Newer diesel with least problems

DPF monitoring.
I put my ScanGauge onto garage shelf once I sold 6l Powerstroke, but lately got an idea to check what it can do on newer engines.
Turns out ScanGauge not only has gauge to show you regeneration status for 6.7l, but also a soot load indication so you can predict the Regen cycles a little better.
You need to program the new gauges to Xgauge, so I have to dust off the manuals and start scratching my head sitting in the truck in 95F garage, but sounds promising.

Tim,
Good job on explaining the 'fleet' perspective on modern diesel trucks. It's all in the maintenance numbers. I bought my 2001.5 Dodge Cummins 5.9HO truck new, as I had a feeling the engine would outlive me. At the time, many were hot rodding their CTD's with wires, huge turbos and big injectors to get more power. I decided in the long run that was a mistake for longevity so left the engine essentially alone. The former 5.9 low output Cummins engines, also called Gen I's, have been faithful performers even with their stock, mechanically injected, smog device free, 160 to 190 HP limit. Those were essentially 'detuned' so as not to destroy the tinky Mopar automatic transmissions and running gear of the era. Those will be the only ones running come the EMP. But most of these have a LOT miles on them and get dirtier, and lifetime is reduced when you hot rod them, so they are fading from the scene. Which brings me to the Gen II motors, which in the 2001-2002 HO mode have 245 HP and 505 # feet of TQ. With a heavy load, it is just enough power. Being 24-valved, they run cleaner than the earlier Gen I's, with only a 3" exhaust, resonator, and stock muffler.
I can report these issues and addendum with the 5.9L HO Cummins @ 164K miles:
replaced lift pump with a pusher in front of the fuel tank instead of the factory sucker-on-engine a couple times, purely as preventative not on failure.
added a fuel pressure idiot light, which comes when you turn on the ignition switch or if the fuel pressure drops below 5 pounds.
an aftermarket 4" exhaust and free flow muffler with resonator delete after the salts and soda of the Mojave Road ate my factory exhaust system. The resonator was not part of the smog system and not required for a smog test.
Replacement aftermarket air cleaner.
added a short tube on the waste gate to make the turbo wind up at a lower rpm.
new fuel gauge sending unit in the tank.
I have run out of fuel twice. Both times I had to prime the fuel filter and do a few on-offs with the ignition switch to get the air out of the system.
That's it. It's not a 53 block. I still have the original VP-44 injector pump and it seems fine using Diesel Service injector cleaner every other tank.
It truly has been the most trouble free machine I've ever driven.
You learn to deal with the low power, compared to the newest diesels, especially with the 6 speed manual trans which will get me in the correct gear for the power band in almost every circumstance.
I bought this truck with the hope that it would outlive me. So far so good.
jefe

2002 Ford 7.3.

Diesels never liked run out of fuel.
Newer with electric prime pumps are actually better as priming old diesel would drain battery and still not make it running.
The meters are calibrated on safe side. When with big range on diesel I always fill up price-wise, I did drive gasoline car for 25 miles with computer showing 0 range.

Low on fuel - screen displays read "35 miles to empty". I'm 35 miles out of Gila Bend and so I should just make it. And then the screen flashes "Cleaning Exhaust Filter".!!

Moral of the story? Never run out of fuel. Don't even get low. There are severe complications if these new trucks run out of fuel.

Theory says that you shouldn't need to Regen if you drive the way the engineers think you should. The exhaust should get plenty hot in that case. We all drive hours with loads only at interstate speeds on flat land at warm temperatures every start up, right? :). However, most people don't push their engines that long, so Regen happens.

Kayteg1 wrote:
I never can tell when regeneration happen on my vehicles (sometimes the only indication is smell) but 1 time driving long distance I was resetting mpg display to observe how winds affect it.
So once the mpg dropped from 12 down to 9 mpg on 20 miles stretch. There was no noticeable difference in wind to explain such difference, so only conclusion was that I catch it on regeneration.

If I am driving thru town and stop at a stop sign or light the engine runs 2-300 rpm higher than normal when it is in the DPF cycle.
I tend to run the average fuel mileage display a lot because I am somewhat intrigued by how speed, wind, etc affect the mileage. The engine is definitely dumping more fuel when cleaning the DPF in order to get the temperature up and it shows in the average mileage.
I wait a while after I see it is in the DPF cycle before I get heavy footed theorizing that once the DPF gets good and hot the extra pressure from heavier acceleration may help blow the junk off the DPF. I don't know if that is actually true or not, but does seem to shorten the length of time the cycle takes. It does not seem to drop it immediately out of the cycle.

Nice informative unbiased post Tim.......I wish more members would post with their heads and not their hearts.
Thanks,
TG

I work for a state agency and I get to drive, maintain and track the performance of many different trucks, mostly diesel. Our pickup fleet switched from Ford Powerstroke to Chevy/GMC Duramax around 2010. The switch was prompted mainly due to increased costs associated with engine repair, primarily turbo problems. Fleet vehicles get ridden hard and put away wet for most of their life. This gives me a bit of a different perspective on the diesel truck debates that I typically see here on this forum. Most users here have trucks that they care for like members of the family. I understand that as I have a Ford 6.0 that is well maintained and kept in top running condition. I would hate to see my personal truck have the life of one of our fleet vehicles.

The previous Fords were a combination of 6.0's and the earlier 7.x liter motors. Some were good running trucks and others seemed to be constant headaches. The fleet managers made the decision to change brands after running the numbers on maintenance costs over the average life of a truck in the fleet. Trucks are usually sold when they near 200K miles.

The Duramax motors have been reliable and good performers for the most part. As noted by others in this discussion it is usually sensors and emission systems that require fixing. This tends to be under warranty during the first couple of years, so the cost is not borne by the department. Personally, I like the GM trucks because they ride well and require little care and feeding. I am not so much a fan of their cargo capacity or layout compared to the Fords (personal preference, mind you). There are some routine maintenance procedures that are much more complicated than our older Fords and this causes some of us heartburn. Oil and filter changes are a pain on the newer 3500 series, especially fuel filters. Hate that the DEF fluid fill is under the hood where you end up spilling the stuff. But overall I have to say that the reliability of the GM trucks has been very good. I cannot say what happens to them when they top out over 200K.

We do not have many Dodges in the fleet so I don't have info on them. The fleet managers are constantly reviewing their purchase decisions and could change to Dodge or back to Ford anytime. It is a numbers thing entirely. We won't know until they show up at the sheds.

This brings me back to my own choice of a 2006 Ford 6.0. I love the layout and features of my King Ranch F350. I traded an F150 for it in 2011 when the 6.0 had the reached the lowest of the low reputation. It has been a good motor for me and currently clocks in at 180K. It has had no problems other than having a bolt dropped in an intake when I had the oil cooler replaced and EGR cooler bulletproofed at a dealership. I lost a piston, glow plug, set of valves, connecting rod, etc. They made good on the repair with both new head gaskets (the heads were fine), head machining, factory replacement parts and ARP head studs. She runs like a top now. I hate doing major repair at home since I have to work on trucks at work, but that experience taught me that not working on my own vehicle is always a gamble. At least it didn't cost me and I did get free head studs out of it!

If you are going to operate a diesel you need to be acquainted with how the motor is performing. There are products you can use to extend the life of the motor and drivetrain - I am a big believer in cetane improvers, synthetic oils and some other additives like Archoil. These seem to keep my injectors clean and happy, even when I have cold starts in below zero temperatures. When people start running them hotter than intended by the manufacturer they stand a much greater chance of having problems and living shorter lives. I do not chip the truck and I monitor it while driving using a cell phone app. So my truck gets babied and I love the thing.

What would I buy if buying new today? I would look at all three major brands and find the best deal on a truck that really rang my bell. All of the diesels of today are getting more reliable and powerful. There is no denying the track record of some of the legacy motors such as Cummins, but today's trucks are just better IMO. I just wish they weren't so doggone expensive.

And now I could go on to talking about Caterpillar, Detroit, John Deere, Mack, Kenworth, yadayada... But that is not in our purview!

I never can tell when regeneration happen on my vehicles (sometimes the only indication is smell) but 1 time driving long distance I was resetting mpg display to observe how winds affect it.
So once the mpg dropped from 12 down to 9 mpg on 20 miles stretch. There was no noticeable difference in wind to explain such difference, so only conclusion was that I catch it on regeneration.