Suburban 2500 experience

I don't have a burb but I have Bilsteins shocks on my HD. The 5100 is for trucks that have a lift and the 4600 is made for stock higth from what I was told. I have a stock truck but have the 5100s series on my truck and love the ride. Sorry could not offer any more on the other question.

I had an ‘05 Burb with an 8.1. The replacement rear shocks went for around $600 each. :M
This thread might help. It is from 2007 though. Perhaps someone has come up with a better solution by now. Best of luck!

Mortimer Brewster wrote:
I had an ‘05 Burb with an 8.1. The replacement rear shocks went for around $600 each. :M
This thread might help. It is from 2007 though. Perhaps someone has come up with a better solution by now. Best of luck!

Thats crazy. I think there are 2-3 people on here that have done the shock swap. I can't remember their user names though.

I'm just the guy you are looking for....I bypassed my AutoRide system in 2013 and have no regrets.

There is basically no way to disconnect the Ride Control Computer (RCC) because it interfaces with the PCM, BCM, and ABS to get the data it needs to adjust shock stiffness. The fix is to wire a resistor in place of each shock absorber to fool the system into thinking there are shocks connected.

Here are the resistors you need eBay, these are the same ones I used. You'll need to order two pairs.

When you remove the OEM shock, you will see a two-wire harness that connects to the top of the shock. Unplug that connector from the shock and cut off the factory connector. Connect the two wires to the resistor. You can use the supplied crimp connectors, or solder the connections like I did on mine. I would recommend heat shrink tubing over the entire resistor and connections to keep the weather out. Zip tie the wires out of the way so they are not flopping around and install the shock of your choice.

Once all the resistors are installed, start the truck and you should not have any "Service Ride Control" message. There is no need to disconnect the battery or reset the system, the RCC sees the resistors and thinks shocks are connected and all is well. As I said, I did this back in 2013 and have not had any ride control error messages at all.

You'll note that 3 of the OEM shocks have plastic dust shields for the piston, the RR shock has a metal one. The reason is that the exhaust routes very close to the RR shock location. I got one of these heat shields and clamped to to the exhaust were it runs by the shock and have not had any warpage or distortion on the plastic dust cover of the new shock.

I orginally installed KYB Monomax as replacement shocks...the truck rode very firm but the handling was very controlled. Everybody recommended Bilsteins, but I was also doing a bunch of other work to the truck including brake and fuel lines, so I was watching the budget and couldn't drop the extra coin on the Bilsteins.

The KYBs needed replacing this spring and I decided to spring for the Bilsteins. I got the yellow/blue 4600's because according to Bilstein the 5100's are for lifted trucks. What a disappointment! The truck wallowed and bounced all over the road...on a bumpy road it felt like the rear axle was going to come up through the floor. Maybe pickup trucks have a different handling dynamic, maybe guys like a softer ride, I don't know. I ordered another set of KYBs and sold the Bilsteins on Craigs List, and couldn't be happier. Bear in mind this is only my opinion, you get whatever shocks you like.

Hope this helps, feel free to PM with any specific questions or if you run into issues.

I replaced my shocks with Bilsteins and disabled my Auto Ride by pulling the fuse under the hood (didn’t use resistors). Disconnect the negative side of the battery before pulling the fuse and you won’t get the Auto Ride light.

BurbMan wrote:
I'm just the guy you are looking for....I bypassed my AutoRide system in 2013 and have no regrets.

There is basically no way to disconnect the Ride Control Computer (RCC) because it interfaces with the PCM, BCM, and ABS to get the data it needs to adjust shock stiffness. The fix is to wire a resistor in place of each shock absorber to fool the system into thinking there are shocks connected.

Here are the resistors you need eBay, these are the same ones I used. You'll need to order two pairs.

When you remove the OEM shock, you will see a two-wire harness that connects to the top of the shock. Unplug that connector from the shock and cut off the factory connector. Connect the two wires to the resistor. You can use the supplied crimp connectors, or solder the connections like I did on mine. I would recommend heat shrink tubing over the entire resistor and connections to keep the weather out. Zip tie the wires out of the way so they are not flopping around and install the shock of your choice.

Once all the resistors are installed, start the truck and you should not have any "Service Ride Control" message. There is no need to disconnect the battery or reset the system, the RCC sees the resistors and thinks shocks are connected and all is well. As I said, I did this back in 2013 and have not had any ride control error messages at all.

You'll note that 3 of the OEM shocks have plastic dust shields for the piston, the RR shock has a metal one. The reason is that the exhaust routes very close to the RR shock location. I got one of these heat shields and clamped to to the exhaust were it runs by the shock and have not had any warpage or distortion on the plastic dust cover of the new shock.

I orginally installed KYB Monomax as replacement shocks...the truck rode very firm but the handling was very controlled. Everybody recommended Bilsteins, but I was also doing a bunch of other work to the truck including brake and fuel lines, so I was watching the budget and couldn't drop the extra coin on the Bilsteins.

The KYBs needed replacing this spring and I decided to spring for the Bilsteins. I got the yellow/blue 4600's because according to Bilstein the 5100's are for lifted trucks. What a disappointment! The truck wallowed and bounced all over the road...on a bumpy road it felt like the rear axle was going to come up through the floor. Maybe pickup trucks have a different handling dynamic, maybe guys like a softer ride, I don't know. I ordered another set of KYBs and sold the Bilsteins on Craigs List, and couldn't be happier. Bear in mind this is only my opinion, you get whatever shocks you like.

Hope this helps, feel free to PM with any specific questions or if you run into issues.

Thank you. That is exactly what i needed. It seems like the shock opinions are all over the board for these trucks. Most people say the 5100's are worth their weight in gold and then some say they suck....

mrgrim007 wrote:
I replaced my shocks with Bilsteins and disabled my Auto Ride by pulling the fuse under the hood (didn’t use resistors). Disconnect the negative side of the battery before pulling the fuse and you won’t get the Auto Ride light.

What year and model is your TV? I thought this didn't work? Maybe it won't work on the 1500 style autoride but will on the 2500 style?

anw7405 wrote:

mrgrim007 wrote:
I replaced my shocks with Bilsteins and disabled my Auto Ride by pulling the fuse under the hood (didn’t use resistors). Disconnect the negative side of the battery before pulling the fuse and you won’t get the Auto Ride light.

What year and model is your TV? I thought this didn't work? Maybe it won't work on the 1500 style autoride but will on the 2500 style?

2002 Suburban 2500 8.1, 4.10. Did this in July and is working great so far.

mrgrim007 wrote:

anw7405 wrote:

mrgrim007 wrote:
I replaced my shocks with Bilsteins and disabled my Auto Ride by pulling the fuse under the hood (didn’t use resistors). Disconnect the negative side of the battery before pulling the fuse and you won’t get the Auto Ride light.

What year and model is your TV? I thought this didn't work? Maybe it won't work on the 1500 style autoride but will on the 2500 style?

2002 Suburban 2500 8.1, 4.10. Did this in July and is working great so far.

Hmm. I might have to try that. Seems super easy.

I had read that pulling the fuse won't do it, because at start up the BCM checks for communication with the RCC, and if the RCC is offline it displays the Service Ride Control message. That said, a few folks like MrGrimm have reported that pulling the fuse works, no issues.

The only way to truly disable AutoRide is to take the Z55 RPO code out of the BCM, and most dealers won't do that.