Slide blows fuze

In the breaker/fuse panel, there are two 30amp fuses, but apparently one is not being used. At least, when I removed it nothing stopped working. Initially I used the fuse in that spare position to replace the blown fuse. I have since invested in a bunch of fuses. Now let me see if I get this straight. The hot wire goes from the positive pole of the battery, thru the fuse in the panel and then directly to the slide motor. At that point two ground wires go from the motor and to the slide switch to make a contact with a ground point. All the rocker switch does is rocker between the ground point for extending and retracting the slide? That means that the hot wire going directly to the slide motor is grounding out somehow, blowing the fuse. Why it doesn't blow while stationary is kinda a mystery. But there are some really rough roads between Southern California and Southwest Washington. I had called the RV dealership and talked with their tech. It was a mystery to him also, but did mention something about a Nut Cover and a lock bolt that controls travel of the slide maybe being not correctly set allowing the motor to bind when retracting, causing an overload. Maybe, but I can't recreate the short when parked, even with multiple extractions and retractions. Sounds like I should check the wiring around the motor and see if anything could be grounding it on the hot side. If it was grounding on the ground side it should be running all the time, which would blow the fuse when at the end of travel and extend the slide mysteriously if on the extend ground side. I sure would like to see a schematic.

just pull the switch and check the condition of the connection involved.

I have seen slide fuses in the panel on a Surveyor. And it was a 40 amp.

Old-Biscut, Forrest River has the 30A fuse in the main fuse panel, not an isolated circuit direct to the battery which would be the correct way. This is one of the things that will be changing on our Surveyor.

Sounds to me like there is a loose connection or pinched wire shorting out when the trailer is shifting in transport. Start at the slide motor and trace the wires back as far as possible, then pull the switch panel off the wall that houses the slide switch and check for loose or bad connections there. I would also pull the front cover off of the main fuse panel and check all the visible connections. If none of this reveals any obvious issues then I would make the 100 mile journey.

Slide should be wired directly to battery with 30A fuse.

Not thru Fused Panel

Positive wire to slide is shorting out when rig is in motion....\ surprised it doesn't blow fuse when stationary---positive wire should still be making contact/shorting

If you can not ID slide positive wire at battery and follow if to switch then might be best to drag it that 100 miles for warranty work (which will take weeks/months and 'Gee it works fine").
Maybe you can contact RV MFG ----talk with service head guy and get Mobile RV Repairman authorization (you pay for 'service fee')
That way 'they' come to you and you get to watch/discuss problem

That makes sense. By the hot wire I suspect you mean the positive terminal of the battery (usually the red wire). There is like a 40 amp fuse between the battery and the other 12v circuits, right? The main 40 amp fuse does not blow, I suppose because the 30 amp one to the slide goes first. The breaker/fuse panel is beneath the refrig at the back door. What do you think the routing is for the wires to the bank of switches on the end of the upper cabinet across from the breaker/fuse panel? Thru the floor and up the outside wall to the upper cabinet or up pass the refrigerator and thru the roof to the upper cabinet with the switches? Seems that most all six of the wires going to the switches from the fuse panel should not have any splices in them and all of them would be hot. So this wire to the slide would have to be shorting out to a ground of some sort. Correct? The most likely area would be at the switches (no ground in the wood cabinet) or behind the fuse panel, OR a pinched wire someplace in between. Might be easier to tow it that 100 miles for waranty work.

The hot wire to the switch is grounding out to something between the fuse and the switch. Could be to loose at a connection, wire stripped to long, insulation worn off or pinched, ... something somewhere.