Synthetic Oils

What do they use in those Nascar engines that allow 9600 RPM?

Maybe where it gets real cold but don't see the point in my climate. 15-40 year round, oil changes as recommended or when the computer says so, which ever comes first.

^^^^^ great post and spot on.

well sorta... its like Ford vs Dodge vs Chevy, to each there own

put over 250,000 on the ole 2005 CTD using that bas terd new fangled synthetic and OMG! I used 5W40 Shell Rotella year round and it gets cold up here...week straight of -40C/F. My oil samples never showed any "abnormal" wear metals...kind throws yer theory out da window eh?


p.s. I'll add this as well, I ran Fox racing shocks on my truck, they would take bushings like nobody's business (due to cold weather) until I pulled the "mineral oil" err, I mean dino oil and replaced with synthetic oil, never had issues with premature wear on the shock bushings again. Will be doing the same when my Bilstein 5160s show up for my 2013 Ram 35000 as well.

p.s.s. do your own test, pour a cup each of 5W40 dino oil and synthetic stick em da freezer for 24 hrs. Then you decide which one you wanna use.

elkhornsun wrote:
So long as the base stock oil meets the API standards it matters not at all whether you use mineral or synthetic motor oil. The only exception is in extremely cold (below 0 degrees F) or extremely hot (plus 120 degrees F) weather. The synthetic formulations that are 5W40 will provide less protection under most driving conditions than a 15W40 mineral oil. 15-20% of what is in a gallon of oil are additives and it is these additives that determine how well the oil performs.

Synthetics which cost 2-3 times as much as mineral oils cannot be justified because the oil can be changed less often. The additive package consisting of detergent, dispersant, and antioxidants will degrade over time regardless of the type of base stock that is used. The only way to replenish this additive package is to take out the old oil and put in new oil.

With diesel engines there is also an accumulation of soot and sludge and the only way to remove this from the oil is by changing out the oil and the filter. The more severe the duty level the more frequent the need to change the oil and it can change by a factor of 4.

I grew up in the days of STP and the "racers' edge" advertising and people still buy into this today with synthetic motor oil. The only places where synthetics are better is in the transmission.

Synthetics also are subject to a phenomena known as polymer shear that occurs with multi-grade motor oil as it passes through the small openings in a bear journal and its effective "weight" is greatly reduced. A 5W40 motor oil may become a 1W40 motor oil and this will greatly accelerate bearing wear.

The exception to all this is cheap mineral oils which are rated as Grade I or Grade II and do not meet the API standards for a Group III motor oil. The bargain oils are not a good choice unless your engine is already burning through oil at a rapid rate.

I consider heavy hauling and towing to be "severe" duty and adjust the service intervals based on the percentage of time the truck is used in this manner. For me it is 50% so I average the severe and normal duty recommendations on motor oil and ATF and filters replacement for the engine and transmission.

I have put more than 170,000 miles on each of the 8 trucks I have owned and my brother has over 300,000 miles on his Toyota and we both use only mineral oil in our trucks and we have never had an engine failure or even enough ring and cylinder wear to require adding oil between changes.

^^^^^ great post and spot on.

OP, you can go to a syn oil now if you want. Like has been said, no real reason to unless you live in real low temps. That is where syn oils shine.

So long as the base stock oil meets the API standards it matters not at all whether you use mineral or synthetic motor oil. The only exception is in extremely cold (below 0 degrees F) or extremely hot (plus 120 degrees F) weather. The synthetic formulations that are 5W40 will provide less protection under most driving conditions than a 15W40 mineral oil. 15-20% of what is in a gallon of oil are additives and it is these additives that determine how well the oil performs.

Synthetics which cost 2-3 times as much as mineral oils cannot be justified because the oil can be changed less often. The additive package consisting of detergent, dispersant, and antioxidants will degrade over time regardless of the type of base stock that is used. The only way to replenish this additive package is to take out the old oil and put in new oil.

With diesel engines there is also an accumulation of soot and sludge and the only way to remove this from the oil is by changing out the oil and the filter. The more severe the duty level the more frequent the need to change the oil and it can change by a factor of 4.

I grew up in the days of STP and the "racers' edge" advertising and people still buy into this today with synthetic motor oil. The only places where synthetics are better is in the transmission.

Synthetics also are subject to a phenomena known as polymer shear that occurs with multi-grade motor oil as it passes through the small openings in a bear journal and its effective "weight" is greatly reduced. A 5W40 motor oil may become a 1W40 motor oil and this will greatly accelerate bearing wear.

The exception to all this is cheap mineral oils which are rated as Grade I or Grade II and do not meet the API standards for a Group III motor oil. The bargain oils are not a good choice unless your engine is already burning through oil at a rapid rate.

I consider heavy hauling and towing to be "severe" duty and adjust the service intervals based on the percentage of time the truck is used in this manner. For me it is 50% so I average the severe and normal duty recommendations on motor oil and ATF and filters replacement for the engine and transmission.

I have put more than 170,000 miles on each of the 8 trucks I have owned and my brother has over 300,000 miles on his Toyota and we both use only mineral oil in our trucks and we have never had an engine failure or even enough ring and cylinder wear to require adding oil between changes.

I use it because my V-10 likes to rev. Also, if we go out on the road, I don't have toworry about oil changes while we are gone.

If you tow heavy, it is a good idea. The syn lasts far longer then dino when you abuse it (elevated temps). I run T6 in both my trucks.

I changed my oil for the first time at about 1200 miles when I did my first oil change and that is when I switched over to synthetic, usually Mobil 1. I change whenever the DIC says to change it or 7500 miles, whichever comes first. I also recycle my oil so I have no qualms about affording synthetic as I certainly don't want to have to spend any larger oil related expense - ever.

It's been shown too many times to be unnecessary but just the same, I started using Mobil-1 at the second oil change. I change it every 7500 miles. If all it does is make me sleep better, that's good enough for me.

Mobil 1 has a very good website. They claim the change can be made at any time. When I bought my Cummins, the Cummins tech center said that with diesels it wouldn't really make much difference since the oil reserve is so big. They said it would definitely help with a gas engine since synthetic dissipates heat much faster. They also strongly advised against extending oil change times.