Restoring 1965 Skyline Layton

Hi there future trailer restorer! That's a sweet little rig! I restored a travel trailer that is a little bigger, a Starcraft. You can check out my efforts in the Cowboy/Hilton thread im my signature line, below.

Your building schedule sounds like a lot of work and I think you have a few things to ponder.
First, I think you'll find that aluminum box channel in the dimensions needed to replicate the frame, as it is, will be more than 10+ times the cost of wood. Steel will not be as much but there is little reason to use either as you won't need to replace entire walls or other. Also, the wood frame is adequate if all is sealed and maintained. The reason you see rotten framing is because the trailer has developed leaks and that has spread to the extent you see. What remains has lasted 48 years and, if replaced, will last just as long. We have better sealing methods, now, that will provide for that.

A solar panel, or solar panels covering the entire roof, will not provide enough power to run an AC or a water heater. TV, yes. Lights, yes. Water pumps, fans, and charging devices, yes. The AC and water heater draw too much power to make solar feasible for that use.

Here is a downloadable Calculator to estimate power use and how much battery and solar are necessary.

If you replace the fiberglass batt insulation with either sprayed foam or extruded foam board, your heating and cooling needs will be drastically reduced.

I would plan to replace the wiring and think of how and where you want to use the electrical system. Today, we rely on more powered devices for comfort and trying to do such with a 1965 system won't work.

Polyethylene tanks are available for water and waste. That would be my choice.

The best thing you can do from the start is to draw plans and think of how you will implement them in a time-line. It can save a lot of effort when you build and mean not tearing out your new work because you forgot something precedes what you've done.

The cap on the water tank is probably rusted onto the fill neck. You can try some judicious heat to free it. Spraying the thread area with penetrant may prove useful, too.

Your Layton is certainly a worthy candidate for a project like this. The smaller single axle trailers are growing in demand. Good luck with the restoration and don't be afraid to ask questions. There is a lot of experience and wisdom on the Forum.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your project. I like to see older RV's maintained and restored.
Have you checked Tin Can Tourists? It's a site for Vintage RV's.
Please, keep us updated on your progress.

Westend and Gbopp, Thanks so much for the Hello and information.
For nearly 4 years I Volunteered for the Forest Service surviving on a daily stipend but with housing and such included. I fell in love with the outdoors while wondering throughout the Southern High Desert and North Eastern mountains including Alaska. I've been cooped up for several years care giving for my father and truly believe it was fate that I was all but given this trailer. I feel almost compelled to do a bang up job on it.
I was considering using the Aluminum over wood for the weight difference. Also, I had planned on taking my time over the next cpl of months piddling with the restoration.
I am surprised the lack of available power from solar panels today.I am hoping to be able to make 2-3 day trips to the beach and mountains. I wont need a ac unit but I am curious to know how folks go about showering. As a trail ranger I use to go out into the back country with a 5 gal solar bag and tube. I would hang it up and allow the sun to heat the water. Same ol same today?

Ive removed the door and started on the inside by removing some of the items that needed to be cleaned. The picture below is the worse of the trailer. The rest isnt so bad.

The solar shower is still a winner, IMO. You could also use the "load" terminals off a solar charge controller (mine is 15 amps) and heat water in the daylight hours using a 12v element in the trailer's water heater. That should be able to get 6 gals. of water up close to shower temp. Most folks just fire up the water heater with propane.

I did a little investigating on using aluminum tube for framing. It might be something I'd like to use in the future. A 21' stick of 6063 rectangular 1" x 1 1/2" costs me $46 and weighs a bit over 13 lbs. Out of that stick, I could make three studs ( $15.30 - 4.6 lbs). A 2" x 2" nominal SPF board costs around $1 and weighs about 5 lbs. I couldn't justify the weight savings or durability for the price difference. Not only that but a different fastening schedule would have to be used.

LaytonLad, welcome to the forum.

Check out http://repairingyesterdaystrailers.yuku.com/directory#.UlM_db7n_IV


As far as showers go, I would consider putting a LP "Tee" in the propane line (after the regulator) to hook up a quick disconnect so that you can use a Camp Chef outside water heater. Then all you need an outside hose bib tap off of your pump. Then you just take a shower tent with you. If you make sure that your frame of your trailer is strong enough, you can add some water capacity. You won't want to use an old fresh water tank.
I'm looking forward to your restoration.

Thanks for the ideas and links. They really do help.

Please feel free to add any pointers. Its greatly appreciated.

So heres my plan of attack. As you can see from the picture below I have abit of work to do. There are several areas that will require the entire floor to be replaced. The frame needs some work as well. The left side of the frame isnt so bad. The is some here and there but 90% of the frame is in good shape. The right side will require a complete redo. I am thinking that I will need to remove one part of the trailers frame at a time. Then rebuild one at a time. I should say that I would build the frame on a table, place it off to the side then do the next. I would just do the pieces that is needed if the entire frame didnt require a redo. Once I have all the sides completed I can redo the floor and then rebuild the frame.

I just acquired a 1965 18' HolmesCraft. It is roughly in the same shape as yours. I am starting a restoration but unfortunately I have to do it outside, so I don't have the ability to remove the skin. I am working my way around the inside replacing studs, etc. You learn a lot about these old trailers.

On to the water tank. You might as well scrap it. In those year of trailers they were pressure systems where you pumped up the tank with air via a foot pump or the like. There was a connection on the water cap outside along with a pressure gauge. My parents had a Mallard about the same vintage and that is how it worked. Hot water heaters were pretty much non existent. If you go on ebay you can get parts to put in a tank with a water pump and fill connection for a pretty reasonable price. I am going with a 16 gal tank since there is no shower, hot water and it has a Porta Potti.

The waste tank is another issue. It probably didn't have one. These are expensive and hard to fit into one of these trailer's frames. Back in those days they either let it run on the ground or into a jug and dumped it onto the ground. The tank issue will probably be the most challenging. The rest is patience, time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$.

Good luck.

FWIW, I chose to keep my pressure tank and compressor pump. Reasons: 1)Pump doesn't run on demand (less noise) 2) If compressor pump fails, I can hook up a plug-in auxiliary and still have water 3) If plug in auxiliary fails, I can pull into a service station with air available and pressurize from the fill cap 4) It is all working so cost me nothing to replace it.
Since those initial decisions, I've found a couple of other benefits: Easier to winterize (no bypass to mess with, no special hose for antifreeze, has blow-out air built in). Easier to hook up to city water (no valves or extra port to maintain, just hook up with hose and turn on).

I definitely agree with you, they were simpler systems. If they had the anti rust technology then, they might still be around. My tank was long gone so I went to the pump systems, keeping in mind I will probably sell the trailer.

Wonder if somehow putting in an anode from a hot water heater would help the interior of the tank from further rusting. Just a thought.

Love to see these restos!