Repairing window leaks

Just to add a bit more...

If you are removing a window that is stuck with Butyl tape get ready for a real chore.
A hair dryer is really helpful to loosen the tape... Believe me, it is not going to pop right off like the video showed if the window is properly sealed.

Jim

In response to Reddog1's post I will add that this picture is of a window off of a 1986 Bigfoot and the pix was probably taken in 2011, the window had never been off this camper.
You will notice that there was no contact with the Butyl tape in the area he is pointing out.
There never was a seal!

Had this been a wood framed camper it would have been a goner!



Jim

My experience has been the same as bigfootford's. The bytal take does a much better job, especially if you have to use more than one layer. Personally, I will never use the clay type tape again, and will not even consider silicon seal.

I prefer to have the tape stick out at least 1/8" all around the frame. When you tighten the screws, it squeezes out and it is much easier to see that it is sealed all around the frame. I trim around the entire window with a plastic putty knife. This photo gives you an idea as to what can happen if not installed properly.




This photo may help you identify the correct tape.




Wayne

Thanks for the info. I understand why a window is removed now.

Ralph

WoodGlue wrote:
Yes, there is a gasket seal (butyl)

Here is a video on how to do it:

How To Reseal - Reset A RV Window

Common problem.

WoodGlue

If you watch the video question the fact that the siding of this rv is not flat. So real care should be taken that you have enough thickness of the tape to fill the gaps.

If you notice, when the window came off the rig there was NO putty tape stuck or very few places to the siding of the RV!!!!!! That is really bad.. And take into the fact that this is probably a fairly new RV too.

Properly sealed windows do not come off very easy!

Notice that the RV tech said that the Butyl tape will probably never need to be replaced. I believe that is true if you get a good seal all the way around when you replace the old sealer.

Also, I would not finalize the torque on the window screws with a drill like the RV tech did.
You run a chance of stripping the existing screws and then you have defeated you goal resealing the window.
I use a hand too to finish the torque... Either a ratchet or driver with a handle. As close to even torque on all the screws as you can get.

The reason I say this is when I re-torqued my windows after the leaking one was fixed I found several screws on other windows that were stripped. I had to drill new holes and add screws.... Really pissed me off!!!!

I would not use silicone or any sealer after replacing the window seal.. It is not needed nor desired. The Butyl tape is going to ooze. What is going to happen to the silicone?



Jim

I have found in some cases that the windows were not installed with enough Butyl tape to fill the gaps. When the window is installed the tape should ooz out a bit after a month or so.
It does not hurt to lightly snug all the screws around the frame of the window in the first 6mos or even longer. This will further squeeze the seal tape and insure that there is a good seal all the way around.

My feeling is that if the window is sealed completely that it will last for the life of the camper.
I am not talking about the clay type tape, only the Butyl tape.

My Bigfoot had 1 window leak right out of the factory... The window was in the rear of the camper right near the rounded corner. Instead of taking the camper back to the dealer I did the repair myself. After I removed the window and residual tape I put the outer frame of the window back in place.. It did not sit flat near the rounded corner. The gap was sufficient that there was no way a single layer of Butyl tape was going to seal it. It took 2 layers of tape around that area to completely seal.

What I have found, looking at other folks windows that are similar is if the butyl tape that is exposed (oozing) has cracks in it the window is leaking or will become prone to leaking.

Jim

WoodGlue wrote:
Yes, there is a gasket seal (butyl)

Here is a video on how to do it:

How To Reseal - Reset A RV Window

Common problem.

WoodGlue

Nice educatioal vid however two things did occur that might sound like nitpicking.
1. The butyl tape seam was placed at the rear of the window, I know the butyl will or should squish together, However personally I would place the butt seam at the bottom center with a slight overlap.
2. The use of silicone to caulk around the window. Silicone at best, IMO, is a temrorary bandage.
Otherwise a very good clip.

there is a thin open cell foam gasket that disintegrates over time .
re-caulking will help . but removing the window and replacing the foam gasket with
'tape' caulk and re-caulking the exterior is a "better" fix .

I just got finished removing and re installing the last of 6 windows in my lance , was just going to recaulk at first but I`m glad I pulled them all out . Seemed to not be that much butel tape at all sealing them at all . It wasent that bad about an hour a window , one at a time . A benefit to the lack of weather this winter here in CA

But I'm wondering why they have to be removed to do it?

Ralph