Storing My Diesel Truck Over Winter Advice

fj12ryder wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Run DEF low unless you’re deleted. Run fuel low. Change the oil if you’re OCD and either disconnect or put a battery maintainer on it.

The full fuel tank thing is from times past when tanks had open vent systems and tanks were steel. And even at that, large amounts of condensation are really only a risk if exposed to the elements.
There will be a pile of people that say this is wrong, but I haven’t filled a tank in anything stored off season for 30 years. Carbed, efi, 2 smoke, 4 stroke or diesel.
Even old iron. I just spent 2 years restoring a truck. It did get started occasionally but sat for up to 6 months. Unheated shop, no problem. Only thing I did was put AV gas in the tanks so the fuel didn’t varnish.
All that said, only 6 months, you could turn it off, disconnect the batteries and shut the door and it would still be fine.

Okay, I'm a little confused. Where does the air come from that displaces the fuel as it's pumped out and used? Or does it create a vacuum? If the air isn't run through a drier, then it will have some water vapor in it, which can condense out and precipitate into the fuel.

Modern fuel systems are complicated beasts using valves, solenoids, carbon canisters, etc... They are designed to only allow air in at appropriate times and will actively control it. They are sealed so fuel vapor can't escape into the air when just sitting there.

But even with old fuel systems, it really wasn't an issue. Yes, air can have some water vapor in it but if you run the numbers, if you change out the air daily and extract every molecule you might get a few grams of water in the fuel over 6 months. Easily handled by the trucks separator.

I'm convinced the vast majority of water in fuel comes from the gas station (and it's far less common today) or from leaks leading into the fuel system (more an issue with something like a boat where it's common for the fuel fill to be on a horizontal surface where water can pool around a poorly sealed fill.

SweetLou wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:

SweetLou wrote:
OK, so most are saying to use a battery minder, and a conditioner. If you use a tender/minder, which brand works well, and in 6 months will it boil batteries dry? Mine are wet Costco interstates. Also will Diesel Klean work as conditioner?

I use the NOCO Genius on my batteries and have always used Diesel Klean - Diesel Klean - White

Will the NOCO cook my batteries in 6 mo of maintenance and when power goes out does it reset to your settings automatically? Our power in the shop will go out 4-5 times ea winter for usually 5-10 hours ea time

They will not cook you batteries.... They will only maintain the battery and stop charging when they are full.. No need to reset them, they SHOULD go back to the setting last used.. CALL THEM, they are able to answer these questions for 100 sure....

Grit dog wrote:
Run DEF low unless you’re deleted. Run fuel low. Change the oil if you’re OCD and either disconnect or put a battery maintainer on it.

The full fuel tank thing is from times past when tanks had open vent systems and tanks were steel. And even at that, large amounts of condensation are really only a risk if exposed to the elements.
There will be a pile of people that say this is wrong, but I haven’t filled a tank in anything stored off season for 30 years. Carbed, efi, 2 smoke, 4 stroke or diesel.
Even old iron. I just spent 2 years restoring a truck. It did get started occasionally but sat for up to 6 months. Unheated shop, no problem. Only thing I did was put AV gas in the tanks so the fuel didn’t varnish.
All that said, only 6 months, you could turn it off, disconnect the batteries and shut the door and it would still be fine.

Okay, I'm a little confused. Where does the air come from that displaces the fuel as it's pumped out and used? Or does it create a vacuum? If the air isn't run through a drier, then it will have some water vapor in it, which can condense out and precipitate into the fuel.

ford truck guy wrote:

SweetLou wrote:
OK, so most are saying to use a battery minder, and a conditioner. If you use a tender/minder, which brand works well, and in 6 months will it boil batteries dry? Mine are wet Costco interstates. Also will Diesel Klean work as conditioner?

I use the NOCO Genius on my batteries and have always used Diesel Klean - Diesel Klean - White

Will the NOCO cook my batteries in 6 mo of maintenance and when power goes out does it reset to your settings automatically? Our power in the shop will go out 4-5 times ea winter for usually 5-10 hours ea time

SweetLou wrote:
OK, so most are saying to use a battery minder, and a conditioner. If you use a tender/minder, which brand works well, and in 6 months will it boil batteries dry? Mine are wet Costco interstates. Also will Diesel Klean work as conditioner?

I use the NOCO Genius on my batteries and have always used Diesel Klean - Diesel Klean - White

SweetLou wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Skip the maintainer. Make sure all fluids are topped off and the batteries are fully charged. Remove BOTH negative leads.

For extra insurance, put blocks under the frame so that there is no weight on the tires.

If you disconnect the batteries, then the computer won't remember anything. Wise?

Been doing it for years...so what if the computer reboots in the spring?

One caveat: This presumes a battery in good condition. A charged battery won't freeze in the temps mentioned. A dead battery can. A battery in good condition won't be dead in the spring.

As others have said, some fuel treatment isn't a bad idea but water from condensation is largely an old wives tale and with new sealed fuel systems, doubly so.

Do check there isn't anything in the cab that can freeze (that bottle of coke that fell between the seats can make a sticky mess to clean in the spring).

It's not rocket science.

OK, so most are saying to use a battery minder, and a conditioner. If you use a tender/minder, which brand works well, and in 6 months will it boil batteries dry? Mine are wet Costco interstates. Also will Diesel Klean work as conditioner?

Like some mentioned before me... Make sure the fuel is treated for winter, you can use additive if you choose ( personal preference ) top off fluids if you desire and I use a maintainer on my batteries.

I rarely drive my truck in winter so I do have an onboard maintainer for the batteries and keep it on that. Also as others have said fill up the tank and use some type of conditioner. Most importantly, make sure you pat its hood and tell her what a good job she has done this year and let her take a rest.

Run DEF low unless you’re deleted. Run fuel low. Change the oil if you’re OCD and either disconnect or put a battery maintainer on it.

The full fuel tank thing is from times past when tanks had open vent systems and tanks were steel. And even at that, large amounts of condensation are really only a risk if exposed to the elements.
There will be a pile of people that say this is wrong, but I haven’t filled a tank in anything stored off season for 30 years. Carbed, efi, 2 smoke, 4 stroke or diesel.
Even old iron. I just spent 2 years restoring a truck. It did get started occasionally but sat for up to 6 months. Unheated shop, no problem. Only thing I did was put AV gas in the tanks so the fuel didn’t varnish.
All that said, only 6 months, you could turn it off, disconnect the batteries and shut the door and it would still be fine.