solar panel install

Renogy

I think you should spend the extra money and get the better panels with a MPPT Controller (I would also change the controller to a 40 amp.) Don't go direct from the panel to the fridge without going thru the charge controller

Interesting thoughts. I wouldn't think it would make a difference to whether or not it was connected at the battery or the 8 gauge block behind the fridge. The only voltage drawn by the fridge would be to run the control board. I never use the dc fridge it is pretty worthless in my opinion. I was thinking of putting a on off switch on the positive line coming from the solar panels. In this case there would be two disconnects when storing but I don't see that as a big problem. Potential heat on the controller from the fridge, I can see where that could be a issue. But all of your suggestions have me rethinking, but that is why I asked. Thanks!

I am going cheapo so as if I screw up it won't be too big of a crisis.:)

looking up that controller at renogy shows me "Self-Consumption: <10mA"
that means is is drawing power from battery even when there is no sun.

its not much, but it all adds up.

I recommend running the shortest runs possible between panels/controller/battery. Also I recommend using some fuses on both sides the have a circuit breaker. A little hard to see in this photo, but this is my set up with renogy 500 watts on the roof. Personally I would not try and use the fridge wiring to home run the battery bank.

That's different- I don't know if it would be issue or not tying into a feed that eventually goes to battery. Other than controllers are not designed to supply load directly- being that its also going to battery, it might not.

But controller also 'reads' battery, possibly interfere with what controller thinks it needs to do? That and feed line, I assume, also goes thru the converters circuit board fuse for that line. Thru converter to get to the battery connections. Doesn't seem as direct as one might think. If fuse blew be like dumping by turning off disconnect.

Placing the controller behind in the refer box, unless it has remote temperature/battery sense for battery location, would see some temp variations that might affect output. That and access- many controllers have ability to shut off charge output. If controller disconnected from batteries long term, unless self powered, may need to reconfigure?

Too many unknown variables for me, may work just fine. Id make the effort to run directly to battery regardless how painful. Just my opinion.
If you do this, set up where panels output can be isolated from controller, switch/fused, and controller isolated from battery unless it had an off for output (so there is no chance for even minimal drain long term if disconnect left on). Then its developing a procedure/sequence of events to disconnect and reconnect solar and follow it. That sounds more painful to me than running wire...again just an opinion.

That is correct buzzcut1. Piano Interesting I certainly didn't think of or know that would happen! Piano when my TC is in storage it is my metal building. It would have a very low if any charge does that make a difference, but the battery disconnect may very well be engaged.
Thanks
Dave

Hi,

If you do so then in storage when the battery disconnect is used the panels may destroy the controller.

Take the time to run wires to the battery bank.

Rbertalotto wrote:
Is the plan to run thx fridge off the panel without a battery? If so, what happens at night? And will 200 watts be enough to run a refrigerator?

If I read him correctly he is just planning on using the 12v wires that run to the fridge to finish off the wire run to the batteries instead of running a full separate line from panels to controller to batteries

his plan: run wires from Panel,to controller, to fridge DC wires which lead to battery

Is the plan to run thx fridge off the panel without a battery? If so, what happens at night? And will 200 watts be enough to run a refrigerator?