Safety Tow Chain Question

I don't have a link (no pun intended), but you can buy links for repairing chain which consist of a split,sprung open link which will allow you to attach xtra chain to an existing safety chain, and after you attach it all together you simply hammer the sprung open add on link closed. This method is as strong as the original one piece chain. I use links like this to repair broken tow chain, and they never break. Available at your local hardware or tractor supply.

Proudcanuck wrote:
I have a related-ish question.
I just upgraded my TV from 1996 4Runner to a 2013 F-150. The links where the safety chains connect to on the TV are a few inches ahead of where the pin holds the hitch into the receiver (on the 4Runner they were right next to the pin holes). As such, my chains are both about 4" too short. I'd prefer not to replace them off the trailer as I suspect they're welded on...
What if I ge ta 12-18" length of similar gauge chain and thread it through the two holes (and around the top of the receiver) where the chains normally clip, then clip the chains off the trailer to this length of chain?
I have a WD hitch and use a locking pin etc on the hitch so chances of actually needing this, like most, are slim but don't want to do it totally wrong. On the first trip out weith the new truck the safety chains were wrapped around the A frame, so this would be better than that! I don't want to make this an expensive job where I gotta haul the trailer to RV shop etc. for replacements so trying to keep it easy and simple....

:E :E :S

Egad s! Never, EVER tow on public roads without the chains connected, period.

Quite a few years ago, Near Pittsburgh PA an ENTIRE FAMILY (kids included) were KILLED by a 3K lb chipper which broke away from the truck towing it. Crossed the highway and smashed into the van HEAD ON! The chipper was IMPROPERLY HITCHED.

The chains are to serve the purpose of KEEPING your trailer tied to your tow vehicle in case of failure of hitch, ball and or coupler until you can make a safe stop.

The chains ARE required to be properly connected and that is a fact.

On to your question, yes, it is possible to "extend" the length of the chains. No welding needed, simply buy a chain repair link and new chain properly sized to your existing chain.

Chain repair links look like the following link..
CHAIN REPAIR LINK

I argue that the shank is too long not the chains are to short.

I have a related-ish question.
I just upgraded my TV from 1996 4Runner to a 2013 F-150. The links where the safety chains connect to on the TV are a few inches ahead of where the pin holds the hitch into the receiver (on the 4Runner they were right next to the pin holes). As such, my chains are both about 4" too short. I'd prefer not to replace them off the trailer as I suspect they're welded on...
What if I ge ta 12-18" length of similar gauge chain and thread it through the two holes (and around the top of the receiver) where the chains normally clip, then clip the chains off the trailer to this length of chain?
I have a WD hitch and use a locking pin etc on the hitch so chances of actually needing this, like most, are slim but don't want to do it totally wrong. On the first trip out weith the new truck the safety chains were wrapped around the A frame, so this would be better than that! I don't want to make this an expensive job where I gotta haul the trailer to RV shop etc. for replacements so trying to keep it easy and simple....

Lynnmor wrote:

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
The idea of the chains forming a cradle, for the most part, is nonsense. Connect the chains leaving enough slack for turns and then uncouple the ball and let the tongue down and you will see that the coupler will hit the ground as the trailer moves forward. The lower the connection point is, the more likely that cradle effect won't happen. The real reason for crossing chains is so they don't pull tight when turning.

What will happen after the bottom of the tongue hits the pavement with the truck still attached with the safety chains?The crossed chains will lift the tongue. If they're not crossed the tongue will still be on the pavement pulled by the chains, or, in the worst case, the coupler will imbed in the roadway, flipping the trailer. The crossed chains also tend to keep the trailer tongue pulled towards the truck's attachment point, should one chain break, not pulling from just one side.
The fact that they are crossed has no bearing on the slack in the chains when turning. That is defined by the length of the chains.

Just what are you trying to say? Tongues may hit the pavement regardless how they are attached. Crossing the chains does indeed prevent them from drawing tight in turns. Yes, I cross the chains, but I don't much believe in the idea that somehow the crossed chains will keep the tongue off the road in most cases. If the trailer has the most braking power, the chains will be pulled tight. If the tow vehicle is stopping faster than the trailer, the coupler will probably go under the tow vehicle as far as the chains allow.

I've been present in a couple of mishaps where the trailer coupler detaches from the towing vehicle's ball. When the coupler detaches and the truck is maintaining speed, the trailer loses speed and the tongue starts to drop. As the crossed safety chains tighten they hold the tongue off the road surface. If the chains aren't crossed, they tighten and pull the tongue forward but not necessarily up off the pavement. In one instance of the latter case, one safety chain broke and the remaining chain pulled the tongue of the trailer radically to the side. Thankfully, it was toward the shoulder because the remaining chain snapped and the trailer continued for some distance until stopped by a roadside sign.

Hey, if you don't want to cross your chains, hook 'em up any way you want.

We have a communucations problem. I said that I CROSS my chains. I doubt that anyone will bring an uncoupled truck and trailer to a stop without using the truck brakes.

We do. I understood that you cross your chains. You believe it's "nonsense" in that it serves no purpose other than to somehow afford more length to the chains. My opinion is the opposite, I think it affords to keep the tongue off the road in the first moments of separation and that a crossed chain attachment actually shortens the length in turning compared to parallel hookup. We can disagree on this and there's "no foul".

Of course, you would instinctively apply the brakes in an emergency situation to lower your speed and bring everything to a stop. There are physics at work in the instance before that happens.

My chains broke off my tongue during a tight turn in a gas station last week. I'd been adjusting the length with heavy link extensions recommended by 2 RV dealers near my home. I must have had the chains a tad short although my turn was very tight (the ProPride hitch allows for right turns). It wasn't the extension links that broke! It was the weld right at the tongue. I've checked with large RV dealers in Bismarck and Billings on this trip to Yellowstone. Both said not to worry because they've never seen safety chains successfully work with a loaded trailer that disconnects. They stated they are a "feel good" law/requirement. I do have my chains back attached but I was surprised at the experience and the comments from the dealers.

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
The idea of the chains forming a cradle, for the most part, is nonsense. Connect the chains leaving enough slack for turns and then uncouple the ball and let the tongue down and you will see that the coupler will hit the ground as the trailer moves forward. The lower the connection point is, the more likely that cradle effect won't happen. The real reason for crossing chains is so they don't pull tight when turning.

What will happen after the bottom of the tongue hits the pavement with the truck still attached with the safety chains?The crossed chains will lift the tongue. If they're not crossed the tongue will still be on the pavement pulled by the chains, or, in the worst case, the coupler will imbed in the roadway, flipping the trailer. The crossed chains also tend to keep the trailer tongue pulled towards the truck's attachment point, should one chain break, not pulling from just one side.
The fact that they are crossed has no bearing on the slack in the chains when turning. That is defined by the length of the chains.

Just what are you trying to say? Tongues may hit the pavement regardless how they are attached. Crossing the chains does indeed prevent them from drawing tight in turns. Yes, I cross the chains, but I don't much believe in the idea that somehow the crossed chains will keep the tongue off the road in most cases. If the trailer has the most braking power, the chains will be pulled tight. If the tow vehicle is stopping faster than the trailer, the coupler will probably go under the tow vehicle as far as the chains allow.

I've been present in a couple of mishaps where the trailer coupler detaches from the towing vehicle's ball. When the coupler detaches and the truck is maintaining speed, the trailer loses speed and the tongue starts to drop. As the crossed safety chains tighten they hold the tongue off the road surface. If the chains aren't crossed, they tighten and pull the tongue forward but not necessarily up off the pavement. In one instance of the latter case, one safety chain broke and the remaining chain pulled the tongue of the trailer radically to the side. Thankfully, it was toward the shoulder because the remaining chain snapped and the trailer continued for some distance until stopped by a roadside sign.

Hey, if you don't want to cross your chains, hook 'em up any way you want.

We have a communucations problem. I said that I CROSS my chains. I doubt that anyone will bring an uncoupled truck and trailer to a stop without using the truck brakes.

tcgg wrote:
When connecting the safety tow chain to the TV I can easily connect/hook one side but have to turn TV to bring it closer to connect/hook the other side. The safety chain is about 3 links to short to easily connect both.

If I was to cut a link out,,, are those connecting links that screw together safe to use? If so, what strength of this type coupling link is needed?

I have a 24 foot Jayco TT.

Thanks in advance.

Is this a new TT? and did it come that way? Seems odd that one chain is shorter than another. Yes, you can extend/adjust the length of the chains using the screw links, and yes they are not quite as strong as solid chain. I think somewhere in Connecticut motor vehicle laws/regulations it says something about only using solid chain, but I am not sure - I might just be confusing "recommendations" about towing setups.

Best thing to do is to replace your safety chains with the correct length(s) of solid chain without using the screw links. That way you don't have to worry about it. If your local hardware store can't help you, I would think any trailer store/dealer would easily be able to help.

Lynnmor wrote:

westend wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
The idea of the chains forming a cradle, for the most part, is nonsense. Connect the chains leaving enough slack for turns and then uncouple the ball and let the tongue down and you will see that the coupler will hit the ground as the trailer moves forward. The lower the connection point is, the more likely that cradle effect won't happen. The real reason for crossing chains is so they don't pull tight when turning.

What will happen after the bottom of the tongue hits the pavement with the truck still attached with the safety chains?The crossed chains will lift the tongue. If they're not crossed the tongue will still be on the pavement pulled by the chains, or, in the worst case, the coupler will imbed in the roadway, flipping the trailer. The crossed chains also tend to keep the trailer tongue pulled towards the truck's attachment point, should one chain break, not pulling from just one side.
The fact that they are crossed has no bearing on the slack in the chains when turning. That is defined by the length of the chains.

Just what are you trying to say? Tongues may hit the pavement regardless how they are attached. Crossing the chains does indeed prevent them from drawing tight in turns. Yes, I cross the chains, but I don't much believe in the idea that somehow the crossed chains will keep the tongue off the road in most cases. If the trailer has the most braking power, the chains will be pulled tight. If the tow vehicle is stopping faster than the trailer, the coupler will probably go under the tow vehicle as far as the chains allow.

I've been present in a couple of mishaps where the trailer coupler detaches from the towing vehicle's ball. When the coupler detaches and the truck is maintaining speed, the trailer loses speed and the tongue starts to drop. As the crossed safety chains tighten they hold the tongue off the road surface. If the chains aren't crossed, they tighten and pull the tongue forward but not necessarily up off the pavement. In one instance of the latter case, one safety chain broke and the remaining chain pulled the tongue of the trailer radically to the side. Thankfully, it was toward the shoulder because the remaining chain snapped and the trailer continued for some distance until stopped by a roadside sign.

Hey, if you don't want to cross your chains, hook 'em up any way you want.