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Boband4's avatar
Boband4
Explorer
Mar 23, 2014

Slide Out Switch Replacement - SOLVED!

I have a 2005 Keystone Cougar with a slide. I am trying to replace the switch due to arcing/melting in the old switch. The old switch has 5 connections all in a single row. Wires coming out of the wall to the switch are 2 white (connected together) - they are the ground. 1 Black - it has 12V positive power. The remaining 2 are red and green. The new switch has 5 connections; however, they are in a double stack, 3 on one side, two on the other. The connector has a red, green, yellow, and 2 black wires. I have use a digital VOM to confirm which wire goes to which tab in the connector; but I can't seem to make the connections right to make the new switch work.

Has anyone else done this and already solved the color code breakdown so I can get the new switch wired in?

7 Replies

  • Great info and I'm glad you got it working.
    Now to file this away in my trailer folder for eventual use.

    Thanks,
    Scott
  • Good News. I emailed Lippert customer service (parts@lci1.com) on Sunday night, sending an explanation of what I was doing, asked for a color for color explanation on converting from the "old" single column design (2005 and older) to the "new" double column design (2006 and newer). Monday morning I received a diagram back with the color coding and the wiring labels. The conversion works out to be: Single Column (SC) Green is Motor CCW, White is Ground, Black is Power, White is Ground, and Red is Motor CW. The Double Column (DC) Black is Ground, Yellow is Motor CW, Green is Motor CCW, Black is Ground, and Red is Power. So...the conversion works out to be: SC Green to DC Green, SC White to DC Black, SC Black to DC Red, SC White to DC Black, and SC Red to DC Yellow. I made all of the connections temporarily, plugged in the switch, and it worked. Only problem was that when I pushed the switch to "In" the slide went out, and when I pushed the switch to "Out" the slide went in. I took the switch out of the mounting plate, turned the plate top to bottom and snapped the switch back in. All worked perfectly, and is now labeled correctly. I used durable butt splice connectors to make the final connections, mounted the switch in the wall and all is good. Thanks to all for following along and trying to help.
  • Boband4 wrote:
    Found that one too! I have sent the question off to Lippert's website; hopefully (never a good business plan!) they will send me back a color for color replacement list.

    Thanks for trying!


    Let us know what they say!
    I'm sure lots of us can use that in the future.

    Scott
  • Found that one too! I have sent the question off to Lippert's website; hopefully (never a good business plan!) they will send me back a color for color replacement list.

    Thanks for trying!
  • I see. I havent had any problem with mine but I hate the design. I would like to add relays at the motor some day.
    Does this: New switch dia. help?
  • That is what I did for a short term fix, I found the problem the day before a trip - glad I did the day before checks. Problem is that the "in line" switch I found was only rated at 20 amps, and the "burned up" one was rated at 40. As I was trolling around looking for the solution I found where someone posted that the internal arcing/melting was why they quit making the older style and beefed it up to the newer style. I would like to go with the higher rated switch; but the wiring is driving me nuts!
  • Sorry this isn't exactly what you asked for but you could get the correct switch here Old style switch
    Note that the bottom pic of the connector is wrong - it's the newer style.