I am going to seal my entire TC this fall and I have several questions.I understand that I need the following products. Could you guys confirm or recommend the right product and quantities?> Geocel ProFlex RV – white. 3 tubes sufficient?> Geocel ProFlex RV – clear. 3 tubes sufficient?> Dicor self-leveling lap sealant – white for the roof. What quantity do I need?> I can’t find Geocel MHRV 2300 anywhere online. Was this product discontinued? Did Geocel ProFlex RV replace it?> I am not clear on what is a TPO roof, but I don’t think I have that type. I believe that I have aluminum roof. Those of you familiar with my model, am I right? Or, how can I verify it?> I am planning to wax it and remove oxidation as well. Should I do this before or after sealing it?Many thanks for your help!Tony

I just went through mine. Did most of the roof with eternabond tape. I used some dicor self leveling also on the roof. The eternabond seems great but I will be interested in seeing how well it stays stuck in place. The dicor seemed to work very well also. I used sikaflex for everything else. I cleaned where I was caulking with mineral spirits then cleaned off with water before re caulking. Remember don't use any silicon anywhere on the outside of your camper.

Proflex RV in 'brite white' if you can find it. 'White' tends to yellow.

dave17352 wrote:I just went through mine. Did most of the roof with eternabond tape. I used some dicor self leveling also on the roof. The eternabond seems great but I will be interested in seeing how well it stays stuck in place. The dicor seemed to work very well also. I used sikaflex for everything else. I cleaned where I was caulking with mineral spirits then cleaned off with water before re caulking. Remember don't use any silicon anywhere on the outside of your camper.whats wrong with silicon? I haven't used any im just curious what it does or what happens to it.

If it's alum, just wash it with TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate). Rinse with plenty of water all the way down the sides. Right after the top we always washed the sides with a Turtle Wax Wash. After it's dry go up and remove any cracked caulking with a plastic scraper. Then just use the self leveling sealant around every opening through the alum, vents, skylights, AC etc.I had a TT with alum roof, loved it. After 18 yrs still looked new except for some hail indentations. We never had any black streaks using the TSP. Just make sure to rinse the sides or it will fade the paint. I used a cup of TSP powder in about 3 to 4 gal of water.

We have been switched to Liquid Roof instead of Dicor on the roof seams, by our Lance Dealer. It has been very effective, easier to apply with a brush, and not as expensive. Follow the directions, of course, and be sure to stir the two parts with a stirrer affixed to a portable drill. We froze the remaining stuff, it worked fine after thawing.

TC Camper Sealant Questions | Good Sam Community

explorer0863
Explorer
Sep 22, 2013
I started today after lunch and stopped around 6pm. The right side is ready for the sealant. It took more time to clean everything with Naphta than removing the old sealant, but it looks clean and ready for the next phase. If the weather cooperates as it did today, and depending on how long it takes me to re-seal it, I will probably start getting the left side ready tomorrow. Thank you for great advise and all tips.
weedrancher
Explorer
Sep 22, 2013
Just re-sealed the top side of my TC. Used three tubes ProFlex white, one tube ProFlex clear, and three tubes Dicor 501. I've used EternaBond tape in the past but after approx 4 years, it is not sticking to the old sealant. A heat gun is your friend when removing old sealant and tape. Do be careful because molten sealant on your skin is no fun:E
12V_Cummins
Explorer
Sep 22, 2013
I use silicone on my campers. I do not depend only of the silicone, but more to protect the important secondary seal and it makes the camper look much better. Never had any issues with it and my camper(s) have never leaked.
covered_wagon
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013
Silicone is great for making long lasting rubber bumper stoppers for your swing out door.

If your door ever gets caught in a wind gust you might find out how hard your existing stopper is from years in the sun when you see the nice hole it made in your door.

All you do is make a conical mold out of the cardboard center off a roll of toilet paper. Fill it with silicone, trying not to get any air bubbles. Stick the right size screw in the end and let cure for about 2-3 weeks and wash off cardboard under warm water.

You will have a very soft, very effective, long lasting door stop.

Off topic I know, just don't throw silicone away yet.
MTRhino
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013
Don't want to hijack your thread but had a friend stay in our yard last night with his new to them 5th wheel. The previous owner had used silicone in a few places and was not very neat about it. We were trying to remove the excess when I grabbed a can of Turtle Wax sticker remover I had. It helped a lot in removing the thin film around the edges and the residue. Just an FYI, now back to your regular scheduled program.
explorer0863
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013
deltabravo wrote:
How much Dicor you need depends on the amount of repairs needed. 3 tubes is a good start, but more might be needed.

Ok. I bought 3 of each. They gave me a 15% discount, which was nice. We'll see how far it will take me.
explorer0863
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013
whizbang wrote:
You picked exactly the correct sealants. Dicor and Geocel are the best.

The old Dicor comes off easily with a heat gun. Application of new Dicor is not critical --- just make sure you cover the seams. Gloop it on.

Great! Could you elaborate on how to use the heat gun for this? I have a heat gun and it has 2 settings. If you can explain your technique, it will be very helpful. Thanks!
explorer0863
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013
bobndot wrote:
Proflex RV in 'brite white' if you can find it. 'White' tends to yellow.

Ok, the store had it, so I bought it instead of just white. Thanks!
explorer0863
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013
Thank you all for the great information.

I went to my local RV store today and bought the sealants. Still need to go to HD tomorrow and get the solvents. Weather permitting, I'll start the process tomorrow or Sunday. I wanted to wait until later in the fall because the temperatures are still high these days, but I am all fired up and motivated.

We'll see how much progress I can make this weekend.

Tony
d3500ram
Explorer III
Sep 20, 2013
All it takes is one time to try to remove silicon to find out why it should not be used.

The owner on a previous camper used it and the only way I could get it off was to physically scrub it off. No solvent (and I tried almost all available) would take it off.

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