Thor Wanderer Glide Lite - Furnace/Hot Water Heater q's?

Suburban NT-16SE Manual

Atwood G6A-8E Manual

Your WH is propane only so ON/OFF switch is on panel inside RV and is for the propane operation. Switches on backside were for electric element (Gas 6 gallon 8th version electronic ignition)

Oh yeah, one other thing I did learn over the weekend. That propane sensor does actually interrupt the flow somehow for the propane. Two of the people I was camping with actually told me to look specifically there as both of their 5th wheels also had this same interrupt system. Apparently if the sensor isn't in a "safe" mode (green light) it is somehow interrupting the gas line. I was able to confirm that with the fuse out, my stove had no gas going to it. With the fuse back in and a green light, propane began to flow through.

Thank-you to both of the folks who have mentioned owning this same trailer, that's great to hear that you had good experiences with it! We're hoping to have this one for a couple of years and then maybe step up to something bigger along with a 3/4 ton pull vehicle. Our current pull vehicle is a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ with the VortecMax aluminum 6.0L and the NHT heavy duty towing package. It pulls this trailer quite nicely, even going through the Sierras with the wife and I, a few loaded ice chests, two big German Shepherds and the trailer in tow. I'm not quite sure I believe that the trailer is 3680# dry though, it "felt" heavier than that when I was towing it home after purchase with nothing in it.

Troyman,
This doesn't help with your problems but I have to say we owned that very camper,model year 1999,from 2000 till 2012 and towed it many miles off road as well as on road and never had a single problem. They are a good rig for the money.
Tinbender

Ok, thanks for the warnings on the propane line purging, I'll leave that to the pros.

For the appliances themselves:
Brand/Model Furnace: Suburban NT-16SE

Brand/Model Water Heater: Atwood G6A-8E

Batteries: 2 brand new 12V deep cycle batteries, both fully drip charged. I am only running one battery at a time so far, as I haven't had enough load yet to even barely tap any of the reserve yet. Prior to our first trip, I also went through and replaced all of the incandescent bulbs in the interior with LEDs which I believe made a pretty significant difference on draw. Aside from that, we've only ran the refrigerator and I keep a constant eye on the battery draw to see what my expectancy is going to be for each battery. At this point, I've only been using the meter in the trailer which is a pretty simple bar indicator showing fully charged, but I am also adding in a LED volt meter in line so that I can see what the true voltage is across the batteries.

I actually have located the manual for both of these two appliances, however some of the settings in each of the manuals don't quite jive with what is actually on the appliances themselves. For instance, the manual for the Furnace indicates that there should be an "off" setting on the thermostat which does not exist, just a slide setting for turning the heat up. For the water heater, they refer to a on/off switch on the 6 gallon version (like mine) that I do not have (or it is not on the back of the water heater where everything else is).

The more I am opening up service panels though, the more I am noticing that there is some contamination on the metal surfaces. I bought this trailer from someone that was close to the bay area, so I'm starting to think that I need to start by cleaning off of the contact surfaces and making sure I have good electrical contacts.

Also, for the person that mentioned about the propane sensor date, I did check that and it was dated Sept. 1999. Looks like an item on my shopping list, thank you!

Furnace needs good strong 12V DC power to operate......fan motor runs on 12V DC,control circuit uses 12V DC to open gas valve and to provide spark.

Which Brand/model of furnace?

Water heater....
Needs good strong 12V DC to operate on gas.

Which Brand/model of water heater?

SOooooooo.....has good is your battery voltage? Have you tested the DC fuses....don't just look test that you have 12V DC on each side of fuses.

The propane detector....fuse pulled because it probably was beeping and irritating previous owner. Check the backside of detector for expiration date..usually 5-7 yrs. so you are due for a new one.
Now sure why it made your propane work.....on a travel trailer they do not trip the propane. Some motor homes have a shut-off solenoid that trips closed when LP Detector alarms. Haven't seen that on a trailer trailer or 5th wheel trailer with portable propane cylinders


You can crack the gas line fitting at furnace/water heater to check that you have propane flow up to them. NO SMOKING/OPEN FLAMES!!!!!!!
After re-tightening fitting...check with soapy solution for any leak

We had that identical TT for ten years until we traded it for a larger unit last year. I don't recall that we ever had any problems with the propane system, but as the previous poster said, don't try to mess with that yourself. Have it done professionally.

We had many great trips in our Glide Lite. Hope you have many, too.

Do not blow air through the propane lines. If you do not know what you are doing please get help from someone who does propane can be deadly. You purge the lines with propane you go from fixture to fixture to purge the lines and most water heaters start with the 12 volt system.