Oil usage in Ford 6.8 V10
Using about 1/2 qt or so every 3K miles. Around 100K miles on the clock. Was wondering if others are seeing similar. Did some online checking and it appears that my consumption is deemed within normal...
Forum Discussion
All the metrics matter...not just any one part of the whole system
Most of the wear on ICE's comes from over nite starts. Where the oil
has drained off of the surfaces and the delivery galleries
Why film strength is very important and the filter's anti-drain back
valve likewise very important
Cold viscosity is the first number and is the oils viscosity at room/ambient
temperature. If you live where it gets very cold during the winter, use
the recommended lower first number (there are several weights listed in
most all manuals and is in reference to your area)
Hot viscosity is the second number and is the oils viscosity at running
temperature. If you live in where it gets really hot and/or you drive
hard (towing heavy is one of the hardest) use the higher number listed
in your manual
Bot Racers, serious ones, install pre-oilers, where before starting
or cranking your ICE...an electric oil pump will fill and pressurize
the ICE's oil galleries...this is to have NO DRY starts
Oil filter is not just filtration, but holding capacity and the anti-drain
back valve. Some El Cheapo's do NOT have an anti-drain back valve at all.
Holding capacity both in how much oil it can hold to the amount
of metal particles it can trap...hold and still allow GPH to spec
Dino engine oil has come a looooong ways, but add that the synthetics
have also been improving...film strength is one key area of spec that
applies to this thread. It is in the additive package that improves
the base oil's film strength
The higher the film strength (cold, running temp and ultimate temp)
prevents going metal to metal very often. It is NOT supposed to go
metal to metal, but in our imperfect world...it does too often. Why
I add molybdenum sulfide to most of my lubes...except for anything
with a clutch in there...too slippery for that app
All of mine do not lose oil...except for when driven HARD. Know it is
time to change when the dash oil PSI gauge starts fluctuate and/or PSI
drops below normal. The oil's film strength is gone...or less enough
to notice that
Most of the wear on ICE's comes from over nite starts. Where the oil
has drained off of the surfaces and the delivery galleries
Why film strength is very important and the filter's anti-drain back
valve likewise very important
Cold viscosity is the first number and is the oils viscosity at room/ambient
temperature. If you live where it gets very cold during the winter, use
the recommended lower first number (there are several weights listed in
most all manuals and is in reference to your area)
Hot viscosity is the second number and is the oils viscosity at running
temperature. If you live in where it gets really hot and/or you drive
hard (towing heavy is one of the hardest) use the higher number listed
in your manual
Bot Racers, serious ones, install pre-oilers, where before starting
or cranking your ICE...an electric oil pump will fill and pressurize
the ICE's oil galleries...this is to have NO DRY starts
Oil filter is not just filtration, but holding capacity and the anti-drain
back valve. Some El Cheapo's do NOT have an anti-drain back valve at all.
Holding capacity both in how much oil it can hold to the amount
of metal particles it can trap...hold and still allow GPH to spec
Dino engine oil has come a looooong ways, but add that the synthetics
have also been improving...film strength is one key area of spec that
applies to this thread. It is in the additive package that improves
the base oil's film strength
The higher the film strength (cold, running temp and ultimate temp)
prevents going metal to metal very often. It is NOT supposed to go
metal to metal, but in our imperfect world...it does too often. Why
I add molybdenum sulfide to most of my lubes...except for anything
with a clutch in there...too slippery for that app
All of mine do not lose oil...except for when driven HARD. Know it is
time to change when the dash oil PSI gauge starts fluctuate and/or PSI
drops below normal. The oil's film strength is gone...or less enough
to notice that
