Timed vs inertia brake controllers

Thank you to everyone who tows and owns brake controller(s) for your input.

A decision has been made...

Try all the controllers out there, then try a MaxBrake controller. Then you will know what the VERY BEST controller on the market is.

Literally when you tow with a MaxBrake you feel like you are driving your TV without a trailer in tow. No jerking, delay or having to adjust anything after the initial setup. Well worth the $350!!!!!!!!

There is more to braking than some think...especially here

Modulation is king and the shape of that curve critical to how I like my brakes
in all of my vehicles

Too many think if they can skid or initiate ABS is all they need/want for braking
There is more to it than that, as most decent to even mud hen friction materials
'can' skid to initiate ABS, and if no ABS...skid the tires

My brakes can be modulated to where they can out stop the pure ABS point...as
can modulate the tires from stopping or slowing down to where ABS look up tables
says to initiate

This image is of an old set of Michelin LTX-MS LT265/75R16E's on 16x10 alloys

ABS will NOT allow this to happen, even though my Sub has 3 ABS sensors. Two
on the front two and one for the two rear drums

Enough, as know or think most of you won't or don't understand what that is all
about

To Marty or whomever is the moderator, I'll stop talking technical forward and
stick to just the controller itself

Time based brake controllers do work - they apply the trailer brakes - but they do NOT work relative to what a driver may want.

Time based controllers have 2 settings:
- Max voltage - you set this based on your rig and how your tow vehicle controls the trailer
- Time - this is in seconds. The time is used to define the slope of output voltage. Always starts at 0 and ramps up til either you remove your foot from the brake pedal or the brake controller times out. At that point you will reach the preset voltage output.

If you set the brake controller time for 3 seconds it will take 3 seconds before you reach the preset voltage output no matter how much braking you want or need.

To get immediate maximum braking you need to set the voltage output to the maximum and set the time to 0. Then every time you touch the brake pedal you will instantly apply maximum trailer braking regardless of speed or need.

There are too many other options that are proportional to driver demands and price competitive to justify a fully electronic brake controller. They just arent as safe as others.

It unfortunate there's no ROTFLMAO smiley, cause by now there's be a whole page.

I waved waved the BS flag before on some posts, but the Suburban out accelerating and out stopping a BMW 5 series has to take the cake. This is delusional to say the least. If this were remotely possible, I would think you'd see a lot more Subs out there competing in road racing, since all that has to happen to out-perform a BMW is some simple bolt-ons.

What happened was simple, the guy rear-ended you because he didn't see you were stopping in time, or possibly because his reflexes were poor. Reading anything else into that post above is pointless.

Personally, I find Suburbans to be about the WORST accelerating, braking and handling rigs ever mass-produced for the road. Simple laws of physics predict that an object which is top-heavy, weighs more than the biggest pickup truck, and comes with the same brakes and suspension cannot POSSIBLY out-perform a BMW. I don't care what was bolted onto it, short of a completely new suspension, brakes and drivetrain.

OBTW, this shows how high in performance my Sub's and all of my vehicles braking
materials & super tune are at. Scary on some, as have to watch my rear view more
than what is up ahead, as I can out-stop most out there...so modulate the braking
to both avoid hitting up front and having the guy behind rear end me

Why I have to have the trailer brakes lead my TV

No MC PSI based will initiate as soon as my setup

Maybe the Jordan can, but then straight line based on pedal travel, not actual
deceleration rates that an inertia sensor does

Also on the Jordan...can't be moved from vehicle to vehicle...okay if someone
doesn't need to, but I do, so why should I be forced to comply just because
someone else thinks theirs is 'best'...for them, not me

Again, my comments are my opinions and the 'why' I choose the P3 and
is the 'BEST' for me and my setup(s)

To the few PM's asking how in the world can I claim my Sub out stopped a BMW 5 series...

Wasn't trying, just out enjoying some mods and super tune (mainly cut back the
plugs, new wires, cleaned MAF, etc) one night out on the local boulevard

Nailing it from one stop sign to another and looking out for the cops... :)

Noticed a 'slight' bump or was it a bump???? The both cars on the side honked
and pointed behind me...got out and holy mackerel, a 5 series BMW was pucking
coolant behind me !!!!

Pulled over and the guy marveled that he could not keep up but was able to stop
in all of them...except that last stop lite...

Said just a nudge and instantly saw his hood buckle. Then steam coming out

'Slight' bump, as not even noticeable other than 'what the heck?'...was there
a small bump on the road? or what???

Here is the link to my post back then:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26392429/srt/pa/pging/1/page/5.cfm

Pixs







As for answering one of the posters on this thread...must be a someone I've
blocked, so not going to unblock'm to read what the heck they said

One PM said it was about my comments of the Jordan, well okay, what said was/is
my 'OPINION' and you folks don't have to take my word as gospel or absolute...it
is 'my' opinion, not yours or forced on anyone

Get the MaxBrake and let your foot control your brakes. To do otherwise is nonsense.

Personally. I like my Prodigy. It is simple. Set, and forget. I started with a Voyager, and went to the Prodigy. The Voyager did what it was supposed to do. The Prodigy just does it a lot smoother. No jerking in traffic, or backing.

I like the boost, that is does lead with the TT brakes, but if it doesn't feel any deceleration, it turns them loose instantly. Boost 1 is 255 of brakes, and b2 is 35, so it doesn't lock them, just gets them started.

The best thing. When coming to a stop, as you get slowed down, and less braking is needed, as decoration is less, it feels it, and only sends the needed amount of braking, where the timed controllers send more as long as you have the pedal down.

Our Voyager wouldn't release the brakes at a stop until the pedal was completely released, and so it jerked a lot. Now TV, and TT stop as one, no jerk, no push, no pull.

I couldn't imagine how anything could be better