I think I've cleared up the stableloads vs airbags issue. Seems the general consensus is that stableloads are the way to go. At least to start with stableloads then add airbags if necessary.There's a forum already on here (now closed) discussing exactly that and I'm so glad I found it because I was about to go with only airbags.Now my question is: Do I want just upper stableloads? Or lower too? I drove my TC from Wisconsin to NY with no problems. It drove like a dream. I had no issues and never felt unsafe. Never felt any sway or instability. But I was told it's not good for the truck. Also, I do notice people flashing their brights at me.

Trucks sit high in the back for one reason. so when you put a max load on them, the truck becomes level. I don't see how putting weight on your truck is going to hurt it. Adding stable-loads its still the same springs carrying the same weight, only its tricked into carrying it higher in the back.You already proved that the truck performs flawlessly with the truck camper on it, I would say adjust your headlights down, and run it the way it is.on my 2015 Ram 3500 Dually, running right at 14,000 lbs GVWR, I need to adjust the headlights 2 complete turns lower on the adjusters (with screw driver) when camper is loaded VRS when running unloaded.all I did to mine was add a Big Wig sway bar. A sway bar does not carry weight, it just opposes the weight from leaning from one side to the other

I don't think there is a consensus. :) If you are having no issues, then I suppose you are just trying to adjust your lights. Count the number of turns to get the lights to the same place they are without the TC.

If your forgetful like me, you can mark the number of turns (or clicks) you changed it with a sharpy under the hood next to the adjustment hole. if your headlight were correct to begin with, both will need to be adjusted the same distanceWhat I did was pull up to a wall at a gas station at night, next to a car that also had its head lights on. I turned mine down so the top of my beam matched the top of there beam :). (and counted the turns.)

jimh425 wrote:I don't think there is a consensus. :) If you are having no issues, then I suppose you are just trying to adjust your lights. Count the number of turns to get the lights to the same place they are without the TC.Thanks for the feedback. Just curious.. I see you have a F450 dually.. yet you still put airbags and bilsteins on it. How come? Granted, my drive from Wisconsin to NY (it's maiden voyage) was strictly freeways. So maybe not the best test for "real life". I do hope to be able to take the rig into national forest territory once she's ready to move into.

towpro wrote:If your forgetful like me, you can mark the number of turns (or clicks) you changed it with a sharpy under the hood next to the adjustment hole. if your headlight were correct to begin with, both will need to be adjusted the same distanceWhat I did was pull up to a wall at a gas station at night, next to a car that also had its head lights on. I turned mine down so the top of my beam matched the top of there beam :). (and counted the turns.)Hah!! So smart! I didn't even realize adjusting my headlights was an option. Going to do that asap. Thanks!!

Stableloads - upper vs. lower - vs. airbags? | Good Sam Community

TxGearhead
Explorer II
Feb 04, 2017
Not to de-rail the thread but...have you CAT scaled the rig? I'm wondering what the 10.6E weighs compared to mine and what Bigfoot advertises.
I'm pushing 3800 with a full water tank and the usual odds and ends.
Bedlam
Moderator
Feb 04, 2017
The rebound on my OEM Ford shocks was gone sometime before 75k miles. I didn't notice it until I went heavier 19.5" wheels. Disconnect one side of your shock to cycle it through the motions. This will tell you if you need shocks now or whether you can wait until convenient or a sale.
RamblinAnne
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017
Tizi wrote:
Biggest change for me was due to new Rancho XL9000 shocks. I also have airbags and anti-sway bar. New 19.5 rims and tires sealed the deal.

Darn... every time I think I've made my mind up on something, I realize my homework is not done. Now I'm looking at upgrading to the Ranchos!

Can you maybe tell me what the differences are between upgrading suspension, adding stableloads, adding airbags, and adding a swaybar? I realize this is not a short response but I am brand new to all of this and I just want to do it right and understand as much as I can. I know all those things help the ride but how exactly?? Which ones are necessary? Which are luxuries? I really appreciate anyone taking the time to help me with this.
RamblinAnne
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017
TxGearhead wrote:
Not to de-rail the thread but...have you CAT scaled the rig? I'm wondering what the 10.6E weighs compared to mine and what Bigfoot advertises.
I'm pushing 3800 with a full water tank and the usual odds and ends.

I wish I could answer but I have not weighed it yet. I'm in the middle of renovating the bigfoot but once it's back on the truck and ready to hit the road, weighing it will be one of the first things I do. It's the only spec I don't yet have.
Tizi
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017
I did the upgrades in this order: anti-sway bar and airbags first. I added the shocks and tires/wheels next. The last 2 upgrades made the most difference. I can't say which since I did them at the same time. If I were doing it again, I would have purchased a 4500/5500.

I use my airbags to level the camper. Also when parked.

I used to have to lower the jacks when parked, now (after shocks and tires/wheels), I don't have to lower them for stability anymore. It used to rock too much for my wife.

I am pretty happy with the way it rides, the last thing I was thinking was a front anti-sway bar.
TxGearhead
Explorer II
Feb 05, 2017
RamblinAnne wrote:
TxGearhead wrote:
Not to de-rail the thread but...have you CAT scaled the rig? I'm wondering what the 10.6E weighs compared to mine and what Bigfoot advertises.
I'm pushing 3800 with a full water tank and the usual odds and ends.

I wish I could answer but I have not weighed it yet. I'm in the middle of renovating the bigfoot but once it's back on the truck and ready to hit the road, weighing it will be one of the first things I do. It's the only spec I don't yet have.

If you never have weighed just the truck, this would be a good time to do it with the camper off. Store the weigh slip in the glove box, then weigh the combined rig when you load it and do the math.
You shouldn't be anywhere near any of the trucks limits being a dually. Just one of those "good to know" things.
tattoobob
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017
I had Air bags and upper Stable Loads first not until I installed the lower Stable Loads the truck handled the load the way it should, After I installed the lower Stable Loads I didn't need the air bags except to level the truck
Tom_Anderson
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017
I started with airbags, then added a Big Wig rear swaybar. Then I didn't do anything else. It's level with the camper loaded, and it doesn't sway. Good enough for me.
burningman
Explorer II
Feb 05, 2017
I like air bags better than spring blocks because I drive my truck everyday and use it for everything.
I like being able to press a button and have it stock-soft (actually even softer than that due to the Kelderman air-ride) then if I have the camper, a trailer, a pallet of bricks, whatever I just dial it as stiff as I want.
If I were carrying the camper full-time, then I'd go with the spring blocks. Set and forget.

About the Rancho 9000s, I've had a few sets of them. Loved them when brand new. But my experience and that of all my friends who have had them is they wear out extremey quickly.
My next set will be the Bilsteins.
Bedlam
Moderator
Feb 05, 2017
Both Blistein and Rancho have lifetime guaranties. It may be a pain to swap out, but you shouldn't have to buy another shock after spending money on these.

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Stableloads - upper vs. lower - vs. airbags?

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