Removing Black and gray water tanks

I see Florida , many cities and counties are taxing as real property improvements any RV in an obvious permanent installation . As we do not know your site you might ask the land owner if this is a consideration . In Port Orange Florida this caused many permanent porches , car ports and extra rooms to accrue to the land owner an increased ad valorm tax .

First thought, why? /Will you own it forever? What will a potential next owner think about no tanks?

Grey water, just let it flow. Black tank, close valve and dump every couple of days (avoids solids buildup easily). Keeping them on avoids major plumbing work too.

Ralph

lawrosa wrote:
Should be straight forward IMO.. Im a plumber and the thing that I see with mine is the toiler piping..

My toilet flange is part of the tank. One the tank is removed I believe you will need to replace the flange with a resisdention one and pipe in 3" pvc..

You'll also have to find and disconnect the vent from this tank and plumb it accordingly.. Installing a residential toilet then would be best also IMO..

Then the gray tank would have the same issue kind of but easier. Again now you have another vent to deal with..

But if you pipe to local plumbibg could and pipe it right you can do away with one of the vents...

This is how it should look but ignore the stack vent on the right. This you will not have.

Youll only utilize the vent you have now going through the rv roof. That will be the vent stack / branch vent shown here. But it will go straight up ..

You WILL need to measure the clearances for the toilet BEFORE committing to this. Most RV toilets are installed very close to walls and or cabinets and RV toilets tend to be considerably smaller than a residential toilet.

You will need to measure the distance of the flange to the back wall/cabinet and the distance from flange to side wall/cabinet.

Then at your local home store you will need to find a toilet that has the trap outlet flange/mounting point in the correct position and the toilet won't set to far back.

Check the bowl size to make sure it will clear side walls and even door openings.

Some mfgs. glued down pipes to tanks------some use a grommet

You will find out when you go to remove.

Toilet floor flanges are same as residential

Putting a residential toilet in sounds good........but RV toilets don't have tanks and sit back close to wall. Usually NOT enough room for tank/toilet w/o re-positioning toilet IF there is room to do that (probably NOT)

Just remember to make any/all cuts close to tanks so that you have as much of OEM piping to make connecting to easier. Hate it when you come up 1" short :B

Permits???

Should be straight forward IMO.. Im a plumber and the thing that I see with mine is the toiler piping..

My toilet flange is part of the tank. One the tank is removed I believe you will need to replace the flange with a resisdention one and pipe in 3" pvc..

You'll also have to find and disconnect the vent from this tank and plumb it accordingly.. Installing a residential toilet then would be best also IMO..

Then the gray tank would have the same issue kind of but easier. Again now you have another vent to deal with..

But if you pipe to local plumbibg could and pipe it right you can do away with one of the vents...

This is how it should look but ignore the stack vent on the right. This you will not have.

Youll only utilize the vent you have now going through the rv roof. That will be the vent stack / branch vent shown here. But it will go straight up ..

Yes, there may be glue-up fittings from the tanks to drains, tank to vents. My black tank had a glue-up fitting to the tank but a threaded fitting to the closet flange. The vent was glue up all the way to the roof. The Sawzall makes any problem with removal, moot. At the worst, you may have to replace the closet flange and add in some drains from the main drain to vents. Since this is all ABS, it is an easy task.
Good luck with your plumbing!