Stable load question

*Disclaimer* Mine is a 2001 with a different style of leaf pack.

However, If I remember correctly, each shim is 1/4 inch thick. I used 2 on on the front, and all three on the rear. The front 2 just slide under and make contact with no load. The rear is an inch away and likely only hits on large bumps. I wish the rear set was thicker, adn have considered making at least one larger plate to go under the stock ones.

Thanks. I am going outside to measure the space between the springs.The truck only has about 1 inch of sag so I hope this will solve the problem.

I did 2 in the front and 3 on the rear. They will help with your sag.

Pretty sure the kit only came with 2 each for my 2012 F350

If I remember correctly, the instructions tell you what gap to leave when installing. If they touch with no load, the ride will be quite a bit stiffer. I have the adjustable one, where i can rotate them out of the contact area when unloaded and the truck is just like factory.

I know I did not answer the question, but i am sure you will find it in the instructions.

My 2005 F250 used three wedges on the front and rear of the bottom overload spring to help haul my 4000 lb TC (also used the upper StableLoad pads). I had to unload the rear end to engage/disengage the front ones by jacking up the receiver a little. If I had gone with only two front wedges, this extra step would not be required.

I have a 2012 F350 SRW. I used only one wedge on three of the points and two wedges on one of them to fill in the gap. Maybe my gaps were smaller than some others for some reason. I always jack up the rear of my truck when cranking mine in and out. Much easier this way. I also use upper stable loads for my heavy camper. Pretty easy to install. I have also found the upper stable loads easy to take in and out by jacking up the rear end.

Thank You everyone. I will jack up the truck to install. The camper is ready to go so all we need is some warmer weather hopefully second week in April.

I just installed mine. Stableload quick disconnect style. I could have maybe gotten one in the rear and none in the front without lifting the receiver hitch. But I went with three on the rear and two on the front. I of course will have to lift the rear of the truck when I want to use them. But I will only use them when the camper is on the truck so not a big issue. I haven't tried them yet but just might throw the camper on today to try them out. I called their tech support and they told me no issue with having to jack the rear to install the wedges so that's what I did. Torklift if you are listening I would supply two different size bolts for the main plates that go through the low thick spring. I had to cut a 1/2 inch off of the two front bolts. I still had plenty of thread left to install the nuts. I had what was needed to cut them and a grinder to clean them up. Some people may not and it could be a real pain for them to find the low profile bolts provided.

Although I had manually filled air bags that could have raised the rear suspension enough to engage my lower StableLoad wedges, I found it was quicker to just roll out my shop jack and lift the the receiver slightly rather than pull the air hose over from the compressor or run a smaller compressor off the truck. If you don't have a shop jack or you have on board air, using your air bags to do this works well.

I don't think they will eliminate much more than 1" of sag, but they will will firm up the ride when you are loaded.