Seeking advice on dry weight / towing capacity

Look into a hard-sided popup like Trailmanor

If you just want to get into this for a couple years before upgrading, it might be worth looking at used pop-ups or A-liners, as suggested. I saw a 4 year old A-liner on Craigslist the other day for around 5 grand.
To find out how trailers keep their value, just look around on the net for both new and used prices on the same camper.
In your case, the fiberglass eggs are probably the best value, but can be pricey.

Are there any brands/models that hold their value over others?

In your weight range, Casita.

Ohhh. :( Good to know, thank you! I was under the impression they held their value pretty well - but again, I'm new to this, which is why I need help!

I'm now looking at R-Pods... which from what I can tell, we could safely tow (the models I like are about 2600-2700 lbs.; but I now know that dry weight isn't the only factor!). That would be great for us, for a few years at least... would that be an unwise investment? Are there any brands/models that hold their value over others?

magster33 wrote:
The plan for now is to get something small (and safe); won't be even close to our dream trailer, but for now it will do. Then when we're able to get a better truck, we can hopefully trade in the trailer and upgrade at that point!

Just keep in mind that recreational vehicles depreciate like a rock so if you buy now then change to something else a couple years down the road you'll lose your shirt - literally! :E

Thanks again! I'm so happy I found these forums - I will be following all of your advice! To answer some of your questions:

The 4-Runner currently does not have a tow package / hitch - so of course we'll have to get the necessary modifications done.

Yes, we would absolutely love to upgrade to a better towing vehicle - it's just that, it would have to be that, OR the trailer, unfortunately. The plan for now is to get something small (and safe); won't be even close to our dream trailer, but for now it will do. Then when we're able to get a better truck, we can hopefully trade in the trailer and upgrade at that point!

Forget dry weight. Keep the trailer GVWR within the tow rating for best results.

Remember opinions and estimates are just that. But it is your money on the line.

Vehicle cargo and towing numbers are real numbers, scales readings are real numbers.

Load up everything you are going to put in your tow vehicle when you go camping; people, dogs, toys, camp gear, tools; the stuff that is not going into the trailer.

Weight your loaded vehicle. Now you know how much weight you have left for the tongue weight.

Good luck

To the OP ...

If you want a trailer with a toilet but can forego the shower there are a select few models of A-frame hardside trailers that offer just this, along with a DSI fridge with a freezer, UVW ~ 2700 lbs and a much lower profile than a full height travel trailer so much less strain on the TV from wind resistance, much better fuel mileage. One such example would be the popular Rockwood A213HW ... simple to set up, simple to tow. 2018 models have a front dormer for increased headroom, 2017 and earlier versions don't have the dormer and are even simpler to set up. I've even been considering one for us, maybe next year. :)

Lots of great advice so far.
While frontal area is a concern, there are options. The classic high low trailers where the top collapses down to half height is one. My daughter had a pop up with a shower setup.
I’m towing with a similar vehicle as you. It pulls it but I’ve learned to be very happy maintaining 65mph on a 70mph interstate. Unlike Sammy Hagar, I CAN drive 55 (& be happy) when towing my camper.
It’s frontal area is about 15% more than Ford recommends.