No power dry camping

And FYI all I am referring to is power to lights, pump etc.

Guys thanks for all the posts. Yes I could have probably said more. Changed out the fuse right by the battery on the positive lead. Didn't look blown but checked anyway. Didn't help. Cables are hooked up to correct terminals. Cut off switch is on. Pulled the reverse polarity fuses. All ok. Still no power. It's ok as I am currently connected to shore power but will take to dealer when I get home tomorrow. Luckily not far from home as I don't like the idea of not having power to the break away switch.

hogcard wrote:
I have no power if not hooked up to campground electric. Battery is fine. What to check?

Not enough info, as the two divergent answers so far point out. Do you mean no power as in no interior lights or no power as in microwave won't work or nopower as in the outlets on the wall are dead?

Both the Battery and the output of the converter/charger which is run by shore power connects to the 12VDC Distribution Panel.

Since yours work fine when on shore power and not when off the power grid it is saying your battery cables are not connected.

First thing you did to look for is to make sure your battery cables are connected properly to the battery terminals... Might just be a loose conenction at the terminals...

Then find the word "NEG" or the symbol "-" printed on the battery case and make sure this is the battery cable that goes to the trailer FRAME GROUND. Hand trace this out to be sure. If this is correct then look for a IN-LINE FUSE (may also be a circuit breaker) close to the battery terminals and make sure this fuse (or breaker) is OK.

The next thing to check is two FUSES on the 12VDC Distribution Panel labeled "REVERSE POLARITY". These will be located off to themself on the panel. Don't replace these fuses if they are blown until you correct the battery cables to their correct position on the battery terinals. Otherwise it will just blow the fuse again if it is incorrectly terminated.

Some installs may have a BATTERY DISCONNECT Switch installed. This will need to be "ON" as well...

If all the above is correct then you should have 12VDC coming from your battery at the BATTERY connection on the 12VDC Distribution Panel...

A MULTIMETER ($7-$15 LOWES/WALMART/Auto Parts stores) is a great thing to have for checking these DC VOLTAGES and to determine where the connection may be opened...

Let us know what you find...

Roy Ken

Not hooked up to campground electric you will ONLY have 12V DC from battery....lights, water pump, furnace, fridge on propane, water heater on propane, radio, exhaust fan. That's it.

No outlets, TV, microwave, A/C.

Now if you don't have 12V DC stuff.....
Check battery disconnect switch in proper position
Check for an in-line fuse/circuit breaker on battery positive cable going to converter being blown/bad
Check on converter for 'large amp fuses' (Reverse Polarity) being blown

Check your fuses in the converter and reset the circuit breakers.

Also, check the cables from the battery to see if a critter has been chewing on them.