Should I Fix This - Frame Cross Member

If it is not broken, don't fix it, was what I was told many many years ago. If it is bent but not broken, it may have come from the factory or happens sometime back.

If the paint is not scrapped or there are no gouge mark to indicate a blow from some sort of road hazards and it has had no apparent ill effect on the trailer you can decide accordingly.

I second the above statement. If you are not having any ill; effects "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Hard to tell from the picture, but it almost looks like it was made that way. The bend looks too uniform to have happened from catching on something.

You can probably correct it, somewhat, without welding but not successfully for a long term solution. If it was mine, I'd clamp a piece of substantial angle iron on it and see if it can be drawn straighter. After capturing the most deflection possible, I'd tack the angle iron onto the frame piece.

BTW, after your're done with the frame, I'd suggest to clamp those battery wires up to the frame.

2DHoop - I have an AF and my frame looks exactly like yours at the front where you have the red arrow. Further, I have the same zip ties holding the wires and propane hose to solid pipe connection. Word of caution, Northwood wound the flexible propane connection to fixed connection to tight with an "open C clamp" which ended up breaking that connection. I backed off the tension on the C clamp (2 bolts) and put a small section of rubber between it and the fixed pipe to stop any rubbing. This allows a bit of movement as the trailer flexes while going down the road.
Hope you are enjoying the trailer!!

westend wrote:
You can probably correct it, somewhat, without welding but not successfully for a long term solution. If it was mine, I'd clamp a piece of substantial angle iron on it and see if it can be drawn straighter. After capturing the most deflection possible, I'd tack the angle iron onto the frame piece.

BTW, after your're done with the frame, I'd suggest to clamp those battery wires up to the frame.

Copy that about the securing the cables...that's why I originally got under there and started to have a look-see. Twenty years ago I would have already had the whole under side washed and waxed, but now days I have to pick my battles.

2013 Arctic Fox 25P

I've got one cross member that had an "ouch" also. 2X4 and a Hammer solved the lip that was bent down on mine. I think NW pulls them around with fork lift and a hay hook when making them. ;)

If it were me...I would take a pic and separate e-mails to NW and two dealers. So you get 3 opinions, all supposedly "expert". Has to be better pic though. You need to be able to see in the pic you send, if cross member is just bent a little and/or if weld is not longer intact.

NW has been very good to me in sending odds and ends parts to me, even though TT is not under warranty. Dave Mann is the contact person at NW I believe.

We've got 25W

Some of the welding done by the frame manufacturer (no names mentioned) is poorly done and even incomplete in some cases.

Having had a serious frame problem on a previous TT that was found the day after we owned it, I would recommend taking it to a reputable frame and axle shop that has experience with TTs. The one we used is a gov't certified inspection facility and they did a very detailed inspection and found a number of things wrong, including bad factory welding. They will be able to recommend any repairs if needed or if it can be leave it alone.

The points where an A-frame connects to the main frame (I-beams) is a high stress area. The frame on our TT which has 2 x 4400 lb axles, doesn't have any tubing between the A-frame members. But your frame must have a bottom mount coupler and I don't know if the A-frame connections are done differently. The cross-piece with the crack at the end looks to be the front of the floor of the TT. It may provide mostly floor support but then it might also be a very important structural connection point too. Considering the potential worst case scenario, I'd get a professional to look at it.

Dr. Blake wrote:
2DHoop - I have an AF and my frame looks exactly like yours at the front where you have the red arrow. Further, I have the same zip ties holding the wires and propane hose to solid pipe connection. Word of caution, Northwood wound the flexible propane connection to fixed connection to tight with an "open C clamp" which ended up breaking that connection. I backed off the tension on the C clamp (2 bolts) and put a small section of rubber between it and the fixed pipe to stop any rubbing. This allows a bit of movement as the trailer flexes while going down the road.
Hope you are enjoying the trailer!!

Thanks for the confirmation, Dr. Blake. This whole mini project started at the battery's connections and in an effort to educate myself about how the system is setup/wired.

Seeing that someone doesn't know how to crimp connections very well, nor prevent corrosion, I proceeded to solder new ring connectors to the parallel jumpers and primary connections.

As I followed the trail to the underside, I noticed a bunch of other "no-goes" as you have pointed out as well.

Also, there are two #8 wires (black and red) that were bundled up but not connected to anything. I don't really want to take off the 12"X12" "hatch" to see where they terminate above the under belly covering so I just rolled them up out of the way for now.

Is there any way to reroute those cables thru existing holes in the frame? They are certainly in harms way. At least some metal conduit otherwise.