Forum Discussion
towpro
Jan 18, 2017Explorer
as someone that still has there PA state Inspection for inspecting trailers (even over 10K lbs) I would have no problem with what is shown in the first picture. welds look good from what I can see. Maybe a plate under the Front edge where the "A" comes to center plate would give you more strength, that appears to be where the trailer weight is transferred into tong weight. I am not a (good) welder so maybe the plate is not needed.
and I would not be worried about it being "tight". Ever seen those single axle drive on trailer? same concept where the tong goes back almost to axle, and whole bed flips up while tong is still attached to vehicle. when bed is down it might provide some left to right support but not much.
as far as using that CURT extension to make your telescopic trailer, that extension has a bend to it and I don't think your internal 2" would slide in that far.
But no fear, any metal shop that makes stuff should have the 2 different size tubes you need, pre measure and they will even make a nice cut in it for you. out my way they Amish metal shop might even charge me $1.00 per hole to pre drill it.
I would not worry about making it tight. its the same fit as your hitch sliding into your truck receiver. It will not clunk any worse than your hitch does.
in fact since the bearing surface between the two is so long it might make less noise than your current hitch.
but I would run safety chains to the main trailer A frame parts, along with break away switch.
and I would not be worried about it being "tight". Ever seen those single axle drive on trailer? same concept where the tong goes back almost to axle, and whole bed flips up while tong is still attached to vehicle. when bed is down it might provide some left to right support but not much.
as far as using that CURT extension to make your telescopic trailer, that extension has a bend to it and I don't think your internal 2" would slide in that far.
But no fear, any metal shop that makes stuff should have the 2 different size tubes you need, pre measure and they will even make a nice cut in it for you. out my way they Amish metal shop might even charge me $1.00 per hole to pre drill it.
I would not worry about making it tight. its the same fit as your hitch sliding into your truck receiver. It will not clunk any worse than your hitch does.
in fact since the bearing surface between the two is so long it might make less noise than your current hitch.
but I would run safety chains to the main trailer A frame parts, along with break away switch.
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