Pickup bed delete or cab chassis (C&C)?

I have had to explain the above to people, but you did a better job.

ticki2 wrote:
If you take a good look at a c&c truck and take some measurements I think you will find that the axle bump stops will prevent the wheels from ever going above the truck frame so there is really no need for a hump above the flatbed unless you have oversized wheels/tires . You just have to watch the flatbed framing so the wheels have a pocket under the deck . The narrower axle on the c&c is the same width as a srw pickup so you can also convert to srw by removing the dually spacers on the front hubs and use srw wheels .

If one side of the axle is in full contact with its bump stop while the opposite side of the axle is furthest away from its bump stop, then the outer shoulder of the tire furthest outboard on the side of the axle in full contact with the bump stop will be higher than the frame.

The axle and tire assembly is a rigid straight line approximately 94" long inclusive of the outer tires in a chassis cab dually, with a radius of 47" from an assumed central pivot point at the pinion.

The chassis cab frame is 34" wide web to web, with the bump stops under slung on the lower flange... so let's call the initial contact point of taper tipped bump stops 1" inboard from the web, supported by a 3" wide flange. Hence, the radius of the initial contact point of the bump stops is 16".

We can make a horizontally level example stick that is 47" long, painted with bright marks at 0", 16", and 47".

We can place this stick on a table that is pushed up against a wall, where the wall has vertical measuring marks on it in one inch increments, where 0" is table height, and 6" is as high as we need to measure.

We can then move our stick on the table such that the 16" mark on the stick aligns with the vertical measuring line on the wall.

If we anchor this stick to the table at the 0" mark on the stick, and fix our gaze at the 16" mark on the stick that coincides with the 0" mark on the wall, while raising the unanchored end of the stick up until the 16" mark is about 5" above the table... how high will the 47" end of the stick be?

5" approximates the maximum axle travel available between the axle and the bump stops. In an extreme twist ditch maneuver, such as what may be encountered crossing a drainage gully over a fire road, one side of the axle may be all the way down in the ditch, while the other side of the axle is compressed all the way up on an embankment.

The 62" difference in width, or 31" difference in radius, between the bump stop versus the outboard edge of the tire (that itself is 16" higher perpendicularly to the axial center of the straight line), dictates that the outer ends of the tires can extend higher than the tops of the frame rails when one end of the axle is in full jounce while the other end of the axle is in full rebound.

Body building guides available from the chassis cab manufacturers recommend making allowances for this.

CO-traveler wrote:
I like the idea of stepping up to 4500 or 5500 CC but I'm getting a GM product (I have a rewards credit card) and their 4500 is just too big for my little driveway and being a daily driver. It's the size of the old Top Kicks or Kodiak. I guess they call that a medium duty.

At this point I'm going either CC or a regular pickup bed dually. Not messing with the bed delete as it just takes away too many packages and options from my build. I went and talked to the fleet sales manager at the local Chevy dealership and he mentioned something about not being able to deliver it to me without some sort of upfitter bed as it would be considered an "incomplete vehicle". So, not sure how that would work as the 2 upfitters I'm looking at are both in Oregon (I'm in Colorado).

If it still turns like the Kodiak. Your can turn around with one. Where the 3500's had to do a 4 point turn. I still have a 2005 Kodiak C5500 with 5.9 cummins and 6 speed Allison trans. But can't fit a truck camper on it. Top of the cab to bed is 56".

If you take a good look at a c&c truck and take some measurements I think you will find that the axle bump stops will prevent the wheels from ever going above the truck frame so there is really no need for a hump above the flatbed unless you have oversized wheels/tires . You just have to watch the flatbed framing so the wheels have a pocket under the deck . The narrower axle on the c&c is the same width as a srw pickup so you can also convert to srw by removing the dually spacers on the front hubs and use srw wheels .

If I were doing it I’d build a custom flatbed that had wheelwells, so the camper floor surface couid be set lower like with a pickup bed.
I wouldn’t set my camper on a completely flat bed that has to be mounted all the way above the tires.
That just puts the camper too high up.

That’s why I mentioned the pickup dually having the wider axle which gives you room to do that.

cptqueeg wrote:


Thanks, I have been looking at GM's C&C page and have no intention of getting a 550/5500 under any circumstances. It's just complete and total overkill for me.

My aluminum bed F350 is more than enough to carry 7000 lb of camper and tow light boat. I only wish it would have option for longer CA for better stability.
Technology change fast in last years and Ford made huge difference going from steel to aluminum beds. When I was ordering my truck, most of forum advise was to modify the suspension and go with higher differential ratio. I had faith in new diesel engine and order lowest differential available. The beast was hauling 9000lb of cargo on 6% grades without dropping from overdrive and with 7000 lb camper my rear was still 2" higher than front.
Don't follow the competition, but I assume it is only matter of time they do the same.
Have fun making the choice.

I like the idea of stepping up to 4500 or 5500 CC but I'm getting a GM product (I have a rewards credit card) and their 4500 is just too big for my little driveway and being a daily driver. It's the size of the old Top Kicks or Kodiak. I guess they call that a medium duty.

At this point I'm going either CC or a regular pickup bed dually. Not messing with the bed delete as it just takes away too many packages and options from my build. I went and talked to the fleet sales manager at the local Chevy dealership and he mentioned something about not being able to deliver it to me without some sort of upfitter bed as it would be considered an "incomplete vehicle". So, not sure how that would work as the 2 upfitters I'm looking at are both in Oregon (I'm in Colorado).

In response to the bed delete, my brother just got a Ford Tremor, special order with his options. The bed delete was obscenely cheap...as in zero credit to apply elsewhere. He kept it vs. flat bed by others.

Cab and chassis has flat frame (heavier) all the way back from the cab, and standard frame width, box delete has hump where the rear axle is. If you want to mount a deck, get the cab and chassis model, all manufactured decks will fit the frame. Check frame to cab height and build accordingly.

Noarp, one of my favorite rigs!
Haven’t even used our new trailer save for driveway camping when it was 100deg in the house last week and I’m already planning/threatening to dump it for another TC!