TC Refrigerator blows 30 amp fuse in truck
I have a 2005 Lance truck camper with a 3-way refrigerator. I've tried using the DC setting twice and both times it caused a 30 amp fuse to blow in my truck's fuse box. It seems I read somewhere tha...
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I like the electric power while on the road for safety reasons.
Even the fridge open flame is on other side than my fuel door, my discomfort for driving with open propane valve come from motorhomes, where lot of total losses were due flat tire rupturing propane line mounted on top of inner fender.
Point is that standard 30 amp wire has too much voltage loss on the length those wires run and even when you start with fully charged camper battery, after some driving the refrigerator will drain it.
Other thing is that 12V operation is on smaller output, while I camp in very hot weather and good cooling is crucial.
So this is my winter project to either run heavy 12V wires to the camper, or having factory inverter in my Ford - I might run 120V wire just for the refrigerator.
The problem with 2nd option is that when I stop the truck, what kills inverter, the fridge circuit will try to ignite propane.
Even the fridge open flame is on other side than my fuel door, my discomfort for driving with open propane valve come from motorhomes, where lot of total losses were due flat tire rupturing propane line mounted on top of inner fender.
Point is that standard 30 amp wire has too much voltage loss on the length those wires run and even when you start with fully charged camper battery, after some driving the refrigerator will drain it.
Other thing is that 12V operation is on smaller output, while I camp in very hot weather and good cooling is crucial.
So this is my winter project to either run heavy 12V wires to the camper, or having factory inverter in my Ford - I might run 120V wire just for the refrigerator.
The problem with 2nd option is that when I stop the truck, what kills inverter, the fridge circuit will try to ignite propane.
