slotted/drilled brake rotors

Slotted, drilled or a combination of both rotors work better because they provide an escape path for the gas build up and dust that occurs between the rotor face and the pad. This provides better contact between the two despite the decreased swept area. Most people will never be able to feel the difference but a well thought out combination of rotor and pad will decrease stopping distance and fade and extend life.

My last set of pads lasted 90,000 miles. My wife is Italian and she drives I 95 like , well, 95 means go 95. She runs up to exits in the left lane and then swerves over with full brakes.

Gdetrailer wrote:

Pad material is most likely where you are getting better stopping, not the rotors. In fact the slots or holes in the rotors will decrease slightly the amount of friction area contact.

Factory pad material is often not as good as some aftermarket pads..

You can often get three different hardness ratings on pads.. Most stores offer economy, standard and "premium" with ceramics typically being sold as premium..

Each type has pros and cons..

Could very well be. I do know that the SHO in 2010-2012 doesn't have the best brakes, prone to fade and while they stop in good time, they don't like back to back stops. With this new combination it stops more confidently. But it may very well do the same with OEM rotors and better pads. But I think that the more venting area of the new rotors keeps them from fading.

itguy08 wrote:
I'll add a data point from actual experience....

My car is a 2010 Taurus SHO, which did not leave the factory with the best brakes. They are adequate but not really cut out for sporting driving. (it was noted in all the reviews and something they corrected in 2012.)

At 78k when the fronts were pulsating for the second time rather than have them cut I decided it was time to replace them. I installed the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors and pads for a possible upgrade.

They went on fine. First I noticed that they were a little noisier on hard stops (to be expected with slotted rotors) but I also noticed that the car seems to stop better and with less fade when sporty driving in the mountains.

Can't say if it would have been better than new OEM brakes or not. Can't also say much about the longevity as I'm at 86k now. But I can say they give a bit better confidence in the car's ability to stop on a dime repeatedly.

The cost was not much more than 2 rotors and a good set of pads.

Pad material is most likely where you are getting better stopping, not the rotors. In fact the slots or holes in the rotors will decrease slightly the amount of friction area contact.

Factory pad material is often not as good as some aftermarket pads..

You can often get three different hardness ratings on pads.. Most stores offer economy, standard and "premium" with ceramics typically being sold as premium..

Each type has pros and cons..

I'll add a data point from actual experience....

My car is a 2010 Taurus SHO, which did not leave the factory with the best brakes. They are adequate but not really cut out for sporting driving. (it was noted in all the reviews and something they corrected in 2012.)

At 78k when the fronts were pulsating for the second time rather than have them cut I decided it was time to replace them. I installed the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors and pads for a possible upgrade.

They went on fine. First I noticed that they were a little noisier on hard stops (to be expected with slotted rotors) but I also noticed that the car seems to stop better and with less fade when sporty driving in the mountains.

Can't say if it would have been better than new OEM brakes or not. Can't also say much about the longevity as I'm at 86k now. But I can say they give a bit better confidence in the car's ability to stop on a dime repeatedly.

The cost was not much more than 2 rotors and a good set of pads.

Most important would be what they're made of. Some with premium quality cast iron will last a lot longer then '72 Chevy bumpers sent to China to return as brake rotator. If your brakes are getting too hot something is wrong with your rig or you are doing something wrong.

sign man wrote:

2oldman wrote:
You posted in TT so I guess you're aking about a trailer.

I wanted to know if having them on the tow vehicle would be necessary even tho the trailer already has brakes

Absolutely a waste of your money.

Your OEM type rotors are the best longer lasting and performing rotors..

If drilled and slotted rotors really are superior for normal on road driving/towing then the VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS would be putting them on FROM THE FACTORY.

Your trailer brakes ARE supposed to take care of the TRAILER load.

Your Tow vehicle brakes take care of the load of the vehicle.

BOTH brake systems should simply be kept MAINTAINED at all times.

If you feel the need for better brakes on the vehicle when towing you better take a good hard look at your TRAILER BRAKES.

RV manufacturers tend to skimp on the wiring, an upgrade of wire size does a world of good to make the trailer brakes perform better.

A PROPERLY SIZED TOW VEHICLE also makes a difference in your overall braking.. In other words, don't use a Prius to tow a 10,000 lb GVW trailer..

I have never had any situation that the tow vehicle brakes have felt like they were not strong enough while towing and they give me very long service life (average of 80,000 miles on front pads, 150,000 miles on front rotors and rear pads around 100,000 miles and rotors well above 180,000 miles).. But I am using a 3/4 ton truck to tow 7,000 - 10,000 lbs..

2oldman wrote:
You posted in TT so I guess you're aking about a trailer.

I wanted to know if having them on the tow vehicle would be necessary even tho the trailer already has brakes

This came up not too long ago and someone posted a link to a site about it. That site showed a number of pictures showing rotors cracking at the slots and holes.

You posted in TT so I guess you're aking about a trailer.