack any way I want to. How 'bout that. ;)
Fordlover
Explorer
Jul 30, 2018
GordonThree wrote:
Oh soundguy, always quick with an insult

Right? I thought Canadians were all uber friendly?

For what it is worth OP, my trailer I just sold (11 years old) has never been so far out of level that the fridge didn't operate.

I'd try to find a way to get the trailer pretty level.

You might have to use your imagination...
Farmerkev
Explorer
Jul 30, 2018
SoundGuy wrote:
dudechevy wrote:
I found my machinist protractor with a level in the garage, so I checked the levelness of my tt. I found it is level enough by the manufacturing company requirements (mfg says 3 sideways, 6 front to back) (mine .5 sideways, 2 front to back) to run the fridge while it is in my driveway.

Not to belabour the point but I don't understand why you're unable to properly level your trailer. My driveway slopes noticeably to the street so when leveled front-to-back the tongue is 3' off the drive while the bumper is just 1'. The driveway is off side-to-side as well so I have to elevate the curb side tires 2.25" ...

Leveled in this manner the trailer is perfectly level in both axes. :B The point - once you determine how to best level the trailer it's never going to change and can be used anytime the trailer is parked on the driveway so why run the fridge off level at all when there's no need? :h

Why are you putting your tongue jack blocks in the wrong way?
Should be long ways with slope, not short.