Suburban Water Heater help

I did not completely remove the tapered hole. I tapped in but not all the way. In either case the anode rod doesn't seem to really fit great and this is even in a new fitting. I guess it is supposed to be really tight? No way it screws all the way to the existing hole or any NPT fitting.

What I ended up doing to prevent further degradation of the threaded hole is I used a brass male to male adapter combined with a female to female adapter. I used teflon and tightened both down tight enough to where they will not move when the anode rode is inserted. So now when I insert or remove the rod it is only in the new brass fitting instead of the original degraded threaded hold. No leaks whatsoever but I do remove the old teflon and add more when I remove and reinsert. Seems to work great. The only minor drawback is the rod doesn't go as far into the tank but the entire rod is still exposed to water. I kinda like the drain hole protruding out further from the tank.

Water is heated to 130*F......water swells as it is heated.......as it swells pressure is increased

YOU have removed the 'tapered' sections of threads in drain hole

Anode Rod threads are 'tapered'

Old/new etc anode rods will probably NOT seal due to the lack of tapered threads in drain hole

All you can do is wrap anode rod threads with several wraps of teflon tape and see if it seals under normal conditions........full water pressure and heated to temp.

So I guess I screwed up but I don't think it is the end of the world. I tapped the tapered end but when I put in the new rod why can't I just silicone it or use another non permanent sealant? I think I can even temp seal the old rod in there if I had to. I did not damage the tank. It seems like it is extremely tough. Have not actually tested the heater yet so not sure if it worked to being with but either way I think I will be fine.

72cougarxr7 wrote:
Is your tap set NPT? Every one I have ever seen was 3/4 NPT. If your tap set is standard thread and not NPT that is your problem, and do not use that to tap the hole or you will likely ruin the water heater. Any plumbing supply house or home improvement center should have a 3/4 NPT tap on the shelf!

Exactly^^^^^^^^^

The pipe nipple worked........because it was NPT (National Pipe Thread)
which is TAPERED

Suburban has ONLY used 3/4" NPT

Hopefully OP didn't use that 1" SAE tap cause he will now have to buy a whole new water heater.
Suburban doesn't sell just tanks due to them being glass-lined

Is your tap set NPT? Every one I have ever seen was 3/4 NPT. If your tap set is standard thread and not NPT that is your problem, and do not use that to tap the hole or you will likely ruin the water heater. Any plumbing supply house or home improvement center should have a 3/4 NPT tap on the shelf!

The pipe nipple method got me all the way to about 2.5 threads left, which is still pretty far away. After the 7th try of not getting further I gave up.

Today during lunch I went to Harbor Freight to get a tap. They didn't have individual taps so I just got the whole big SAE set, thinking I needed 3/4. Everything I have read says it is 3/4. The anode rod coming tomorrow is 3/4. Low and behold I go out to tap 10 min ago and it is one freakin' inch! Was that the drain hole size back in 2005?

Not sure why I didn't measure it as an estimate but 3/4 seemed about right. It is not even close. Luckily the tap set I got goes up to 1 inch so I am headed back out to tap it and also die the old rod straight since the new one coming tomorrow won't fit. Maybe I can get a 3/4 to 1 inch adapter to still use it.

Thanks guys. Any other advice keep it coming.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

saintsfanfl wrote:

Vet Man wrote:
Use the proper socket for removal, chase the treads with a tap before replacing with a new anode rod. Use Teflon tape on new treads.

Removal of the rod or the hole insert? The hole itself has no socket. I can see little holes if I remove the foam gasket looking thing but not sure what type of tool that would be.

I have a tap set but not for something that big. Does anyone know the thread size of the rod and hole? It doesn't say on the rod info.

Drain hole is 3/4" NPT (steel)

Knock down crud using a screw driver/punch etc to remove heavy build up------just in opening NOT the threads

Then as suggested......
a pipe nipple and some CLR
Spray the CLR solution full strength onto threads and let it soak
Then screw nipple in/out.....in/out---slowly chasing the threads
Remove nipple and spray with CLR
Repeat until threads are cleaned up

Then turn on water supply and let it blast out thru drain hole flush tank of crud/sediment

X2

Bruce

saintsfanfl wrote:

Vet Man wrote:
Use the proper socket for removal, chase the treads with a tap before replacing with a new anode rod. Use Teflon tape on new treads.

Removal of the rod or the hole insert? The hole itself has no socket. I can see little holes if I remove the foam gasket looking thing but not sure what type of tool that would be.

I have a tap set but not for something that big. Does anyone know the thread size of the rod and hole? It doesn't say on the rod info.

Drain hole is 3/4" NPT (steel)

Knock down crud using a screw driver/punch etc to remove heavy build up------just in opening NOT the threads

Then as suggested......
a pipe nipple and some CLR
Spray the CLR solution full strength onto threads and let it soak
Then screw nipple in/out.....in/out---slowly chasing the threads
Remove nipple and spray with CLR
Repeat until threads are cleaned up

Then turn on water supply and let it blast out thru drain hole flush tank of crud/sediment

I use a wire brush to clean the threads on my WH. It is available at most hardware stores. It is for cleaning copper pipe, and fits right in your electric drill.

Jerry

Vet Man wrote:
Use the proper socket for removal, chase the treads with a tap before replacing with a new anode rod. Use Teflon tape on new treads.

Removal of the rod or the hole insert? The hole itself has no socket. I can see little holes if I remove the foam gasket looking thing but not sure what type of tool that would be.

I have a tap set but not for something that big. Does anyone know the thread size of the rod and hole? It doesn't say on the rod info.