We are looking at getting a travel trailer. As we have looked though different trailers the desires change and where I first set a limit to a 20-24 ft travel trailer has now expanded to 30 ft and much greater weight. Here is what I have. Tow vehicle is a 09 F150 supercrew 4x4 with 3.55 gears and 5.4L. Per Ford I can tow 9700 lbs. Max GCWR is 15,500. Truck does have the towing package on it. Per CAT (certified scale)and this is the truck full of fuel and how I would be towing. No human weight included but it's just 2 adults and a dog. Steer Axle 3260Drive Axles 2540Total Weight 5800Per the door sticker7200 GVWRFront 3750Rear 3850Now for the trailers. Keystone Bullet Premier 19 FBPRLength 23'2"Shipping Weight 4213No GVWR listed on site but with 2287 for cargo weight I am guessing it's 6500.Hitch is 410Jacyo 24T (For 2014 this will be a White Hawk 24RBS so weights may change)Length 27'8Shipping Weight 4465GVWR 6250Hitch 545Artic Fox 22gLength 23' 10"Weight 4678GVWR 7500Hitch 550Artic Fox 25PLength 27'1"Weight 6470GVWR 10,000Hitch 870Artic Fox 25YLength 30'Weight 6853GVWR 10kHitch 760So there are the trailer choices. I would like the larger Artic Fox eith the 25P or 25Y however I'm concerned over the weight and how much the truck will struggle. I will also add there is no chance in upgrading the truck for at least 5 years. I'm also not looking to buy a shorter trailer now and upgrade when I get a bigger truck. I want to buy a trailer now and have it paid off when the new truck comes. So I guess the question is how will a 1/2 ton tow 7200 lbs around? I also don't see us as heavy campers meaning we have to bring everything including the kitchen sink. I have camped many years ago and we only bring what we need and camp light. I also never travel with full water or waste tanks. I have a feeling we will end up in either the Bullet or the Artic Fox 22G. Problem with Artic Fox is the closet dealer is 6+ hrs away but that's a different concern.

Any one of the first 3.Due you have a tow package?Ford tow package used to include 3.73.if you have 4 sp,you are going to spend a lot of time in 2nd and 3rd if you come out west

It will tow that much but I don't think you will be happy with the results. It will struggle on the hills and fuel mileage will be abysmal. That much weight might push you around on steep downgrades. I honestly believe you should stick to around 5,000 lb to leave a comfortable margin.

RWDIII wrote:Any one of the first 3.Due you have a tow package?Ford tow package used to include 3.73.if you have 4 sp,you are going to spend a lot of time in 2nd and 3rd if you come out westThey must of changed it with the 09. I do have the tow package but have the 3.55 rear end. Transmission is the 6 speed.

romore wrote:It will tow that much but I don't think you will be happy with the results. It will struggle on the hills and fuel mileage will be abysmal. That much weight might push you around on steep downgrades. I honestly believe you should stick to around 5,000 lb to leave a comfortable margin.That is what I am thinking too but the what if question keeps coming in. Also what changed is we now want a couch and a dinette. That means adding length which adds weight. I am also very picky on floor plans, windows etc. I can tell you I have been looking for 2+ years and haven't found that perfect trailer.

I am going to guess you will get many opinions here but here is mine: don't even look at a trailer with a 10k GWR. It is too heavy for your truck. The others should be OK.

Realistic 1/2 ton towing | Good Sam Community

36 Replies

elkhornsun
Explorer
Sep 18, 2013
If the maximum is 9700 lbs. that is not the amount I would expect the truck to tow on a regular basis up mountain grades and in the deserts and at high elevations. You may be able lift and carry a 100 lb. backpack but you do not want to carry that amount of weight all over the sierras.

I would also allow for passenger weight in the cab and water, etc. in the holding tanks, extra batteries, and other items that are not included in the trailer manufacturer's published weight figures.

I would also take into consideration the high 3.55 gears of your truck which help Ford to get a better EPA highway mileage number but hurt the truck's towing ability. Acceleration getting into traffic on a freeway or passing a tractor trailer rig going 20 MPH up a steep grade or even grade control with engine braking is going to be compromised with the 3.55 gears.

Your truck is at the bottom end of the tow vehicle spectrum and the trailer choice should be matched as you are attempting to do. Personally I would keep the dry trailer weight under 5,000 lbs. and expect that when fully loaded for a trip it will weigh about 6,000 lbs. which is a comfortable weight to be towing with your truck.

With a trailer my primary concern would be that there was adequate space for everyone to comfortably sleep you and your fellow travelers. The "sleeps 4" often means two adults and 2 small children and not 4 full size people. I would also check out the holding tanks' capacities as this can affect how long you can camp at spots where there are not full hookups.
rayford118
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
bmanning wrote:
smkettner wrote:
Terryallan wrote:
smkettner wrote:
The Texan, I did not say the larger trailer would not work. Just that they are over my general guideline for a new RVer. Saying if towing at the very max the OP needs to adjust his expectations. Everyone is different. Very doable for some and white knuckles for others. I have no inclination on what type person the OP or DW might be. You or me might go 12,000+ gvwr trailer but that does not mean I would call it slam dunk easy for everyone.

Only indication was the word "realistic" in the title. Not "I need to figure out how to tow this" or "what is the very max" or "just bought the trailer, must make it work"

In all honesty. The GVWR of the trailer is a useless number. Few people actually add 2500 lb to the trailer. The national average is 1000 lb. We added 900 to our's. So even though my trailer GVWR is 7200lbs. The trailer actually weighs 5700, a far cry from the GVWR./ So it is highly unlikely that any one of those trailer would ever be close to 10000lbs.

Having said that, a dry weight of 6400, or 6800 is a little much for that truck. If it was a 2 wheel drive. I'd say go for it. But as it's a 4x4. I'd stay with a lighter TT.
You are sorta talking a different story out of each side of your mouth :R

If a person has to ask, I will continue to recommend keeping the trailer GVWR within the tow vehicle tow rating. OK they might end up at less than the very max but I think that is the point when new to the RV towing scene.
Not exactly easy for a beginner
I will contend that dry weights are even more usless because with options etc the delivery weight commonly exceeds the brochure dry weight. Where as it is very unusual to load a trailer over GVWR.

The very best is to load up and hit the scales but by then you own it so good luck with that too. Not exactly easy for a beginner.

Not trying to ruffle any feathers, but I don't think towing is some magical skill that needs to be acquired over years of trial-and-error. I think in general towing "as a skill" gets inflated on the forum.

To me, it's common sense, being careful, learning what to do and (more importantly) what not to do when it comes to loading and hitching up. I remember my dear old mom towing our TTs in the 70s and 80s sometimes when Dad got stuck at work (he'd drive out and meet us at the campground later).

She wasn't exactly some hardened trucker with years of experience, she just used her head and drove appropriately and we always got there, drama-free.

Give me a reasonable person who's willing to be careful and do some homework up front and their first tow will likely go as well as their 100th.

THIS!!!!!
Terryallan
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2013
smkettner wrote:
Terryallan wrote:
smkettner wrote:
The Texan, I did not say the larger trailer would not work. Just that they are over my general guideline for a new RVer. Saying if towing at the very max the OP needs to adjust his expectations. Everyone is different. Very doable for some and white knuckles for others. I have no inclination on what type person the OP or DW might be. You or me might go 12,000+ gvwr trailer but that does not mean I would call it slam dunk easy for everyone.

Only indication was the word "realistic" in the title. Not "I need to figure out how to tow this" or "what is the very max" or "just bought the trailer, must make it work"

In all honesty. The GVWR of the trailer is a useless number. Few people actually add 2500 lb to the trailer. The national average is 1000 lb. We added 900 to our's. So even though my trailer GVWR is 7200lbs. The trailer actually weighs 5700, a far cry from the GVWR./ So it is highly unlikely that any one of those trailer would ever be close to 10000lbs.

Having said that, a dry weight of 6400, or 6800 is a little much for that truck. If it was a 2 wheel drive. I'd say go for it. But as it's a 4x4. I'd stay with a lighter TT.

You are sorta talking a different story out of each side of your mouth :R
n

I will contend that dry weights are even more usless because with options etc the delivery weight commonly exceeds the brochure dry weight. Where as it is very unusual to load a trailer over GVWR.

.

Not with a new TT. The yellow sticker on the TT is the exact weight of the TT you see sitting in front of you. A buyer no longer has to even consider the brochure weight, if they can get to the lot
So in fact the delivered weight is on the sticker, and if the dealer adds anything. Rare now days. He has to update the sticker.
No one goes by the brochure any more.

Didn't understand the double talk part.
bmanning
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
smkettner wrote:
Terryallan wrote:
smkettner wrote:
The Texan, I did not say the larger trailer would not work. Just that they are over my general guideline for a new RVer. Saying if towing at the very max the OP needs to adjust his expectations. Everyone is different. Very doable for some and white knuckles for others. I have no inclination on what type person the OP or DW might be. You or me might go 12,000+ gvwr trailer but that does not mean I would call it slam dunk easy for everyone.

Only indication was the word "realistic" in the title. Not "I need to figure out how to tow this" or "what is the very max" or "just bought the trailer, must make it work"

In all honesty. The GVWR of the trailer is a useless number. Few people actually add 2500 lb to the trailer. The national average is 1000 lb. We added 900 to our's. So even though my trailer GVWR is 7200lbs. The trailer actually weighs 5700, a far cry from the GVWR./ So it is highly unlikely that any one of those trailer would ever be close to 10000lbs.

Having said that, a dry weight of 6400, or 6800 is a little much for that truck. If it was a 2 wheel drive. I'd say go for it. But as it's a 4x4. I'd stay with a lighter TT.
You are sorta talking a different story out of each side of your mouth :R

If a person has to ask, I will continue to recommend keeping the trailer GVWR within the tow vehicle tow rating. OK they might end up at less than the very max but I think that is the point when new to the RV towing scene.
Not exactly easy for a beginner
I will contend that dry weights are even more usless because with options etc the delivery weight commonly exceeds the brochure dry weight. Where as it is very unusual to load a trailer over GVWR.

The very best is to load up and hit the scales but by then you own it so good luck with that too. Not exactly easy for a beginner.

Not trying to ruffle any feathers, but I don't think towing is some magical skill that needs to be acquired over years of trial-and-error. I think in general towing "as a skill" gets inflated on the forum.

To me, it's common sense, being careful, learning what to do and (more importantly) what not to do when it comes to loading and hitching up. I remember my dear old mom towing our TTs in the 70s and 80s sometimes when Dad got stuck at work (he'd drive out and meet us at the campground later).

She wasn't exactly some hardened trucker with years of experience, she just used her head and drove appropriately and we always got there, drama-free.

Give me a reasonable person who's willing to be careful and do some homework up front and their first tow will likely go as well as their 100th.
2edgesword
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
Maybe I'm missing something but if the maximum tow vehicle weight is 7,200 lbs (GVWR) and the CAT weight was 5800 lbs, adding in 400 lbs for passengers (including dog) and a few incidentals, you're at 6,200 lbs. That leaves you a maximum of 1,000 lbs of tongue weight.

If you use the 12% of trailer weight as your tongue weight then the maximum trailer weight (loaded) would be about 8,300 lbs (8,300 x 0.12 = 996 lbs). Assuming proper weight distribution (front and rear axles) any of the trailers would be o.k. BUT you would have to limited the load on the Artic Fox 25P and 25Y to well below there maximum gross weight.

The vehicle should tow an 8,300 lbs trailer with no struggle on flat terrain but as the grades get steeper the vehicle is designed to downshift to handle the load. That downshifting takes some getting use to but as long as you stay within the manufacturers loading recommendations I don't see an issue with long term reliability. Yes, more truck is always desirable but you have to balance out the time spent towing versus the time spent driving the truck solo.
time2roll
Nomad
Sep 16, 2013
Terryallan wrote:
smkettner wrote:
The Texan, I did not say the larger trailer would not work. Just that they are over my general guideline for a new RVer. Saying if towing at the very max the OP needs to adjust his expectations. Everyone is different. Very doable for some and white knuckles for others. I have no inclination on what type person the OP or DW might be. You or me might go 12,000+ gvwr trailer but that does not mean I would call it slam dunk easy for everyone.

Only indication was the word "realistic" in the title. Not "I need to figure out how to tow this" or "what is the very max" or "just bought the trailer, must make it work"

In all honesty. The GVWR of the trailer is a useless number. Few people actually add 2500 lb to the trailer. The national average is 1000 lb. We added 900 to our's. So even though my trailer GVWR is 7200lbs. The trailer actually weighs 5700, a far cry from the GVWR./ So it is highly unlikely that any one of those trailer would ever be close to 10000lbs.

Having said that, a dry weight of 6400, or 6800 is a little much for that truck. If it was a 2 wheel drive. I'd say go for it. But as it's a 4x4. I'd stay with a lighter TT.
You are sorta talking a different story out of each side of your mouth :R

If a person has to ask, I will continue to recommend keeping the trailer GVWR within the tow vehicle tow rating. OK they might end up at less than the very max but I think that is the point when new to the RV towing scene.

I will contend that dry weights are even more usless because with options etc the delivery weight commonly exceeds the brochure dry weight. Where as it is very unusual to load a trailer over GVWR.

The very best is to load up and hit the scales but by then you own it so good luck with that too. Not exactly easy for a beginner.
puttd
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
I don't drive a ford, but I drive a Dodge Durango Hemi. I have a Bullet 281 BHS (ie 32 feet). Tow capacity on the Durango is 7500ish. I have added Bilsteins for stability and I have a serious WDH, and upgraded brakes and a good controller. Weight-wise, I have no prob with the bullet, with is 5100 lbs. And I have been everywhere in Colorado.

But I have been towing for a while. And I know how to downshift in mountains. I talked with one gentleman with a small popup with a 250 who nearly drove himself off the tetons because he didn't know about first and second gear and tried to brake his way all the way down the mountain :E.

Alot has to do with 1) your personal experience in towing. 2) What have you done with your equipment. 3) How careful are you with loading. My old pop up (coleman niagra) was a bear if you did not load the front correctly because it was very tail heavy.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2013
smkettner wrote:
The Texan, I did not say the larger trailer would not work. Just that they are over my general guideline for a new RVer. Saying if towing at the very max the OP needs to adjust his expectations. Everyone is different. Very doable for some and white knuckles for others. I have no inclination on what type person the OP or DW might be. You or me might go 12,000+ gvwr trailer but that does not mean I would call it slam dunk easy for everyone.

Only indication was the word "realistic" in the title. Not "I need to figure out how to tow this" or "what is the very max" or "just bought the trailer, must make it work"

In all honesty. The GVWR of the trailer is a useless number. Few people actually add 2500 lb to the trailer. The national average is 1000 lb. We added 900 to our's. So even though my trailer GVWR is 7200lbs. The trailer actually weighs 5700, a far cry from the GVWR./ So it is highly unlikely that any one of those trailer would ever be close to 10000lbs.

Having said that, a dry weight of 6400, or 6800 is a little much for that truck. If it was a 2 wheel drive. I'd say go for it. But as it's a 4x4. I'd stay with a lighter TT.
3_0charlie
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
I believe the listed trailer TWs are dry TWs.
I do own the Sherline scale, great little tool and great manual.
Peg_Leg
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
All of the tongue weights listed seem to be on the lite side. You need 10-12% of the gross on the tongue. A lite tongue will cause sway. I agree that you have 900 lbs available for your load. Give this site a read.

http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm

A WD hitch will shift a percentage of the tongue weight to the front axle and some back onto the TT's axles. Being near the max ratings is going to require you to do some research to get your trucks limits. Once your armed with the specs it will help eliminate rigs that you know won't meet your needs. Get a good WD hitch with built in sway control.

One major thing I took away from your problem is that you haven't yet decided exactly on what you want. Planning to keep the rig through the ownership of this truck and into the next means a long term commitment. This would require that you find a floorplan that your happy with. You need to sit down and make a list of what you want and things you don't want. Don't settle for something you don't like, keep looking. The rig you want is out there, you just have to find it.

Your money ahead of others that bought a rig and then had to upgrade this or that because they didn't check things before hand. Good luck finding that perfect combo. I see many happy memories awaiting you.