rubsal70 wrote:
jerem0621 wrote:
rubsal70 wrote:
Guys Merry Christmas again. Thank you all for the info that y'all have given me. As of right now it looks like I'll be changing to 3.73 gears. I also will be adding a transmission cooler to it. What else would I need. The way we camp with the family is we just take clothes, cooler and some gear. It never totals 500 lbs of cargo. Besides the cooler what else do y'all recommend. My truck is not a 4x4 so only rear axle change would be needed. I do plan on getting a WD with sway control and obviously brake control for the trailer. Do I need to upgrade brakes to my truck also? I appreciate the info. I'm a little confused but to me it makes sense that changing gears will add max tow as per manual and like others have confirmed. To the person who posted the video to me and like someone said it doesn't look stressed. Any one else have any more advice please let me know. I will try to make a decision in the next week or two
Thanks
Here is a thought... Instead of 3.73 why not go to a 4.10 now. The cost is the same and you should not notice much difference between the two in daily driving. However, towing will be much nicer with the 4.10.
Thanks
Well my truck's manual has two options under the same engine. My current 3.23 and the 3.73 gears. I thought I was only able to do 3.73. If I do 4.10 what is my max tow? Also with the 3.23 the gcwr was 10000. With the 3.73 it has 12000 gcwr. What would it be for 4.10?
The gear changes may increase the weight rating of what you might put behind the truck, but, they will not increase the trucks GVWR or it's payload (weight you put on the truck). Those are the first places you will go over weight. A bigger number in tow capacity, may lead you to think you can tow a heavier trailer, but, that heavier trailer will also come with more tongue weight.
You stated earlier, your payload was 1650 lbs. If that is advertised payload, it may not be your actual payload. The truck may have arrived at the dealership, with 1650 payload, but, anything added by the dealer or the customer, such as bed liner, bed mat, floor mats, hitch, bed cover, bed cap, etc, will reduced the payload pound for pound. Add a 200 lb bed cap, and, 1650 payload becomes 1450. You mentioned adding a tranny cooler, even that will reduced your payload by however much it weighs.
To find your actual payload available, weigh the truck with full fuel and driver. Subtract that weight from GVWR as printed on your door post. You might find your available payload is more like 13 - 1500 lbs. That is what you have to work with for passengers, cargo (in the truck), WD hitch (about 100 lbs), and trailer tongue weight. Doesn't matter what you do with the rear end gears.
Some numbers to think about:
If you start out with 1400 lbs payload and:
subtract 100 lbs WD hitch
subtract 400 - 500 lbs for passengers
subtract 200 - 300 lbs for cargo in the truck
You only have payload available for 500 lbs tongue weight.
Plug in your own numbers to see where you're at.
Average camping load (groceries, water, camp chairs, dishes, and bedding) is 11 - 1200 lbs, 10 - 15% of this will be on the tongue
Average tongue weight is 12% of gross trailer weight.
6000 lb (loaded for camping) trailer = about 720 lbs tongue weight
7000 lb (loaded for camping) trailer = about 840 lbs tongue weight
Water weighs a little under 8 lbs per gallon. Thirtyfive gallons in your holding tank is close to 280 lbs, just in your fresh tank.
Grey water and sewage weighs more per gallon than fresh water.
Advertised trailer weights are from empty trailer leaving the factory.
The selling dealer adds propane, battery, and some options. When the trailer leaves dealer lot, tongue weight is normally 100 - 150 lbs higher than advertised.
Trailer sales people will tell you "No problem pulling a trailer that has unloaded weight with in your tow capacity". Except for delivery guys, taking it from factory to dealer, NOBODY TOWS EMPTY.