Just picked up our first TT. We will mostly be rving on sites that are level concrete pads that won't require much more that a 1" block on the side with 3 slides to help level it out. But lets say we find ourselves in a spot that is significantly lower on one side. How do you bring the trailer up if you have a series of 1 foot blocks, or plastic pads, without causing the top blocks to kick out as you try to climb up them. I have considered carrying 1 ft. sections of 1x8, 2x8 and if I needed more than a couple of inches grab a set of Anderson levelers for up to 4 inches.

I use wood blocks. Most are dimensionally 1 1/2". If I need to raise the side of the trailer 3" that would be a two block stack. I have some longer boards that make this relatively easy.

I use pieces of 2x10 with the ends cut at 45 degrees. My longest one is about 6 feet and keep it in the truck bed for other uses too. I also have some shorter pieces that can sit on top of the long section. Knocking the ends down to 45 degrees helps keep them from moving. If I'm on the long board and need just a little more I then add one short piece for one of the wheels.The more times you set up the more you will get a feel for what you need just by eyeballing the site.I sold the plastic blocks in a garage sale.

We have these leveling blocks. They interlock like legos. I have stacked them four high (uses 11 blocks for one wheel) and we have no problem driving up on them. It is a little more difficult to get them really high for two axle set ups because the wheels are close together but it can be done using more than one set. For two axles and two 'levels' you would need six blocks.

If you look closely you can see 2X6 blocks cut at 45 degrees and stacked as my levelling blocks. What you can't see is the 8" bolt with a point ground on the end. The blocks are drilled through an the bolt is hammered through the blocks and into the ground to keep the blocks from kicking out when i drive up them.

Thank you for the ideas....I have a good Idea on how I will start out.

So lets say you need to bring one side up 3-4 inches

RedRocket204
Explorer
Dec 24, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
... in my case my ramp was 54" long and 7.5" high at the high end. When my KZ Spree was backed up on to the ramp for maximum lift there was a mere 1/2" clearance between the top of the rear tire and the wheel well while there was in excess of 3" of clearance with the front tire ... clearly the rear tire and it's suspension components were supporting far more load than was the front tire which at this point was supporting very little.

~1" or lower does not equate to 3" - 7.5". I am talking about maybe 1" or less off-level to where adding another lego block can get the trailer off-level in the opposite direction. Again, if a 1" height difference on the same side between front and rear tire/axle is a problem for your trailer... your trailer is hazardous and shouldn't be on the road. You are easily putting more stress on your axles in regards to a height delta every time your TT travels down the road versus having one tire 1" higher on the same side while camping.

oh yeah, :R
SoundGuy
Explorer
Dec 24, 2015
RedRocket204 wrote:
There is suspension for a reason and I seriously doubt there would be enough measurable increase in force on either axle to make a difference... yes, that is an assumption but your assessment is also an assumption.

Sorry to disappoint but there's been no "assumption" on my part. ;) Back in 2010 a group of us on another forum investigated the vagaries involved in using a ramp to level the low side of a trailer ... in my case my ramp was 54" long and 7.5" high at the high end. When my KZ Spree was backed up on to the ramp for maximum lift there was a mere 1/2" clearance between the top of the rear tire and the wheel well while there was in excess of 3" of clearance with the front tire ... clearly the rear tire and it's suspension components were supporting far more load than was the front tire which at this point was supporting very little. Had the ramp slope been even greater the rear tire would have been forced right into the wheel well and the front tire would have elevated right off the ramp - why? ... because all the force was bearing down on the rear tire and it's related suspension components while there was zero force on the front tire. Clearly there's a mistaken impression that suspension equalizers are designed for the purpose of allowing considerably different force to consistently bear down on one tire (and it's suspension components) more than those of the adjacent tire ... in truth, it's purpose is to simply allow each tire to maintain contact with an uneven ground surface as the trailer traverses that surface. This is not rocket science but simply a matter of physics - if a total force of X normally supported by two tires (and their suspension components) is forced to be carried by just one tire then obviously that one tire (and it's suspension components) will be carrying twice the load. When leveling my own trailer side to side I simply prefer to avoid this situation whenever I can and would therefore not elevate just one tire in a set for the purpose of leveling the trailer. What you choose to do is obviously up to you but this is my choice which is far from being based on "assumption". :R
RCMAN46
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
ralph day wrote:

Just don't drive up on them using 2 feet (brake and gas pedals). On sand I locked the trailer brakes and just buldozed with the Anderson's for a foot or so.

Ralph

With my prodigy P3 buldozing is not a problem as it is easy to disable the trailer brakes so I can two foot gas and brake on the TV for controlled backing.
dodge_guy
Explorer II
Dec 23, 2015
RedRocket204 wrote:
SoundGuy wrote:
RedRocket204 wrote:
If you are a bit OCD about getting the TT completely level, I've noticed at times adding a block to a side that is ~ 1" lower can then make it higher than the other side, throwing off level again. I've found you can offset the slightly off level by only raising 1 of the 2 axles to get a completely side to side level trailer.

Which is why my Wood / Lynx system includes a non-Lynx base I can use on the high side for fine tuning side-to-side level. OCD? ... maybe, but if I can do it this easily, why not? As for elevating just one tire on the low side that's not something I would do as it places much more force on the elevated axle vs the non-elevated axle, same as using a ramp ... IMO a poor idea.

There is suspension for a reason and I seriously doubt there would be enough measurable increase in force on either axle to make a difference... yes, that is an assumption but your assessment is also an assumption. If the axles were that weak, I think there would be much bigger issues.

Yes. That is what the equalizer is for! It distributes the load evenly between axles. Now rubber torsion axles are different. But still a little bit will not hurt, even if your staying out for a week.
RedRocket204
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
RedRocket204 wrote:
If you are a bit OCD about getting the TT completely level, I've noticed at times adding a block to a side that is ~ 1" lower can then make it higher than the other side, throwing off level again. I've found you can offset the slightly off level by only raising 1 of the 2 axles to get a completely side to side level trailer.

Which is why my Wood / Lynx system includes a non-Lynx base I can use on the high side for fine tuning side-to-side level. OCD? ... maybe, but if I can do it this easily, why not? As for elevating just one tire on the low side that's not something I would do as it places much more force on the elevated axle vs the non-elevated axle, same as using a ramp ... IMO a poor idea.

There is suspension for a reason and I seriously doubt there would be enough measurable increase in force on either axle to make a difference... yes, that is an assumption but your assessment is also an assumption. If the axles were that weak, I think there would be much bigger issues.
ttarborists
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
The Andersen's also have a 3 year warranty and a 4.6 out of 5 satisfaction rating out of hundreds of responders. They are so easy to use that if mine broke I would definitely get them again.
ralph_day
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
I have used Anderson levelers and wood. Anderson's all the way! Even for just a little more height on one side they're great. For more height than they can give I have 2x10's for them to sit on. Fast and easy to use and pack away.

Just don't drive up on them using 2 feet (brake and gas pedals). On sand I locked the trailer brakes and just buldozed with the Anderson's for a foot or so. Whoops. Not sure what they'd be like on a really heavy rig. Mine's only 2600pounds empty.

Ralph
hohenwald48
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
The Andersons do get scuffed from stones but so what. I've been using them for over a year now and haven't experienced any cracking, chipping or breakage. I did have a problem with them sliding once on wet grass.

Who knows why there are negative comments on Amazon about them. I think you could look for gold on Amazon and someone would give it a negative review. I sometimes think folks post comments/reviews on Amazon just to get published and get a little attention. I've never talked with anyone who has had them break or crack.

I have seen lot's of broken Lynx levelers in CG dumpsters.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
RedRocket204 wrote:
If you are a bit OCD about getting the TT completely level, I've noticed at times adding a block to a side that is ~ 1" lower can then make it higher than the other side, throwing off level again. I've found you can offset the slightly off level by only raising 1 of the 2 axles to get a completely side to side level trailer.

Which is why my Wood / Lynx system includes a non-Lynx base I can use on the high side for fine tuning side-to-side level. OCD? ... maybe, but if I can do it this easily, why not? As for elevating just one tire on the low side that's not something I would do as it places much more force on the elevated axle vs the non-elevated axle, same as using a ramp ... IMO a poor idea.
myredracer
Explorer II
Dec 23, 2015
We use the yellow plastic "lego blocks" from CW like in the 1st photo (not ours). Have 3 packs of them. They are lightweight and take up little space in a pass-through compartment. They are an inch thick and you just stack them up as needed. For tandem axles you just stretch out the buildup. Sometimes I've been 1/2 way between another layer and have simply placed an extra layer under one wheel only.

The only thing I don't like about the plastic blocks is that they can get damaged on sharp rocks on a site. Have had to toss maybe 3 of them in over 4 years so not a big deal.

The lego blocks also are useful for other things too like under jacks, leveling a picnic table or BBQ and even making up a step at the bottom of your entry stairs if on a really sloping site.

Personally, having to use bulky cumbersome chunks of wood and store them somewhere would bother me. Another option is Anderson levelers as in the 2nd photo but they're awfully expensive for what they are plus are also susceptible to damage from sharp stones.