Newbee Needs HELP Rockwood Freedom Model #1610

pcfeld nailed a bunch of it and RoyB filled in a bit but I'll just rattle down your list as best as I can.

1. Can somebody give me details on the electrical, battery, and LP gas systems (i.e., how do they work? what are their capabilities? how long can I operate the trailer independent of "hook-ups?" Any wisdom I might need to know?)

You likely won't get this information from Rockwood as they pull the components from RV industry manufacturers and incorporate them into the various PUP floor plans and designs. You'll need to figure out the manufacturer and and model number of the appliances in your PUP and track those down. Generally, these appliances have not changed much over the years, so a manual for something within a few years often is the same manual for the year of your product. The same is often true of the PUP models themselves. See this link for a 2004 Rockwood owners manual. It really contains generic information and can often apply to ANY PUP made by anybody, but you'll get the idea specifically from Rockwood's designs.

And ultimately, the answer to your question about how long they will last when you're "dry camping" is a big ole "It depends." It depends on how much capacity of the various systems you have, and it depends on how much you use or conserve them. This is extremely variable. There are calculators to help you determine how much battery capacity you have and how much each appliance consumes to give you an idea. BTW, the rule of thumb is to never discharge your battery below 50% of its capacity, which is not 6 volts on a 12 volt battery. It is more like 11.9 to 12.0 volts. See The 12 Volt Side Of Life for a good introduction to battery usage.

2. Does anyone have any ideas on how to seal up all the edges at the floor around the wood cabinetry?

I'd really to see a picture of what you're talking about. The way these things come together is a layering effect: first the frame is built, the wood sub-floor is laid down, vinyl flooring on top of that then the cabinetry is assembled on top of that. So I'm not sure what you are wanting to seal. If it is the underside of the exterior sub-flooring, don't as this can trap moisture and make the situation even worse. Same goes for under the bunk-ends - don't seal those up with paint or other coatings.

BTW, to see a video on the construction of PUPs, see this How It's Made video on PUPs.

If you're talking about the actual edges of the wood work and cabinetry, again, if you can attach a photo, that would be most helpful to see what you're talking about.

3. Where do or can I buy new bed mattresses?

You don't want to get more of the same kind of mattresses as what comes originally from the manufacturer. Those are thin, uncomfortable and hard to find. Many people have replaced them even when they were in good condition. Air mattresses (low-end to high-end, such as Aerobed) work, medium density foam and memory foam combinations are quite common and can be cut to fit if you can't find exact dimensions. We have the standard low to medium density mattress that came with it and memory foam toppers on top of that. It gets tight when closing up because of the increased height of the mattress but it works for us.

4. The black screening on both sides of the trailer's middle section has small patched holes. Where do or can I purchase replacement screen sections?

That depends on how you plan to go about repairing it. The most readily option is to go to your favorite hardware store and get the black fiber glass replacement screen material in a roll and attach it via sewing or whatever you're thinking. You can contact Bear Creek Canvas or Canvas Replacements for estimates on what they charge for the repair.

5. Is there a method of reinforcing the wooden flooring from underneath the trailer?

Sure. How handy are you and what skills do you have or want to develop? Welding in cross support members is certainly a way to go. Others have built wooden support frames that they've then drilled holes in the frames and attached with bolts in the areas that are sagging. This assumes the flexing isn't caused by rotting wood.

6. Has anyone ever sealed up the wooden flooring from underneath the trailer?

Don't. See #2 above for why.

7. Does the A/C unit need to be recharged at any point with Freon?

Is it blowing cold? If so, you're fine and no further maintenance is needed other than keeping the coils, fins, filters, etc clean. If it is not blowing cold, there is no service port on it to add coolant. I have heard of folks getting an A/C technician to cut a line and splice in the ports needed to recharge the system, but that's above and beyond.

8. Is there any type of roof rack that can be mounted on top of the closed trailer to storage things while going down the road, and or my trooper's bicycles?

Bicycles...what to do with them... If your PUP already has a rack system in place, that's a nice way to go. If not, there are a number of examples of folks who've built their own that include using plywood bases with bicycle mounts on them and cinch straps down to the PUP's frame to hold them in place, build your own tower/bar/mounting system, hitch-anchored bike racks of various designs, etc. That one just takes a little looking around to see what will work for your particular situation and needs. Personally, I am loathed to put a new hole in the roof of my PUP and spend serious effort to protect the existing ones from water intrusion.

9. I'd be curious to hear of any other modifications anyone else has made to the trailer?Huh??

Now you're talking. For a short list of mine, click here. There are a fair amount more that I have yet to document and provide. You can do as little or as much as you want. If so inclined, make it yours and fit what you want it to do.

10. The catch-all: Tell me anything on your mind (on the topic of the trailer).....

Don't be afraid of something you've never done before. Before a PUP, I had never: known or performed any axle service or changes to a suspension system, known about electric trailer brakes or brake controllers, known how much pressure LP lines and appliances are needed for RV usage, disassembled and rebuilt part of a refrigerator, cared about the use of anode rods, known about different types of generators, and on, and on and on. Just be curious, ask "why" and "how" and check pride at the door. Also, a sense of humor and not taking one's self seriously goes a long way. And learn how to organize your family into a well-oiled, PUP-deployment team.

11. Can somebody tell me the names of the manufacturers of the different systems on the trailer? (i.e., the furnace, the refrigerator, the air conditioner, the LP Gas system, the converter, the water holding tank, the electrical system, etc.) Ultimately, I would like to acquire all the owner's / user's manuals.

You're going to have to determine those yourself. Generally, there are only a few manufacturers of each appliance. Suburban and Atwood make the water heaters. Typically, it is an Atwood furnace. Converts and other items should have a manufacturer label on them somewhere. It really depends on where Rockwood sourced the various items.

12. Does anyone out there have a electrical wiring schematic for the trailer that they would be willing to share?

I can't help you there. Maybe contacting Rockwood for that information could help but those things are often quite hard to find for current but especially hard for older PUPs.

I need to literally learn how to use my trailer....

Good. That's the way you learn and improve and either avoid or learn how to correct mistakes. They will happen. It's inevitable. What you do with them is the important thing.

What other questions do you have? We haven't covered towing yet... ;)

Here is a couple more photos of a 2001 Rockwood Freedom Model 1610..
ROCKWOOD FREEDOM MODEL 1610









Roy Ken

Any trailer made in the early 2000's is going to be hard to find info on. I would go to google and enter your YR and Model number and keep searching. Anything interesting you find copy it and move to a folder on your computer.

I did find a pretty good listing of a similar trailer with some info you might need. Most finding usually just include maybe one photo and a very brief description. Definitely copy this info to a folder on your computer. Go to the other listing here and capture all of the different interior photos of similar years. Eventually you will have pretty good photo package of your trailer. They will not vary much from year to year.

2002 Rockwood Freedom Model 1610






Rockwood Tent Camping Trailer Model 1610
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)
2,287 lbs. (1037 kg)
Base/Dry Unit Weight
1,574 lbs. (714 kg)
Base/Dry Hitch Weight
187 lbs. (85 kg)
Base/Dry Axle Weight
1,387 lbs. (629 kg)
Cargo Capacity
525 lbs. (238 kg)
Box Size
8 ft. (2.44 m)
Trailer Size (Closed)- Includes Hitch
14 ft. (4.27 m)
Height (Closed)
57 in. (1.45 m)
Trailer Length (Open)
17 ft. (5.18 m)
Interior Height (Open)
6 ft. 6 in. (1.98 m)
Travel Width
85 in. (2.16 m)
Tire Size
12 in. (30 cm)
Power Converter with Charger
25 AMPS

I notice POPUPPORTAL only has two manuals listed for download for a ROOKWOOD trailer. The 2004 manual should be ok for your trailer. My startcraft manuals included electrical diagram but unfortunately the ROCKWOOD manuals don't show one. POPUPPORTAL is a great place to read about your trailer however... Lots of input there for the older trailers...

Roy Ken

A few things that I am some what sure on.

Look at popupportal.com for manuals for the rockwood.
popupportal manuals

The mfg of the individual appliance vary from yr to yr and maker so specific info is hard to give with knowing that. You may be able to contact Rockwood with your VIN requesting the mfg of each item so that you can research farther for manuals.

With your unit being a 2001 the running of appliances should be pretty straight forward. Once the gas tank opened on the tongue and power supplied to the camper you may only need to adjust the thermostat to get the furnace to start. The stove should also be straight forward. The lights will require a safety switch to be pressed which is either swing up galley or near the lift post. The fridge will most likely have controls on the outside behind a panel. Don't use more than one power source at a time. It will take upto a day to cool down so don't expect instant temp change once it is on.

There is no reason to seal the underside of the floor as it was treated by the wood mfg and if will usually outlast the remaining camper. Most rot comes from the roof or water system leaking keeping the inside wet. I have a camper turned trailer that is 40+ yrs old and the floor is solid except where wet yard waste sat in the corner for a extended period.

The A/C are usually a sealed system and don't have the option to be charged.

I believe the screen would require complete section replacement as they are sewn in. You may be able to contact Bear Creak Canvas or another canvas replacement company. I found a screen patch tape and intalled it over a hole from when DW put a pole through it. Been on it for yrs with no problems except the fact I get to inform DW of her mistake when someone mentions it.

The run time of the components without hook ups is dependent on the variables of the user. Depending on how the usage of the furnace and stove a tank of LP can last 1 night or months. Battery is the same way and is also dependent on the condition and size.

Without hookup only 12 volt items work, not the 110 outlets or A/C so don't expect to run a microwave even with a inverter for very long on a battery. The fridge should only be run on 12v during travel and short periods of time. After a number of hours and it will deplete a battery, including a TV battery, don't ask how I know this.

There are roof racks that can be added to the top but remember you are extremely limited to the amount. Usually 300 lbs which the A/C and Awning will use approx 1/3.

WE use a memory 1 1/2 foam on to of our mattress it works great.
I have it in out 5th wheel and our popup.