Road Armor vs CRE3000
I am planning a 5K+ mile trip this summer and want to update the suspension on my Travel Trailer (see signature). The two systems that I am considering are the CRE300 and the Road Armor - along with ...
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Not sure what size your camper is, but these pics are from a camper I restored last year. This camper is set up on tandem 3,500# axles. This 2004 camper has a 5,500# GTVWR. The wheel-to-wheel spacing is less than the standard 33" spacing; this one is at 32" nominal.
The camper originally had underslung axles making it a low rider. I gained more ride height and fender well clearance by doing an over/under axle tube conversion (AKA axle flip). It also allowed me to use the Road Armor.
Here is the camper as I acquired it. It had mega water damage, but the inside was in good shape, not abused, and was a perfect candidate for restoration. You can see how low riding this camper was and the fender well clearance.
Here is the upgraded Road Armor on it after the axle flip. This was not enough ground clearance for the Road Armor with the drop axle before the axle flipped. If the axles were not drop axles (straight axles), then it could have worked.
The Road Armor worked out well on that setup, I just had to deal with the ground clearance on the drop axle setup.
I have a Keystone 5th wheel in the shop now doing a brake job; it is a 10,000# GVWR camper with 4,400# tandem axles. It has had the Road Armor since new; the camper has been used for 3 years, and the rubber and equalizer parts have held up well so far.
I hope this helps,
John
PS, in case you have never seen a drop axle, see here. This pic is during the over/under conversion. The axle spindle is upside down in this pic. while adding the extra axle seat on top of the axle tube.
The old axles as they came out of the camper
You can see here the axle tube is lower than the axle spindle and wheel center, lowering the camper. Look behind the large C clamp press, taking the rusted pins out. The spring pack is on the bottom of the axle tube.
The camper originally had underslung axles making it a low rider. I gained more ride height and fender well clearance by doing an over/under axle tube conversion (AKA axle flip). It also allowed me to use the Road Armor.
Here is the camper as I acquired it. It had mega water damage, but the inside was in good shape, not abused, and was a perfect candidate for restoration. You can see how low riding this camper was and the fender well clearance.
Here is the upgraded Road Armor on it after the axle flip. This was not enough ground clearance for the Road Armor with the drop axle before the axle flipped. If the axles were not drop axles (straight axles), then it could have worked.
The Road Armor worked out well on that setup, I just had to deal with the ground clearance on the drop axle setup.
I have a Keystone 5th wheel in the shop now doing a brake job; it is a 10,000# GVWR camper with 4,400# tandem axles. It has had the Road Armor since new; the camper has been used for 3 years, and the rubber and equalizer parts have held up well so far.
I hope this helps,
John
PS, in case you have never seen a drop axle, see here. This pic is during the over/under conversion. The axle spindle is upside down in this pic. while adding the extra axle seat on top of the axle tube.
The old axles as they came out of the camper
You can see here the axle tube is lower than the axle spindle and wheel center, lowering the camper. Look behind the large C clamp press, taking the rusted pins out. The spring pack is on the bottom of the axle tube.
