tow strap or recover strap just in case

Being a recovering hard core off roader, I can offer you, from my experience what to do here.
1. The first thing you should do is have anchor points on your truck, front and rear that can take at least a 20k pull. These are sadly missing on many of our trucks. This is similar to gauging the strength of your winch capacity: 1.5 times the weight of your rig at a minimum. If you don't currently have anchor points, install them front and rear. I use a 3/4 inch, 20K loop (use no hooks), or my 16 ton Pintel (with safety pin) that goes into the rear Class V hitch. On the front, I've welded a pair of 26K pound cement mixer D rings. I also have a class V, 2 inch receiver hitch assy. welded to the Warn Winch bumper, just in case.

2. The strap should match and exceed the weight and pull rating of your vehicle times two. This means for virtually all of us over weight camper types a 30K pound strap with loop ends.
3. Chains are heavy to carry and cumbersome to use (and can be dangerous if they snap) if you try to match them to the load capacity to your truck camper.
4. I carry a variety of D rings with screw in bolts that can be used in a variety of situations. Also, i carry a 5 inch I.D. recovery hook with a safety catch that hooks onto my winch hook (also with safety catch) that will fit around most truck front axles or suspension parts in case the pull-ee has no tow hooks. The spring loaded safety latches are essential. I use no open ended hardware or just looping the tow strap over a ball hitch when trying to move a large heavy vehicle from its snare.
5. A heavy duty "Tree Saver"; essentially a short strap with loops on each end used by jeepers to save trees during winching and recovery operations.
6. A 1/2 inch logging cable called "cat choker". It has hardware that cinches up tight around logs that are to be dragged by a Caterpillar tractor. It will surround and secure just about any vehicle under part, no matter how large or small and doesn't weigh a lot.
7. sturdy cowhide gloves that can take abuse.
The final admonition is to work slowly and methodocally when trying to recover, unstick, or tow a vehicle of our size.
jefe

theoldwizard1 wrote:

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Modern pick ups all seem to come from the factory with solid recovery points in the front. The back, no so much. If you have a receiver, THIS is what you want:

D Ring Shackle Mount

EXCELLENT TIP !

If the loop on the strap is small enough, you can push it into the receiver and put the pin through it. I've done that before.

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Understand the difference between tow straps and recovery straps.

Recovery straps are intended to pull you free when you are stuck. They will be made from material that has a fair amount of stretch - anywhere from 20 to 33 percent.

Concur !
Recovery strap can handle a a large shock load (jerk). Most times a tow strap is adequate, just don't shock load it.

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Modern pick ups all seem to come from the factory with solid recovery points in the front. The back, no so much. If you have a receiver, THIS is what you want:

D Ring Shackle Mount

EXCELLENT TIP !

Grit dog wrote:
Harbor Fright tow straps (which also get used for lifting)?

There is a big difference, at least in price, between a tow strap and a lifting strap although I am sure less expensive towing straps are used for lifting as long as there is no OSHA inspector around !

I Believe theoldwizard1 is correct. Do not connect anything to a strap for recovery. Just for a short tow to safety it doesn't matter as much. A good strap is stronger than some may think. I use a six inch by 50 foot strap in the motor grader to pull loaded 160000 lbs semis(gravel trains) when stuck. The grader is 53000 lbs and I can give it two to three foot of slack and put the stretch to good use. Doesn't hurt to keep one with you.

Modern pick ups all seem to come from the factory with solid recovery points in the front. The back, no so much. If you have a receiver, THIS is what you want:

D Ring Shackle Mount

Carry a 30,000 lb recovery strap I bought from Cabelas's just in case. Fits behind the back seat.

Grit dog is on it. Maybe find a crane company and see what they have that they're about to throw away. Our policy was that the riggers inspected our chokers and would cut them in half before they were trashed. If you can find one that is Kevlar reinforced that would be a plus.

A true recovery strap is what we used to call a "snatch 'em strap". Like mentioned they are designed to be pulled snug and then allowed to contract a bit to help recovery. Priced a bit more than a tow strap.
Somebody throw a rock at that operator and wake him up. LOL

Harbor Fright tow straps (which also get used for lifting)? Sounds scary. But that’s just the crane operator and Construction manager in me cringing at China bomb rigging.
To OP, yes get a good 10-20klb rated nylon sling and a couple shackles.
If you know anyone in construction, they probably have some laying around that are serviceable but not legal for hoisting anymore for free99.

Chains work in a pinch and don’t bother me for towing, but I don’t like hem for recovery where the stresses can be much greater and less controllable than a tug down the road.