stableload quick disconnect

Sorry, read your post backwards. I prefer to start with uppers like you did.

Bedlam wrote:
I think you should run both upper and lower StableLoads. I started with uppers to reduce sag and added lowers for less sway. Once I had the camper and trailer connected, the springs sagged too much on my F250 and made the front run high. If I had the taller blocks of a F350, I might have not needed the air bags, but it was nice having the adjustability based on load.

BTW: Torklift suggests installing the lower first, like you did.

Sorry, I have uppers only installed at the moment. Just bought lowers today. Not installed yet

Thanks

I think you should run both upper and lower StableLoads. I started with uppers to reduce sag and added lowers for less sway. Once I had the camper and trailer connected, the springs sagged too much on my F250 and made the front run high. If I had the taller blocks of a F350, I might have not needed the air bags, but it was nice having the adjustability based on load.

BTW: Torklift suggests installing the lower first, like you did.

I have had the upper stable loads for years. One of the best options I every installed. A few months ago I heard about the lower Stable loads but do not understand what the lower stable loads do exactly. And do you need both lower and upper stable loads?

Paul

Bedlam wrote:
I found my upper StableLoads helped with sag and the lower ones helped with sway. The lower ones don't do that much for sag except for mane the height of the wedges. I used the upper and lower StableLoads to handle the TC and Firestone bags to handle the tongue weight.

I am installing lowers today. I already have uppers, Although there is a marked improvement with some of the sag and sway, it still seems to sag/squat quite a bit when I lower the camper down. I was thinking about removing the uppers IF necessary, after I test it with both installed. So you recommend running both?

I'm of the opinion that the suspension was designed to be fully utilized before the overloads should engage. It seems logical to install lowers first. Then, if needed, uppers. I suppose did it backwards, as I think many do. It just seems incorrect to engage the overloads before the spring pack is fully used. I might be totally wrong.

I found my upper StableLoads helped with sag and the lower ones helped with sway. The lower ones don't do that much for sag except for mane the height of the wedges. I used the upper and lower StableLoads to handle the TC and Firestone bags to handle the tongue weight.

I've got a '15 GMC dually, and put in the lower Stableloads as well. I can only get 2 wedges in with the truck empty and sitting; I also have about 1/2" of clearance between the spring pack and the overload to work with.

With my AF992, the truck sags 3" with 2 wedges in, 3" without. They may make a bit of difference in handling, but unlike my '11 GMC dually with upper stableloads, the sag is too much. Actually, the '11 didn't sag more than a couple inches with the same camper.

I'm going to put air bags on as well, so that I can easily raise the truck, use all 3 wedges, and adjust ride height. With a 5000 lb+ camper and a 5200 lb boat/trailer on a 36" Supertruss extension (no option for a weight-distributing hitch on the trailer), it's just too much sag and really affects ground clearance on the extension.

- Clay

Sometimes using a hammer cures the operator regardless of the project outcome - There's nothing wrong with that.

Bedlam, the hammer was just the quickest way to turn them. I use a ratchet with extension. That particular one was just being stubborn and I got a bit frustrated and hit it to relieve that particular emotion. lol

3 wedges on a 2012 F350 DRW. I do have to jack up the back at the receiver a few inches to swing them out or back in. It's a non-issue really.