shurflo water pump upgrade?

Many choices of which way to go.

I elected to keep using the cheaper Surflo pump... and the tank.

It is really nice to have about 1/2 gallon of water come out with no pump running. It does quiet the pump a bit but barely.

Adding air to the hot water tank does not hold a reserve of water pressure like the bladder in the Expansion tank.

If one does not mind the pump coming on with every turn on of water/flushing the toilet then just keep a cheap pump.... or up grade to the different more expensive ones.

Jim

aaronmt wrote:
Went ahead and ordered the 4008 shurflow.Bigfoot do you have a picture of the expansion tank install by chance?We essentially have the same camper I believe.

I do not have any pictures. I know Reddog1 does. I will check with him and see.

It was not a difficult job. I installed it under the rear dinette seat, right next to the Water heater.

It does not take up very much room. It is 10x8" I installed mine on it's side.

There are several documented Expansion Tank installs...

Here's one that uses the same tank I installed.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f65/expansion-tank-mod-with-pictures-13310.html

Another, not much detail:

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25718216/srt/pa/pging/1/page/2.cfm

Jim

Higher flow can only make for pump surges when you open your faucet for low.
Higher pressure might show some weak points, but I don't think 5 psi difference will do much.
Having older RVs with solid plumbing - I was connecting them to 150 psi city pressure for testing. They all hold, although the new generation snap-on plumbing makes me concern.
I think if you really want to upgrade - go for variable speed pump.
Costly, but you will love it on long run.

So, since we're on the topic of water pumps, what damage can be caused by upgrading to the next level of Shurflo pump, a little more pressure and flow rate. I was looking for a backup and was thinking this might be a nice upgrade..

I understand that a major pressure increase could cause pressure leaks in connections, but just wonder how much could you increase BEFORE that would happen..

Case in point, next level... and indicates no need for the Expansion Tank. not sure how/why..

Shurflo 4048153E75 Electric Water Pump

Product description
Automatic demand design eliminates the need for an accumulator tank or complicated electronics. Built eco-friendly for efficient power use and reduction of hazardous waste. Built-in automatic thermal overload protection. Runs dry without damage. Built-in check valve prevents backflow. Dry primes to 6 vertical feet. Easily replaces Shurflo Smart Sensor pumps. 12-volt, 10 amps max.

https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-4048153E75-Electric-Water-Pump/dp/B007RYMT7O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543425819&sr=8-5&keywords=shurflo+water+pump

Expansion tanks is 1 more item you don't have space for in TC.
You can get similar effect by restoring air bubble in your water heater.
Close the water pressure and open safety valve to gargle some water.
You might have to do it every few days as air will deplete with water flow, but cheap enough and safety valves should be exercised anyway.

Went ahead and ordered the 4008 shurflow.Bigfoot do you have a picture of the expansion tank install by chance?We essentially have the same camper I believe.

If you need to replace the pump go with the cheaper pump that does not recirculate and add an Accumulator/Expansion Tank... You will really enjoy having about 1/2 gallon of water running without the pump running.... Several of us have done this.



https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Gallon-Expansion-Pressure-Tank/1038591

aaronmt wrote:
...and id like to get a bit quieter...

Not a direct answer, but relating to water pump noise... One of the smartest things I did to my camper was add a pressure tank (Amazon link). What happens now is the pump runs to pressurize the system, and then shuts off. If I need a just a bit of water the tank feeds the system rather than having the pump kick on. Especially nice since it seems the pump makes more noise when it is running slow than when it is at full demand.

Thanks,
-Eric

I've found a great deal of the noise on RV water pumps actually comes from the associated piping being poorly or not secured at all and vibrating against something. Unfortunately that can be in a pretty inaccessible spot. Before you scrap a pump that can be rebuilt cheaply, go on a noise hunt. I've found pool noodles or actual pipe insulation can be slid over piping and pushed along it into some pretty tight spots, stopping a lot of vibration and noise. Try that first! Otherwise you might replace a pump only to find you still have noise.

ScottG wrote:
Our new TT came with the Shureflow 4008. It's a nice pump woth good flow. Noise is not bad at all.
Seems like most of the time noise is more a factor of how the pump was installed.
Rubber mounting and using pipe insulation on any piping that makes contact with any other surface does a lot.

Yes - this is what I did in both our trailer and our B. I got the one in the trailer so quiet we can hardly hear it - which can be a problem if the o-ring in one of the low point drains goes bad and you don't know that all your water is being pumped out on the ground!