removing air from tires on stationary site...

Thank you all for the input. Again it is stationary, even in the winter. I do not have TV to pull it I wanted to. By no means did I intend to simply use the stabilizer stands only. I agree with Gdetrailer and will be looking to do this soon.

westernrvparkowner wrote:
Whatever you do, don't use cinder blocks. They are not designed to support that much weight. When one cracks, which it will, there will be additional stress on the rest of them, and you will have a serious malfunction. Use solid concrete blocks, or solid wood, like railroad ties.
Personally, I wouldn't give up the ability to move the rig, and move it quickly. But if it is allowed where you intend to place it, it is your choice.

WOW! Millions and millions of homes have basements and support pillars made of cement blocks. My person house is totally supported by cement blocks, and its two stories, 4 bedrooms, three baths and 2600 square feet are holding up quite well, thank you!

With that in mind, I suspect they will support a 6000 pound trailer.

westernrvparkowner wrote:
Whatever you do, don't use cinder blocks. They are not designed to support that much weight. When one cracks, which it will, there will be additional stress on the rest of them, and you will have a serious malfunction. Use solid concrete blocks, or solid wood, like railroad ties.
Personally, I wouldn't give up the ability to move the rig, and move it quickly. But if it is allowed where you intend to place it, it is your choice.

Umm.. perhaps you NEED to tell ALL of the millions of MOBILE HOME OWNERS this..

First of all, the blocks you get now days are CEMENT BLOCKS, NOT "CINDER" blocks.

Second of all, CEMENT BLOCKS are the main way mobile homes are set (I KNOW THIS VERY WELL since I OWNED a mobile home at one time). Not to mention know quite a few owners of mobile homes over the years and have never seen a broken block or a mobile home that fell off the blocks.

To use cement blocks correctly you MUST set them with the cell openings top and bottom.

Under no circumstances should you lay the blocks on the sides or stand them up (ends up and down).

Cement blocks have the greatest strength ONLY with the cell openings up and down.

Then you make pilasters by placing two blocks side by side, next layer turn the blocks so that layer is now running across from the first..

You can put a wide block of wood over top the last set of blocks, this will cushion the blocks from any quick drop and spread the weight across the block

Doing so makes a safe, stable stack.

Whatever you do, don't use cinder blocks. They are not designed to support that much weight. When one cracks, which it will, there will be additional stress on the rest of them, and you will have a serious malfunction. Use solid concrete blocks, or solid wood, like railroad ties.
Personally, I wouldn't give up the ability to move the rig, and move it quickly. But if it is allowed where you intend to place it, it is your choice.

al7601 wrote:
trying to get my TT as solid as possible to avoid rocking. We have a 33 ft with 2 slides, 1 on each side. Stabilizer jacks on each corner and 4 jack stands towards the middle, 2 on each side on opposite sides of the tires. My buddy told me to remove air from the tires to have the TT rest on the stands. Prior to doing so I would add probably 4 columns of cinder blocks. I have 0 plans on moving the TT anytime soon but was wondering if anyone else had done this and how its been.

It is possible to remove the air out of the tires, BUT, perhaps consider DIGGING down a bit where the tires will rest..

This will allow you to get the trailer down closer to the ground without needing to remove air or the tires or the need for a lot of blocks.

THEN do your blocking thing, blocks at each corner AND blocks as close to the axles as possible.

You will find that blocks near the axle ARE required to reduce the bounce in the center..

Block up, add some wood shims to fill in then a wedge of wood for the final adjustments.

As a side note, some areas as long as you have wheels/tires attached to your structure it is not considered a "permanent" structure and no increased taxes.

Removing the wheels and tires is often considered permanent and extra property taxes will be assessed.

As a few on here have said, the frame needs to be well supported but if you think about it, the axles are mounted to the frame in a fairly narrow band and the frame there, and up front for the tongue carry all the weight and stress of a fully loaded trailer bouncing down the road. Among the concerns folks have brought up, I would also mention that unless the tires are off the ground or removed, they could crack from the bend of the rubber folding flat along the ground where the tire has settled. Not sure if I am getting my point across.

In the early 1970's, I was deeply involved in the mobile home industry. A travel trailer today is very much the same structurally as those mobile homes.
To make the trailer level and without any motion, the entire frame must be supported, dispersing weight throughout the frame rails and the suspension not carrying any weight. To accomplish this:
1. Park trailer in desired location, reasonably level.
2. Place 30 inch or longer level on trailer floor where it can be seen without entering the trailer.
3. Level the trailer front to back using the tongue jack.
4. Use a 10 ton bottle jack to raise the trailer positioning it directly on the frame rail immediately forward of wheels.
4. On the side of the trailer that is lowest, raise it up to it now being higher than the other side.
5. Using concrete blocks with a solid block on the ground, stack blocks until they closely reach trailer. Blocks should be stacked so that are structurally sound.
6. There should be least 3 stacks of the concrete blocks for a 25 foot trailer. One between the back and the wheels. One just front of the wheels. One at the front. All of them must be supporting the frame rail. Longer trailers use two stacks behind the wheels and more stacks in the front spaced equally from front of the wheels to the very front of the trailer.
6. Position one pressure treated 2x6 cut 16 inches long on top of the concrete blocks. Then position two wooden wedges, made from pressure treated 2x4's, with the slim edges opposing each other. If there is not room for the wood, dick odown in the earth for the blocks.
7. With a hammer, drive the wedges tight against the frame rail.
8. Repeat the process on the other side of the trailer, jacking it up until it is level.
9. Some, if not all, of trailer weight should have been removed from the wheels. The tires and wheels can be safely removed from the trailer since all of the trailer weight is now evenly distributed along the frame rails and completely supported by the blocks.
10. Remove any weight from the tongue using the tongue jack.
11. The trailer is now rock solid.
12. If the trailer has slideouts, deploy them before executing this procedure.

Like any mobile home any 33' TT can be jacked and blocked without bending the frame. Nor do they require the trailer to be bolted to a concrete foundation to be solid.
We lived in our 32' 5er for 7 months one winter. I cut up 3' rr ties for cribbing. The unit was rock solid.
My tires had 2"x 8" under them so they didn't get wet or contact the ground. I also skirted the unit to keep out the cold. For 7 months I keep the tires at max pressures.

Don't jack against the frame from a single point when raising a heavy trailer.
Block both ends and a couple (even more if you like) of points evenly spaced between the ends.
Be aware those blocks can settle after hard rains so they may need re-adjustment.
Your local mobile home servicing dealer can give you pointers if your setting up for several years.

My opinion, it is YOUR camper. Do what you want. Take the tires right off, and get it lower to the ground if that helps. As other have said, make sure you don't twist the frame, which is VERY easy to do. You will find out when doors don't open and close properly.

Sigh. Lots of naysayers here.

If you use enough support....you can definitely remove the air out of the tires or the entire wheel assys if you want.

Stabilizers are just that......so you'll want, at a minimum, one jack stand at each corner and one beside each wheel assy.......for a total of 8.


Axle or jack stands......what's the difference?


You can firm it up even more with additional jackstands.