Reese strait line.
Having a little trouble with my weight distribution hitch with new tow vehicle. Had 2500 ram for years, switched to 1/2 ton for a while, and now back to 2500. I cannot seem to get enough pressure and ...
Forum Discussion
Assuming it's installed properly, do you know your actual tongue weight and do you have the correct spring bar rating?
I had this problem at first on our new TT. Just could not get enough weight back onto the steer axle no matter what I did. The spring bars were curved like bananas (exaggerated a bit for emphasis). The rear end of the TT bobbed up and down like a duck in water (not good). Went to a scale and discovered that the dry TW had gone from 540 lbs dry to around 950 lbs actual. (The TW works out to around 14.5% which is above the average of 12-13%.) I had pre-purchased 800 lb rated bars thinking that'd be plenty. Bought a new set of 1200 lb bars and problem solved. Took me a long time with our Reese DC WDH to fiddle with all the parameters to get it right. When it was, it was like wow!
Note that Reese is different than the other WDH manufacturers. Their bar ratings are defined by TW plus cargo in the TV. This will in itself mean a higher bar rating figure. Also note that when you get over 1000 lbs you may need to upgrade the mounting of the cam arm brackets and snap-up brackets plus the snap-up brackets may need to be their heavy duty ones. One other thing is that a full holding tank can really throw off the adjustment of where the cam arm lobes sit in the "crooks" in the bar ends depending on tank location. The lobes/crooks MUST be centered. You'll want to monitor this in the initial set up phase as you do more and more miles/trips.
Our TT is 29' and almost 7K lbs and we tow it with an F250. After dialing in the WDH and getting it as good as it was going to get, the last thing I did was get the trailer slightly nose down. Had to use a ball with a 1" rise and could only find one online. Made a noticeable improvement. That was 4 seasons ago and haven't had to touch the WDH since. No sway (woohoo)!
I had this problem at first on our new TT. Just could not get enough weight back onto the steer axle no matter what I did. The spring bars were curved like bananas (exaggerated a bit for emphasis). The rear end of the TT bobbed up and down like a duck in water (not good). Went to a scale and discovered that the dry TW had gone from 540 lbs dry to around 950 lbs actual. (The TW works out to around 14.5% which is above the average of 12-13%.) I had pre-purchased 800 lb rated bars thinking that'd be plenty. Bought a new set of 1200 lb bars and problem solved. Took me a long time with our Reese DC WDH to fiddle with all the parameters to get it right. When it was, it was like wow!
Note that Reese is different than the other WDH manufacturers. Their bar ratings are defined by TW plus cargo in the TV. This will in itself mean a higher bar rating figure. Also note that when you get over 1000 lbs you may need to upgrade the mounting of the cam arm brackets and snap-up brackets plus the snap-up brackets may need to be their heavy duty ones. One other thing is that a full holding tank can really throw off the adjustment of where the cam arm lobes sit in the "crooks" in the bar ends depending on tank location. The lobes/crooks MUST be centered. You'll want to monitor this in the initial set up phase as you do more and more miles/trips.
Our TT is 29' and almost 7K lbs and we tow it with an F250. After dialing in the WDH and getting it as good as it was going to get, the last thing I did was get the trailer slightly nose down. Had to use a ball with a 1" rise and could only find one online. Made a noticeable improvement. That was 4 seasons ago and haven't had to touch the WDH since. No sway (woohoo)!
