Ram Pucks

I think it depends on the year of the truck your looking at. If its 14 or 15 and even maybe the 13, not sure on that year because they changed the frame on the 13 or 14, then I'd go with the setup from Ram if its available after market. I had a 12 that I installed the Reese elite setup in, wasn't bad at all to install but now my 15 has the factory puck system in it and it uses a much bigger footprint than the Reese so I feel it spreads the weight out better. If the system is available from Ram then have them install it if you don't feel you want to mess with it.

Just be aware the kit for a 2500 is different than the 3500 kit. My dealer messed up and ordered a 2500 kit for my 3500. Took a few min for me to figure out it was wrong. Lol. The 3500 has "pockets" the pucks sit in, on the 2500 the front pucks bolt to the side to the frame, IIRC. Assuming the difference is the coil spring vs the 3500's leaf spring suspension.

Directions said to remove the bed, but I only lifted one side at a time. Took me about 2 hrs total.

To be clear the 4 puck system loads the hitch directly to the frame. The TurnoverBall system has the base of the Companion hitch set directly on the low portion of the bed corrugation that sits solid on the bed cross members that sit directly on the frame.

The OLD 18K companion base DID set on the top corrugation of the bed. It was designed to work with a more solid bed as in years past.

Towing at or under 20K go with the 20K Companion with TurnOverBall. Over use the 4 pucks and the 25K Companion.

The single hole in the middle which I believe is the turnover ball attaches at one point in the middle but the hitch rests in the truck bed directly over the frame. I suppose on uplift it's pulling in the middle but for all of the load carrying I can't see any real difference to the pucks.

I just did the pucks on my new 2500. Was kind of easy. I did not have to lift bed at all. I just laid on my back and did it all. After it was torqued down I used hole saw and done. Took about 3.5 hours. Took my time. I really like the system. I use the Reese picture fram for ram. Also use the Reese r16 hitch.

Removing the RVK3500 is pretty easy 1 bolt is all it takes and it is just loosened or tightened not removed takes less than a minute. Having one it works well and am plenty pleased with it but nothing wrong with the puck system either. My truck didn't come with the pucks and I already had an RVK3500 from my previous truck. Made more sense to me to just install the turnoverball than it did to buy a new hitch (turnover ball $400 vs new hitch for pucks 1300, plus the pucks another $4-500.
My neighbors does have them. He went to show it to me was going to remove the puck covers couldn't get them off, nothing a pair of channel locks couldn't deal with easy enough. He as I do use our trucks for other work besides just pulling a trailer once in awhile could be some dirt/rock grit got up in there a bit

Me Again wrote:
Have the punks and the pin weigh directly on the frame rails is better than the bed floor carrying the weight. Chris

X2...puck system much better

Jerry

Have the punks and the pin weigh directly on the frame rails is better than the bed floor carrying the weight. Chris

Thanks for all the replies. I looked at some YouTube videos of the B&W Companion RVK3500 that StickDog mentioned and another Companion model that uses the stock pucks. Both look very nice, but the one that uses the pucks seems to be easier to install/remove. The RVK3500 requires loosening nuts for removal and torking same when installing.

2012Coleman wrote:
I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a slightly used 3500 Ram. A few of the ones I'm interested in do not have the fifth wheel puck system in the bed. Is this something I could get installed at the dealer - and would it include the in-bed harness plug?

I know some on here have done this themselves, but I'm not that adventurous.

Yep, I've done it myself in my 2014 RAM 2500. The dealer can do it but I have no idea what they would charge. I installed the 5ht wheel pucks and then later the gooseneck as well. In the end I still came out a little cheaper for my OEM 5th and gooseneck kits plus the Curt Q20 hitch, but not a great amount.

If the 3500 is a '13 or newer model then the OEM system is an option for you. If the truck is '12 or older then B&W is your only option. Either the OEM or the B&W systems will work just fine for you. I tend to like the idea of the hitch putting the pressure directly on the 4 corners of the frame in the OEM setup. But that's probably more preference than any real structural difference.

KJ